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Before writing this I scoured Comanche Club to see if any MJ owners have had this same issue. After much searching I've found some posts with similar problems, but not exact matches. In my instrument cluster, the LEFT Turn Signal Indicator sometimes works (and) sometimes it doesn't. It's quite finicky and annoying to not see blinking. Probably 40% of the time it illuminates, while 60% it remains dark. - Replaced both front end Turn Signal sockets & bulbs - Replaced both front end Side Marker sockets & bulbs - Replaced every bulb in the Tail Lights - Turn signal Flasher is NEW - All exterior lights function properly - All fuses are NEW and none are blown - TURN B/U fuse terminals feel nice and tight - Cleaned the fuse block with QD® Electronic Cleaner & Canned Air Nearly every Tail Light socket had serious corrosion (the old front Turn Signals did as well). Had to use precision pliers, PB Blaster and a heat gun to work out each of the broken bulbs. Was a real mess. All exterior bulbs now have dialectic grease. Below is what I thought of doing to get the indicator working properly: • Clean up instrument panel ground below the dash • Remove instrument cluster to clean and/or replace blinker light sockets & bulbs • Separate and clean out that wire connector behind the driver's headlight Am I on the right track to resolve this issue? Or would you guys recommend trying something else?

Hey guys first time posting love reading some of the write ups on here, but I seem to have a problem I haven't found a write up for yet. my hazards work, right turn signal works and up untill about a month ago the left turn signal works now it turns on and stays on any ideas? Thank you for y'alls time it's an 88 2wd with the aw4

I've started designing a new chassis wiring harness for my truck; partially in preparation for a tdi swap and partially because I've grown to really like wiring and electrical systems and just want it all fresh. I see there's a green fusible link feeding power to the switch and there's two outputs that feed the "run" position (one also feeds the "acc" position.) By counting the fuse ratings on the circuits fed by these two I come up with 32 amps on the "run only" output and almost 90 amps on the "run and acc" circuit! Am I crazy or is that really high?! The next question would be are these two portions of the switch rated to carry different amounts... I believe this is all GM stuff btw.

Hello everyone, I'm new here and as of yesterday a proud owner of an '89 Pioneer :) I've got a problem. My front blinkers don't work at all. Rear ones and rear Hazards are fine, but the front is dead. Bulbs are brand new as well. I can't imagine there being a separate fuse of any kind for the front? And the wiring and connections look good from what I can tell by taking out the assembly on the front. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Hey, so looking through the forums, everyone is very concerned with the master cylinder leaking onto the fuse box. Well, this happened to me. A year or so ago, i caught the leak and swapped out the master cylinder and even replaced the clutch because of a leak on that too. The leaking fluid has corroded some of the fuses, and as a result, my brake lights, and turn signals fail to work sometimes. a quick little tap and some finesse with the fuses makes everything work again, but the problem is becoming more and more reoccurring. so, whats the fix for this? new fuse box? where can i get one?

Hi All, I have a 1990 Jeep Comanche, 2WD 2.5L 4-Cylinder. Manual AX5 transmission. I've done some minor transmission / clutch work on it with plenty of help and support from the forum. Generally, it runs fine (now). But... Recently it's been doing two strange things: Losing power (shutting off) at low speeds, normally when jarred or bumped. It starts right back up when this happens. Most often, this can be seen when it's parked and I start it, then release the parking brake. When the parking brake jolts, the truck loses power. I have to re-start it. Also, on occasion, it loses power at low speeds (parking lots, mostly) often on bumpy terrain. It always starts right back up, but for the moment when the power steering fails, it's no fun. Lurching / losing speed while driving. When driving anywhere from around 30 to 55, it sometimes suddenly slows down a little -- just a mile an hour or two -- but very quickly, sort of lurching a bit. I can normally compensate by pressing the gas pedal down further, then it just sort of evens out. It never gains speed while lurching, only loses speed. And most often right around 40 - 45 mph. It feels like it's either losing power or gas suddenly -- but the truck doesn't shut off of anything. I recently (several weeks ago) lost power completely (truck wouldn't start) and found out that the main battery cable was corroded and much of the insulation had rotted off many of the cables. I got the truck running again with some electrical tape and a new clamp for one of the battery terminals. I imagine the above problems are related to electrical issues, but don't know how to troubleshoot them. The battery cable itself is very complex -- lots of wiring in there going who knows where. I also on occasion have some odd electrical issues -- namely the windshield wipers behaving unexpectedly and the turn signals staying on until fiddled with. Anyone have electrical experience on this or a similar truck? Do these all sound like electrical issues? I'd love any advice, tips, feedback or whatever. Thanks much, this forum has always been a huge help.

So, I'm not sure if this has been covered or done, but would it be fairly easy to rewire the turn signal/brake light combo such that the top segments of the tails light up exclusively as brake lights and the middle segments only light up when the turn signal/hazards are applied? I think this would be a cool idea and a way to stand out among other MJs. Also, I still plan to retain the dimmer parking light feature of both top and middle segments.