jpfrogger

THANKS PETE!

Thanks for the info. I will contact them. Anyone else with experience please feel free to comment. Tom

I am looking to buy one of these NP231 doubler kits. Does anyone here have any experience with one of these kits and their installation into a Comanche? I am also having trouble trying to find where to buy one of these kits. It appears that the DD Machine kit is the least expensive at around $399 but where do I find where to buy it. Anyone have any input? Thanks in advance, Tom

So if different color body injectors mean different flow rates I guess I should have changed them all out from the black bodied to the white bodied injectors. If it's not too much work can anyone verify what color their injectors are and what year MJ? It seems to run the same so far, I'll let everyone know if it behaves differently with the mixed injectors.

After replacing the o-rings on all 6 injectors I found the leak to be in the body of 2 of the injectors between the plastic section and metal section. My guess is that the expansion and contraction of the two dissimilar materials created a leakage path. Anyway, I had a spare intake with injectors and replaced the two leakers with a couple newer ones. Interestingly enough the 1989 motor had black plastic body injectors and the 1990 motor injectors had a white body. Additionally, the 1989 injectors used black o-rings at the top of the injector and brown ones at the bottom, whereas the 1990 model used the same o-rings top and bottom which is what the replacement GP Sorenson kit had in it. Hope this helps someone else out in the future. Look closely for the leakage path as it could very well be the body of the injector.

Ok, will do. I'll buy the o-ring kit first and replace those and not drive it meanwhile. I got lots of other vehicles to get me around so I don't torch it. Thanks

With the onset of cold weather I just noticed that my 2 front injectors on my 1989 4.0L MJ are leaking gas. Can this be fixed by replacing the o-rings or is it possible that they are leaking from the body of the injector and the injectors themselves need replacing? Thanks for any assistance.

Not custom axles. Just shorten and respline the originals, costs alot less. I think it's about $100 to shorten the housing and $75 or so to shorten both shafts. You are probably correct that it's too much effort for the Dodge 9.25" , but I would definately do it for a Semi-Float Dana 60 with stock 35 spline axleshafts!

From a previous post regarding Dakota axles a thought sprung to mind. Didn't the Dodge full size 1/2 ton trucks of the 70's and early 80's run a 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern and didn't some of them come with Chrysler's 9.25" rear axle? If so, it would'nt cost that much to narrow a rear axle housing and shafts thru Moser Engineering and they have to be cheap and easy to find under most any Ramcharger, Pickup or even a Dodge Van I would think. Any thoughts on using one of these as a donor axle?

I was thinking of custom shafts with 31, 33, or 35 spline shafts and the full spool to match, but no funds right now for the upgrades and they would have to be done later. I prefer to do all the axle work with it out and thought if I could get by with the Dana 35 for awhile it might be worth waiting on the 8.8" till it's complete. I just hate the thought of busting on the trail and limping it back to the trailer.

Ok, so I also have a 8.8" rear out of a Lincoln Mark VII LSC that is the same width as the stock axle with the same 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern. It has rear discs, 4.10 gears and a mini spool and c-clip eliminators. However, it only has the 28 spline shafts. Will it hold up to the 35" tires in the MJ without alot of rock-crawling, just general off-roading in mud, sand, etc.? Thanks

I've got a question regarding the survivability of the Dana 35 axle if it is used on an MJ that has been trimmed down on weight with 35" tires. Is the tire diameter the bigger factor or the weight on the axle with how long the Dana 35 will survive? The stock weight per literature for my MJ is approx. 3100 lbs. Now I have removed most of the weight that I can tolerate such as Doors, rear window, rear bumper, most of the interior, short exhaust, no tailgate, etc. to try to get the weight down to less than 2800 lbs with the 35" tires and wheels. Does anyone have a good sense of whether the Dana 35 will survive in a medium duty off road application, not alot of rock crawling. Thanks

I just bought a set of the Warrior Products doors and they are really nice. I have yet to install them, but I think they are worth the price as they look well made and the door latches look the same as Bestop uses on their tops.

For 92 and newer AX15 transmission with older pre-92 Jeep motors you have to use a pilot bushing for a 73 Jeep CJ5 with the 304V8 engine, at least that's what I found to fit when I replaced my Peugeot with the AX15 from a 97 Wrangler.

I am thinking about the 5.9L motor although I guess I could settle for the 5.2L. Will the AX15 hold up reasonably well behind these motors? Thanks

Ok, so I'm thinking a V8 would be nice to have in my wheeling MJ and I was wondering if a Chrysler V8 could be mated to the Jeep AX15 by using the bellhousing from a Dakota pickup that had the AX15 transmission. Of course I would need to create my own motor mounts and such, but I really want the sound of the V8 that you can't get with the 4.0L.

Novak has the adapter ring, 7/8" thick with different clocking positions. I am getting ready to do the swap to a NP208 Jeep t-case also on an AX15 trans and it is absolutely necessary to have a spacer for this application.

I am bidding on a MJ slider rear window and the box lists it as fitting a 1986 Comanche and I am wanting to make sure they are the same for all models from 1986 thru 1992. Does anyone know for sure that these are all the same size and fit or did they make a change to the back window when they did other changes for the 1987 models? Thanks in advance!

Thanks, that's what I needed to know and thought was necessary. Luckily, I've got a set of frame mounts headed my way. Now I think I will also need a radiator and necessary mounting parts. I've already got the motor, trans, transfer case, t/c mount, shifter, an engine wire harness from a 1990 XJ, and a new in-tank fuel pump for the MJ. Besides driveshafts, anyone have any ideas on what other parts I might need?

So does that mean that the frame mounts are the same and the motor mounts are different or vice versa? I just bought some frame mounts for the 4.0L so I hope they aren't the same as what I already have for the 4 cyl.

I changed mine over from the Peugeot to the AX15 and was able to keep the original clutch components, however, because I switched to 4wd I cannot comment on driveshaft length or splines. It isn't too difficult of a swap but get as many components as possible from the donor vehicle. Good luck, Tom

I got another Comanche and this one is a 1988 4 cyl but I'd like to do the swap to the 4.0L as I already have the motor and trans. The question is are the engine motor mounts different between the 4 and 6 cylinder, I am guessing that the 4 cyl mounts the motor farther back in the engine compartment. And if so, does anyone have a set that they don't' need and would let go cheap? How about the radiator mounting, is it just a matter of removing the 4 cyl metal mounting brackets to install the 6 cylinder radiator? Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks

I used an ax15 and 231 t/case out of a 97 wrangler in converting my 2wd to a 4wd. I had to use the wrangler slip yoke with the transfer case. I don't think the older style yoke will work and you definately need the external rubber boot that goes over the yoke to keep it lubricated. You most likely will need to modify the driveshaft length. Good luck!

I am installing an AX15 and NP231 out of a 1997 Wrangler and the old transfer case shifter parts from the AW4/NP242 do not work. I have tried to find the correct bracket for the AX15 but it is not available anywhere, all I can find is the Wrangler one. Anyway, after looking at the design of this Rube Goldberg design that Jeep created it seems it would be much simpler to make a simple swiveling lever that bolts to the boss on the side of the AX15 and directly connect that to the NP231 much like what you would see on a Ford NP208 style shifter. Has anyone done a custom transfer case shifter and if so how did you do it? Thanks in advance for any/all info. Tom

I just moved the rear brake line bracket from the frame to the bracket that mounts the proportioning valve. I simply unbolted it from the frame above and lowered it down to the two holes that hold the proportioning valve. The top hole in the bracket I drilled out slightly and then I drilled a new hole in the brake line bracket to match the bottom hole location of the prop. valve. It took 15 minutes and didn't cost a dime. It lowered the line at least 4-5 inches. Works for me. Good luck!