702_MJ

ah except the 80-82 and 86-91 are all driver drops, grand wagoneers. Why the space i don't know :nuts: But hey i could always get the honda passport rear dana and then the waggy front. Both around the same width, lugs match, kinda common to find in JY and they did it on JPmagazine to a TJ. I think a comanche would be no different. Or find a comanche rear dana 44, which aint easy. Or go fork out thousands of dollars for a dana 44 thats aftermarket :nuts:

yep reason your right. I tracked down the owners web site and found out he actually flipped the diff. Very surprised that some one would do that. http://www.bc4x4.com/ryeguy/truck/coman ... front_axle Well going to find some waggy 44's then. :thumbsup:

really they all are i read some are moved to the driverside cuz of a tcase combo some came with. I think it was the scout II. I saw another MJ on cardomain, he has scout dana 44's and the front is driver side, unless he some how fliped it or something but then why go through all that trouble. No matter ill just go find some grand wagoneer axles.

Maybe try to convince the guy to hook me up with the front too :brows: some were driver side drop . But eh its free just wondering if its worth my time to go pull it out of the bushes for it. Maybe i could sell it :D Ive been looking for an 80's waggy for the axles. I saw that junkyard axle swap in JPmagazine. Thats what they used. Honda passport/ Isuzu Rodeo rear and a late 80's waggy front axle. But i was just gonna say take it off one JY truck. But the scout is probly too narrow so oh well.

Ok buddy of mine just offered me a scout dana 44 rear if i help him move the scout out of the bushes. I know the WMS-WMS is 58". But would it work? Other wise I was gonna look into local JY for late 80's waggy dana's.

Yeah thats kinda what I'm tryn to say. The top terminal has very little power which is not normal and is the short. The headlight switch was disconnected all day so that can't be defective. The door switches have been disconnected from the dome lights for years so i don't even know if they are good :dunno: Maybe i should take off the fuse box, but thats alot of wires to mess with :ack:

Ok fixed one short and stumbled upon or caused this one. I blew the 10amp Dome fuse. And when the key was on i poked both sides with the test light and one has normal power and the top side has very dim power and trips a relay, when the key is off its normal one with power one without. Its hooked up to the pink wire and runs alot of lights in the cab. But see when i poke the pink wire on the glove box switch and the relay trips and the light is dimly on. :dunno: Also the clock has no memory when the key is off and starts out at 0:00. When i just took a break it was at 0:28 and will probly be the same when i go back. And when the key is just turned on you can faintly hear this high frequency whistle or something coming from the ECM. Whats goin on :help:

wow man that sux bad. Be thankful you don't live in hawaii. Auto theft is on the rise drastically. And the young punks who do it just don't take the stuff they want. For some reason they take the car, take everything they need, then go take it out in the middle of a lava flow or vacant forest and torch it to the ground. LOL wow am i glad i don't own a rice burner or their favorite toyota trucks :cheers: Knock on wood they never need jeep comanche parts. Course its and island so if something does happen they better prey to whatever higher power they believe in that they fly away and never come back

Ok since i noticed the clicking. I took out the fuse and i did the positive terminal to cable test and the light shines very dimly for a second then goes away. Then i put the fuse back in it turns on dimly. Note this is the TURN terminal in the fuse block. And thats the only drain i see. Maybe the battery has a dead cell. But i know those relays are not suppose to click when you test the TURN terminal. Any thoughts? :dunno:

Ok well i replaced my switch with my spare and i think it was shorted some where cuz when i turn on the key the parking lights don't come on any more. But i was just probing around the fuse box because the corner lenses don't have power and i want to fix that while its down. I probed the turn signal 20 amp fuse slots and the light was dim and i heard a click of a relay. Sounds like the same area under the dash of the one i replaced for the interior lights when you turn the lights on. LOL sorry for being a PITA on this topic but me and electrical just don't get along :dunce:

Ok besides a JY does anyone know where i can pick the harness up for the headlight switch. LOL taking this time to do some stuff ive been putting off for a while. :cheers: Thats it. All screwed up. Been like that for years though. Now another question is there a difference between the early switches and a 92' switch? Cuz i had a spare 92' switch and thats what i put in when the old switch shorted out. But i don't know if my dad switched the wiring so maybe that is the wrong switch, but its worked for 4 years :nuts:

k i got a question, why do power drains occur? :dunno: Course ill probly find out why when i fix the problem

took the light out of the glove box just to see since the bracket is broke. LOL went to start it and see if it would just try to turn over........nothing. Dead dead dead. I was really hoping to get lucky. Guess ill do that procedure that TNT posted. If it would stop raining :fs1: Its beautiful at work(note 4 miles away) but when i get home its just raining. 2 weeks straight I'm going insane :mad:

That actually helps alot! Now i kinda have an idea on what to do. Thanks :cheers:

LOL theres no lowes here on the island. Home Depot should work :D I havent had it tested YET. I was gonna check if the water level was good too. Running blind trying a process of elimination Course while she is down i got time to do things i havent had time to do course it would stop raining :fs1: hawaii aint that tropical at 4000ft elevation!

Ok so disconnected the glove box light. Jumped the truck and let it run for about 15 mins. Came back about an hour later and it got drained just enough to make me angry. Any one know where i can buy a good multimeter for a decent price?

I did the switch mod to the auxilary fan. Total cost about $20. I think it works great. I don't know how much CFM the aux fan puts out. But to me $300+ for a fan is kinda rediculous. http://www.projectxj.com/mods/stocker/fan.switch.htm

LOL i did the same mistake. Now i gotta find some 2 door seats. Like pete said cherokee 2 door, course you can make anything fit with some fabrication :thumbsup:

Sounds good. :cheers:

Yeah just pull it apart. Take the u joint closest to the transfer case out and it should come right out. Cuz its the part that is actually bolting the drive shaft to the transfer case yoke. :thumbsup:

i took apart my drive shaft today cuz there was this metal against metal ping every now and then. Thought the centering yoke went, but its ok, gonna replace anyway. It was the little plastice/rubber dust shield that is on the end of the drive shaft. It came off and the metal base was rattling around in the double cardan( is thats how its spelt) joint. is there a way to put it back on? JB weld or something to make sure it doesnt come off again. Can i run without it, thats probly a bad idea though.

hmm that could be, my bracket is broken. I was gonna go grab it from my bosses cherokee that he is scrapping but in hawaii it rains ALOT! so far 1 week straight :fs1: Any way I also just hooked my fan up to a switch and the switch goes to the fuse box in the BATT terminal. Maybe it could that, but i kinda doubt it cuz its hooked to a relay.

Hmm process of elimination it is then.

Ok well try to turn on the truck after sittn for a week. And it doesnt have enough juice. So theres gotta be something taking charge away from the battery when it sits. Any ideas where to start? here's whats been done, the battery is about 4 months old, but was dead on arival to hawaii. And now its dead. I noticed it always seemed a little under 12 volts on the volt guage in the morning sometimes. I also replaced the alternator 4 months back. The other battery was dead and i did that little light test if you hook the negative up to alternator wire and the light turns on the alternators bad or something. Any way went back to autozone and tried to exchange it(life time warranty on a re manufactured alternator) they gave me some song and dance that the voltage regulator is bad on my truck. LOL the voltage regulator is in the alt. what morons. But thats all ive done. I plan to buy replacement battery cables from jeepersandcreepers, or just make my own. Anyone got any ideas where this power sucker could be?

i looked at everything its all good. Maybe thats just the replacement map sensor it did come off a fourbanger, but I'm gonna keep lookn. idk my jeep needs to be tore down and built back up again. She is crazy :nuts: , now i just need to get a different DD.