summerinmaine

Thanks. I'm a very slow and methodical worker, and that's just what I thought was best. I don't mind taking an hour to do what could be done in 15 minutes, and I'm always reluctant to undo an old connection that remains sound, as once you do, you tend to start stressing other parts that have been in place for ages.

I've got a set of re-furb FIs coming, in hopes of getting even a slight bit better economy (got a long trip planned and even a 1 mpg improvement on hi-way will cover the cost of the replacements before I return home). Anyway, the Haynes says to disconnect the fuel lines from the rail, but as the hard lines are all connected to flexible hoses I don't see the need for that (and would rather not replace the disconnect o-rings/spacers unless necessary). So, is it necessary? To disconnect fuel lines from the rail that is? :D

Thanks.

Thanks for all the input. My understanding of the differences are: The engine fitted to a manual trans terminates with the flywheel, which has the ring gear on its circumference and a pilot bushing in the center to accept the nose of the mainshaft and keep things aligned. The clutch disk/pressure plate bolt to the flywheel, and the throwout bearing/slave cylinder (in the concentric version) attach to the trans. The engine fitted to an auto transmission terminates with a flexplate/ring gear which mounts the torque converter. So if I remove the flex plate assy, and replace it with my existing flywheel assy and a new pilot bushing, mount the disk/pressure plate, then I'm good. BTW the main reason for all of this is that the replacement throwout bearing/slave cylinder that I installed less than three months ago (from a NAPA clutch pack kit) has already crapped the bed. Rather that pull the trans/tc one more time (and do all the work by crawling around under the truck), and end up no better off than I thought I was three months ago, I want to work from the top, run a fresher engine (and thus actually IMPROVE things), while I use the original block as the basis for some kind of stroker. BTW one more question: Any thoughts on whether I can pull the engine without dismounting the hood. I don't mind removing it, but remounting/realigning it can be a PITA.

Thanks, but do you mean bolt on the flywheel? If not, then I'm confused.

I'm going to swap in a fresher engine temporarily while I do a few other repairs/refurbishments. My set-up 1987 4L w/BA-10/5. The replacement 1987 4L previously mated to an AT. Is there anything I need to do/retain/source to fit the engine from an AT equipped flywheel to a manual trans? Seems that once all the AT components are removed, then the flywheels should be identical. But IDK for sure. :???:

Would that I were in a position to do it different as well, but I don't have the time to figure out how to convert to an external or source and fit a better trans. Next time, maybe

In a 23 hour marathon conducted on the back streets of Tecate BCN in March, we replaced the clutch slave on my Heep with a part from a complete NAPA clutch kit. Had to pull the trans/TC (BA 10/5/231) again in April, up in trout country, because the bellhousing wasn't properly secured to the trans, and the slave was thoroughly inspected by a competent mechanic. Now, the slave just went TU . . . less than three frikken months later. So before I pull the trans/TC for the THIRD frikken time, anyone have any recommendations for a good quality cylinder? And yes, I am pissed. :mad:

Actually, vehicles <5 or so years old are exempt, as their PC systems must be backed with a 5+ year warranty. So any vehicle in model years 1976-2004 (or so) will all be subject to testing. If you're over any of the limits, and can't get it down, then AFAIK you are totally hosed. That's why I was so thrilled and reported my result with engine "cleaning." As Mark said, don't get on the "gross polluter" list, or the DMV will have you drawn and quartered, plus take your firstborn.

Yes. Back in 1998 or so, when they passed the emissions test legislation they exempted all vehicles over 25 years old (i.e.1973 and earlier). It was originally a rolling exemption, recalculated every two years. So 1975 and older got a Get Out of Jail Free Card as well. Then, as bureaucrats do, they realized they were leaving too much money on the table, so they terminated the rolling exemption portion of the law. So 1975 and earlier is the limit.

Nope. Apparently there is no redemption here. Once you've been declared An Enemy of the State, then rehabilitation is not an option.

PM answered.

I do Mark. PM me and let's get'er done. I'm leaving town in 10 days for a three month fishing expedition, so everything is rocket sled city these days. Jim

Here in Kalifornistan, we must pass a bi-annual emissions test to renew registration. If you fail, especially with a "polluter profile" vehicle, the DMV will make the rest of your life miserable. Two years ago, my HC emissions were borderline, and I thought it might be because, for some unknown reason, my MJ always runs cold (even with the right thermostat, etc. etc (see separate thread)). But as this next test loomed, I thought I would throw out my preconceptions. On my last Baja trip, in early November, I ran two cans of FI cleaner through in successive tanks full, and picked up a noticeable amount of power. Then, before the test in January, I ran a can of Sea Foam, then a fresh tank of fuel. My HC emissions result dropped to 50% of the previous result, and my NOx was lower as well. I suggested it to my daughter for her Cherokee, and she reported an immediate improvement in power and driveability as well. Color me happy!

Well, here's my report, such as it is: I set out to test every theory posted here, and anything else I could. Went out and turned the key; panel lights up. But I wasn't quite ready to hear the *click* again, so I thought I'd try the old test of turning on the headlights and look for a voltage drop when the starter is engaged. Lights on, just fine. Engage starter, and it fires right up! And . . . you guessed it . . . I haven't been able to get the symptoms to repeat in the last five days! IDK whether to be happy, or mad! :dunno:

Thanks for all the suggestions. Starting tomorrow, I'm going through everything one step at a time. I'll report back.

Solenoids or relays? Only one solenoid AFAIK. ps. I realize that they're sorta the same thing, since my Motocraft "solenoid" doesn't mechanically activate the starter.

Source? :brows:

Good idea Jim. Thanks.

Now I'm totally confused. I just went out and turned the lights on; they shined clear & bright at full power. So I figured WTF and tried the key; the panel lit up and the fuel pump charged the manifold. Turned the key and it fired right up without a problem, even with the headlamps on. Now I've got to figure out what could be causing an INTERMITTENT problem. Oh Boy! My Favorite!!!! :mad:

Yeah, I just played with it and the screen is back on but nothing from the main circuit. I fiddled with the cable clamps, in case the problem was between the terminal and the clamp, but I couldn't find any resistance anywhere. I'm trying to understand how a bad solenoid could cause the entire truck circuit to go dead. Maybe I should try the headlights next, since they're also not wired through the ignition switch. :dunno:

Just went outside and tried it. Everything came on, and I got one click, then nada in any position. But I'm think now that it isn't the switch, as I tried to turn on the TFT screen (wired independently) and no joy there either. So now I'm thinking maybe bad ground But the TFT screen, and a few other accessories, are wired through an auxiliary fuse panel directly to the battery terminals, both Pos and Neg. More searching is in order!

I was at the bank and when I came out, the Jeep wouldn't start, but the solenoid would click. Bad battery I think (Optima Red Top 34/78 of unknown history but at least four years old). Call the auto club, and he has a bit of trouble getting it jumped, and runs diagnostics on the battery: Result was even with full voltage (~12.6V), he says that the battery has no cranking amp capacity so it's toast. Gives me the data printout that documents his conclusion. Not being familiar with AGM spiral wound batteries, I figure it could die suddenly, so a new battery is in order. First though, I drive home and swap in a spare fully charged Red Top (another 34/78 that's about seven years old, and starts the M-B just fine). Nada, Jeep still won't start, and this time, after a click or two, turning the key won't even connect the circuitry. So I swap in an Odyssey 680 AGM plate-type, with far less cranking capacity) and the Jeep starts up just fine. Next morning (after leaving a TFT screen on overnight (dummy) Jeep won't start again, but solenoid clicks. I give it an overnight charge, and (at 12.6V) try to fire it up this morning. One click of the solenoid, then back to absolutely nothing each time I turn the key: No radio, no gauges, nothing. Even if the battery(s) were problematic for cranking, I can't figure anything that would cause the total blank symptom except a duff ignition switch. Am I missing something? Some kind of relay or fuse in the circuit? I'm poring through the Haynes manual, but haven't found anything so far. Switch is buried somewhere at the base of the steering column, right?

Well as I said, there was no extra money involved. So what is the risk that there would be a catastrophic failure? :???:

Local shop sold me a set of the Bosch platinum plugs for less than the copper plugs would have cost. They work fine. I'm not sure why folks say to stay away from them. :dunno: