Pseudosport

Hover conversion almost complete. While I was under there I pulled the pan to fix the leak then decided to do the rear main seal too. Seal wasn’t leaking but with my luck as soon as everything when back together it would start. Of course I instantly regretted it since it took half the day to remove the old one. Whatever, it’s done now and I installed a rust free pan.

It was above freezing today so worked on removing the XJ perches from the 8.25 and started tacking on new ones for the MJ. Hopefully I can MIG them on tomorrow and remove the shock mounts.

I had a fuel smell a few months back and couldn't find it right away since it came and went. Turns out the injectors were weeping where the plastic and metal body meet. With the heat of the engine the fuel was evaporating quickly but enough to make it smell. Finally noticed it when the engine was cold.

Didn’t take any pictures but I upgrade to a closed cooling system. Swap was pretty straight forward. I flushed everything and replaced the water pump while I was in there too. Only thing left is to add a read over flow bottle. For a few months now I’d smell fuel every now and then but could never find a leak. I checked the lines and tightened the clamps on the temp repair of the return line but found nothing. As it has gotten colder the smell became stronger and I finally found what’s wrong. 2 injectors are leaking where the plastic and metal body meets. As the truck was idling the rear injectors was leaking bad enough where fuel was now puddling on the intake then leaking onto the exhaust where it would then smoke and burn off. Since I’d like to avoid a fiery death I’ve parked the truck for now and pull all the injectors so I won’t try to drive it. Jeff gave me a bag of injectors labeled Jeep but it turns out they were a random set of 30lbs for the XJ-R and not stock remix ones from Dave’s old jeep like we hoped. I ended up ordering a set of Volvo 4 hole 19lbs injectors on eBay. Hopefully I can install them next weekend if its not too cold out or snowing. Since there was nothing else major I could fix at this time I decided to see how the new wheels and tires would look before the lift and D30 swap. At stock ride height the back would be close but but the front would rub everywhere which is what I expected.

Suspension components defiantly gets bunched up but it’s not too bad. It’s even tighter when you try to run turbo plumbing through it, lol. Since nothing has been hitting we have left things alone. Our logic was that if anything breaks we can find stock parts pretty easy then upgrade if needed. A straight tube set up should work and simplify things.

Cool build, I'd go with the 2wd setup for the weight savings alone. Here is a shot of the XJ-R's front axle to give you an idea of how much space there is. We did clearance the front axle but the suspension bottoms out before the axle would have hit the pan.

The torque was rated in pound-feet (lb-ft) :thumbsup:

We're running MS1 v3.0 on the 1995 turbo Cheorkee and I've also wired one up on a 4.7L stoker in a Comanche with a 1991 harness swap. Install was the same. Tricky part was finding a Ford 6 vane shutter wheel to bolt into a 91-93 distributor. wtq = wheel torque. Sorry for any confusion, might have just made up that abbreviation.

We've been running a boosted 4.0L for a few years now but we are only making 200 whp / 260 wtq at 7 psi from a 50 trim T3/T4. Nothing crazy but its still going strong at this power level. From what I've read the pistons, rod bolts, and engine management are the weak links. Haven't seen anyone bending rods yet.

Since my 135I is in the body shop after being forced off the road by a drunk driver I’m currently daily driving the Comanche. That has put the lift on hold for now but sped up some repairs I’ve been putting off. -Replaced turn signal switch so left turn signal works again and then now cancel -Replaced head light switch so dash light work again. -Replaced clutch master cylinder -Installed radio -Found out only one speaker worked so new ones are on order -Aimed headlights so they actually point at the road -Replaced blower motor and cleaned mouse poop from heater -Replaced stuck open thermostat Mainly I’ve been using it for house projects and didn’t care about the other stuff till I had to deal with it every day. In the mean time I ordered some 265/75R16 Cooper Discoverer A/T3 tires and reproduction Rubicon wheels

I'd be using an older fuel rail with the built in regulator and return line. It's not the best idea but its something I could make work in a few minutes with some spare parts. I hope to gether all the stuff needed for the Dakota swap since that looks like my best option but I like having a backup plan.

1. Forgot about the coil packs after 99. That would make things a little different. 2. I'm ok with the extra connectors. That would at least give me the option of swaping in an automatic later on. (bad knees but I like the manual) 3. Hmm, I could crush the regulator to reach 49 PSI. That would at lease let me test everything and move the Jeep around the yard if needed.

I’m planning on swapping a 1999 dash, cluster, and harness into my Comanche and have a few questions. I have the entire uncut interior harness from the 99 but not the engine harness. Can I use any engine harness from 1997-2001? My truck currently has a manual transmission. If I use the harness from an automatic XJ will I have any problems with the computer throwing codes or do I just use a computer from a manual with any harness? Can I use my stock fuel tank and pump till I find a Dakota tank? I’m ok with the dash gauge not working for now. I realize I’ll need to splice a bunch of wires for interior lights, fuel pump, NSS, etc. I just want to make sure I start with the correct harness. I’d like to find the engine harness from another 1999 but if any work that just makes my search easier.

Not mine. http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/pts/4007639331.html

Tracked down a 1998 XJ Dana 30 for the front yesterday. While I’m swapping axles might as well lift the truck while I’m at it right? I bought new spring perches to do a SOA with an 8.25 in the back and I picked up a set of 4.5” springs for the front. I might need a small spacer to balance things out in the front but I’ll have to see how it sits once I’m done. New axle is fairly rusty but its been coming apart ok. Already replaced the wheel joints and moved on to the ball joints. Found a good deal on some Spicers for $84.36 shipped for all 4. Still need to press them in, remove the rust, and give the axle a coat of paint.

Do you have a part number or application for the front shocks?

Car-Parts.com showed one for $100 from a 2WD 1990 Cherokee. Not sure how close this is to you. King George Auto Parts USA-VA(King-George) Request_Quote 1-800-847-4547 Also saw a few others for around $250 including an external slave one. Hope this helps.

Fixed the brake lights (enlarged the hole in the brake rod so bushing fit with no resistance) and a bunch of other small electrical problems and finally got the truck on the road.

Nice build, I’ll be watching this one for sure :thumbsup:

It's 4WD with a BA-10. I read they were having trouble with their clutch and raced the first day with the transmission stuck in 4th.

Those are TGTW Offroad Racing's Jeeps. I don't know much about their setup but here is a link to their Facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/TGTW-Offroad-Racing/290534901000710?group_id=0

Sure, here are some early pictures of the 2WD front axle. Note we have since reinforced the control arm brackets and boxed the arms. We did notch the axle because we though it might be too close to the oil pan with the Jeep lowered but it turns out we have plenty of room. Here is what we started with. I think these were from 2009 when we were first testing things out. Hotel parking lot turbo install in 2010 It's crude but it worked. For 2011 we sorted the suspension because the rear was lifting up an inside tire in turns and fixed the limited slip. Since the turbo kit needed some more work we removed it and autocrossed it NA for the rest of the year. We couldn't make it to the 2011 GRM Challenge but that gave us another year to sort things out. In 2012 we made a few changes but most noticeably was new paint, added an intercooler, bigger injectors, added some exhaust pieces, and spent more then 10 minutes tuning it. For more info check out our build thread http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1094822

Finally found one and the AX15 / NP231 are in.

New turn signal switch and ignition switch installed and column is back together. Cleaned the contacts in the connectors and got everything back in the truck and it starts up fine. Now on to getting the brake lights to work. They worked when they felt like it before the booster swap but now they only come on if I push the pedal down as hard as I can. I can feel the switch move like it should when pushing the pedal by hand so I’m guessing there might be a poor contact inside the brake switch. I knew I should have just replaced it when I had it out last. If you look at the pictures above you can even see how rusty it is.

Its been a while but I've messed with DSM Link, AEM, really old accel setup, and RomRaider.