JeepcoMJ

she's running and driving, but a little rough. tank has year and a half old fuel in it. mixed with high octane to run this tank through. the exhaust is sort of shotty...the xj uses 2 and 1/4 OD pipe, but the borla is 2 and 1/8. the tail pipe is/was rusted off, the muffler is pretty crappy, but the catalytic converter is OK. i'm running low on funds, so I will have to run it like that for the week. doing the body work on everything but the floor tomorrow, detailing the interior, plugging the leaking tire, and putting the center console back in. pretty happy with it...for now

well, last night I had a much deserved heavy drinking night...followed by a late return to my house, drunk, and I installed the motor/trans while drunk, got them hooked up, and got it running. now it's time to go back outside and check over all of the bolts in case I didn't tighten them, and then to do up the exhaust.

The crank sensor would cause this issue if you didn't tie it up properly and it is contacting the exhaust manifold

Mixing torque converters will almost always result in transmission failure. The parts reader to each other and become a matched pair. Even putting a new torque converter on there is a significantly higher chance that they will fail.

plug and play. only difference that could possibly be there is the torque converter bolt hole locations on the flex plate...pretty simple fix if you lay them back to back, and re-drill the holes in proper locations. remember to measure out and drill them in such a way that the flex plate will still be balanced out as best as possible, though. I *think* that they are the same torque converter bolt holes, but just in case, i wanted to give you that info.

well, motor did not get color matched...neighbor was not feeling well so he didn't do it. oh well...don't have time to wait, so I got it all dressed back up, put the new flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch, and pressure plate back on the motor. mated the engine back to the trans, and it's *almost* ready to drop in. I'm putting my sealed output np242 on the trans, for the simple fact that this is a daily driver, and it has every option except for sun/moon roof, overhead console, leather, or power seats. basically it has every creature comfort that I want, except for the overhead console. may as well put the np242 in it just to one up the factory. I'll have it running and driving tomorrow night :D

Yep, touching up the whole jeep, and color matching the new motor....new motor is pretty built and re sealed with a mild cam borla newer intake all seals and is bored .030. Just acid washed the trans, too

and no, the optima didn't come with it...the battery in it was the original from when the PO bought it... those are pics from yesterday...today I seperated the engine/trans, undressed the motor, pulled the bellhousing off the trans, and pulled the flywheel and clutch from the engine. taking all of those parts in to work to acid wash them tomorrow.

Got three motor and trans out last night, went smooth. Neighbor is painting and blending some dings and small trust repair today as well as color matching the new motor to the body while I prep the trans and repair the floor

Lol thanks guys....this is easy rust, and the skids is in. the cargo area

oh. rear defrost/rear wipe, heated mirrors. all for $625

picked this up today. 1999 cherokee classic TWO DOOR! factory CD/tape deck a/c power windows power locks tilt cruise keyless entry fog lamps front and rear tow hooks factory skid package (front, tcase, gas tank) up-country coil package (1" over stock, no rear sway bar) color match trim package 4.0 5 SPEED! jeep has 250,000 miles on it, and driver's floor rot engine has a wrist pin knock (I've isolated it down to wrist pin, number 4 or 5, once I got the hood open....special thanks to PeteM on that one!) solution...i'm building a stroker for my '87 comanche, and this motor will be the base for the stroker. going to put my .030 bore mopar reman with 2001 intake, 62mm Tb, neon srt4 injectors, borla header in this jeep, and build the motor up for my other one. best part...I purchased it from the original owner. came with the window sticker, purchase reciept, build specs, all repair reciepts, etc. anyways, pics. need it done by the weekend...crown vic is about to lose it's trans, so it's gotta go. little bit of rust clean up and repair, it will be a fun little DD. -Pat

lol. all i'm saying is that if you have something worth 700,000 u.s. dollars, you can surely afford insurance on it...if you can't, then you probably should sell it.

...and this is why you don't drop insurance on something that's worth $700k, much less $1k. all it takes is one idiot to cost some you a ton of cash...and unfortunately, in that type of situation....it's your own damned fault. You are right. A guy puts his own property in storage and another guy takes it on a joy ride. It wasnt the pilot's fault. I keep forgetting this is 2011 and we are not responsible for our own actions. It is always someone else's faut. And yes I don't like obama's policies only because he is black. I will get it figured out someday. There is a lot of new stuff to remember :wall: simply stating....you have that much invested in something, you can afford to insure it. the pilot is at fault for wrecking it. the owner is at fault for removing insurance.

...and this is why you don't drop insurance on something that's worth $700k, much less $1k. all it takes is one idiot to cost some you a ton of cash...and unfortunately, in that type of situation....it's your own damned fault.

ended up having a bad lifter and cam lobe. used cam with matching lifters from a '96 block with bad pistons, runs great. sold for $1500, all parts for work paid for by new owner, he supplied the beer. sold cheap i know...but it was a friend in need, and I profited $900 even with around 16 hours into the project, half of which were me drinking beer anyways. just bought another one today... http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/2394896406.html pics tomorrow.

by reading through this post for the post that geonovast put on here telling you how many teeth are on the ring gear and on the pinion gear. then by taking the diff cover off and counting them.

using a used gear set in a DD is a BAD idea. you need to run the wear pattern of the gears BEFORE you remove the "good" gears from their housing, using the appropriate gear paste. then, upon install, you need to match them PERFECTLY via shimming appropriately. even then, they will never run the same, and chances are they will vibrate, and detonate. using used gear sets is almost explicitly a "band-aid" or off-road only fix. above that...."no one is sure what gears they are...." is a piss poor excuse to not make the hour drive to inspect an axle, and determine that 3.55 is the most common gear set out there...so it's a good 90% certainty that the axle will have the proper gears, and it will be easier to swap the whole axle than it will be to put used gears in. now get off your butt and help us help you. nothing worse than someone who wants help, but isn't willing to help the helpers to help yourself. -Pat

Ur What about the rest of the wheels? wheels are the same thing as rims... if you mean tires...i don't really mind low pro tires on bigger rims. just not THOSE rims. actually, not many. stock jeep 16's or 17's would be nice... even if you have to run wheel adapters. Nope, rims are a part of the wheels. They are the "rim" of the wheel. now you're just being difficult. we call rims wheels in the semi industry, and tires are tires. Don't many semi wheels have a two piece wheel with a Rim and a wheel? pretty much just mack tractors, and old ones at that

lol. it's not a problem, and i'm not taking it like you're brushing me off. I'm just coming from my experience....it's real hard for me to justify doing any project if it's temporary. i'm sick of "temporary"....won't lift a finger to work on something unless i'm doing it right, or it MUST be done in order to drive it.

What about the rest of the wheels? wheels are the same thing as rims... if you mean tires...i don't really mind low pro tires on bigger rims. just not THOSE rims. actually, not many. stock jeep 16's or 17's would be nice... even if you have to run wheel adapters. Nope, rims are a part of the wheels. They are the "rim" of the wheel. now you're just being difficult. we call rims wheels in the semi industry, and tires are tires.

What about the rest of the wheels? wheels are the same thing as rims... if you mean tires...i don't really mind low pro tires on bigger rims. just not THOSE rims. actually, not many. stock jeep 16's or 17's would be nice... even if you have to run wheel adapters.

other than the rims, I actually like it.

sorry, i meant '87-95. even up to 2001 the blocks were more or less the same, but a lack of knock sensor after '91, and the different cam in '96+... the head will bolt up to the renix block. leave the knock sensor in the block as a plug. I strongly suggest against two things...paying to have your head re-done yourself when you can buy a valve spring compressor, lapping tool, and seals for much less, and have done the work....and putting a freshened head on a non-freshened motor. you don't have to do the rings if the cylinders look good, but I'd inspect every last inch of that block. -Pat

yes, you can. the blocks are more or less the same from '97-95, using the same cam, crank, pistons, rods, rings. the difference is the head, and thermostat housing...plus the renix block has a knock sensor. you can do what you are suggesting...but were I you, I'd rebuild the head (lap valves, valve seals) and tear down the block to put new rings and bearings in it at minimum. now is the time to do it. -Pat