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Everything posted by Knucklehead97
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Found out today that theres alot of air coming out from around my windshield when I'm driving. Enough to easily feel and hear with my hand. I was thinking of ripping off at least the bottom part of that metal stripping around the windshield and caulking the groove up underneath the windshield, then putting the stripping back on. What do you guys think, good or bad idea? And has anyone ever done it and can tell me how to get the metal stripping off and back on, cause my biggest fear is not being able to get it back on. Also my door windows lost the seals on the back of the 1/4 window (where the bigger piece of glass slides in when you're rolling up the window.) and the outer wipes on the windows are dry rotted and gone, do they still sell these? Sorry if my post was a little confusing, hard to describe what I'm talking about haha Thanks
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Brothers Dw Is Back
Knucklehead97 replied to Knucklehead97's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
His tires are 265/70r17 which comes out to around 32/11/17 in standard terms. I don't think the airsoft pellet balancing would be as effectice as the Hunter balancer. On other terms, could someone tell me why after my balljoint change (did them last weekend) my trucks steering feels tight and when I hit a bump it shakes some and makes the truck veer some to the side? The wobble I had before, destroyed my new front tires, so I'm moving them to the back amd the backs to the front tomorrow after I change the shocks (front drivers side is a b**** to get to under that brake booster!) I haven't had it aligned at all even though I changed the tie rod ends, track-bar, and steering stabilizer in March. Thanks guys -
Brothers Dw Is Back
Knucklehead97 replied to Knucklehead97's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I'll ask around. I bet the Jeep/Dodge/Chysler dealer around here, has one. -
Slow Start And Running Rich
Knucklehead97 replied to AeroNautical's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
My truck was running rich and the o2 sensor failed the tests (very easy test to do) so I changed it and it no longer runs rich, or backfires, and I get around 20 mpg. I would change it -
Brothers Dw Is Back
Knucklehead97 replied to Knucklehead97's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Hornbrod; I have no idea. I didn't know there was a difference in balancers and all that which work better with bigger tires. Carnuck; how does that help? I've never heard of someone doing that. -
Brothers Dw Is Back
Knucklehead97 replied to Knucklehead97's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I checked and they put weights on the inside and out. One tire have equally sized weights but one was a tiny bit bent. And the other side had a much smaller weight on the inside than it did on the outside. -
Brothers Dw Is Back
Knucklehead97 replied to Knucklehead97's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Definitely will have it checked when we can. Is there anything I can do from my own yard to check it or fix it? And could that ome missing lug nut have any effect on balance? -
Brothers Dw Is Back
Knucklehead97 replied to Knucklehead97's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
We had the tires balanced by the shop when he bought them. Could they have done it wrong? -
After we thought it was finally gone, he hit a bump and his XJ went crazy. We've had DW problems with his Jeep XJ since the week we bought it in 2011. We started by paying a shop (bad idea. Was way overcharged) to change the tie rod ends, track bar ends, lower control arm bushings, and the upper control arms bushing (at frame. We changed the axle bushings ourselves). After that didn't fix it, we adjusted caster and got an alignment, still didn't work. So we did the infamous ball joint change and hey! That worked! Until now... the ball joint change was this time last year. He got a set of used tires a couple months ago and it didn't wobble until today. The tire balancers seem a little off and he only has 4 lug nuts per tire, so I think that might be a problem. Otherwise during the ball joint change we lost one of the lower joints nuts (the passenger side) so we put the old on but we couldn't get the cotter pin in because the nut was weird with the new joint. And now that I looked underneath, the nut has backed off and seems to be about 1/8" off of the steering knuckle. His steering stabilizer is also shot I think. I was going to tighten down every bolt to spec, add a 5th lug nut to all rims, and maybe let him borrow my steering stabilizer. His truck is lifted about 4-5" with about 32" tires, if that helps. Thanks
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Tested almost all the sensors today, finally. Except for the CTS and EGR valve. Everything passed good except for the o2 sensor. It failed drastically. Didn't increse or decrease from 4.814 almost ever. It maybe moved a click every 3 minutes. So I picked one up and am installimg tomorrow/seeing what my gas milweage is. Hopefully it'll be decently better. Thanks guys.
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Great! Thanks guys.
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Well thats alot easier than I expected. He has a lift and the axle is rotated to correct driveshaft angle, its not much, but will it effect anything?
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Major Oil Leak, Burning On The Crosspipe. Help!!!
Knucklehead97 replied to Dedaw's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Anywhere i should be careful hitting with a powerwasher in the engine compartment? Don't wanna break anything haha -
So I looked up under my brothers truck and I noticed a wet spot on the differential cover. And theres been a weird whirring coming from the rear at certain speeds/rpms. So I'm thinking he's low on differential fluid and that its leaking out of the weird plug on the differential cover. How do I get more fluid in? What fluid do i use? And how can I seal that plug?
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Major Oil Leak, Burning On The Crosspipe. Help!!!
Knucklehead97 replied to Dedaw's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I don't mean to thread jack. Just was wondering. You said "the pipe is back away from the RMS area" by that do you mean that a RMS leak won't drip on the cross pipe? I've had a leak on the cross pipe for awhile and havn't started my search for where its coming from, but was hoping it wasn't the RMS. Use THIS to diagnose your oil leaks. I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF. Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it? A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat. Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons. First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$#!& flows downhill". Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first. Revised 02-26-2013 thats what I've been doing. I was just hoping maybe if its dripping on the crosspipe then it could be said that it isn't the RMS. Its the one possible leak point that I don't want to have to fix. -
Major Oil Leak, Burning On The Crosspipe. Help!!!
Knucklehead97 replied to Dedaw's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I don't mean to thread jack. Just was wondering. You said "the pipe is back away from the RMS area" by that do you mean that a RMS leak won't drip on the cross pipe? I've had a leak on the cross pipe for awhile and havn't started my search for where its coming from, but was hoping it wasn't the RMS. -
I'm going to double check the miles whe I can find a gps or something
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The second option looks closest to mine. I checked more into the big hole with no line going to it, there was a connectector for the small line that wasn't going anywhere. But the end was broken off in the small line. The small lines seem to run to places where one turns into a blue line and connects with some very colorful red, yellow, and green lines andthen runs down to the front diff CAD it seems. The other line runs up and goes into the firewal it seems with a white line. And the white line goes to a vacuum motor thing (i'm guessing?) Which is hanging on one of those massive vacuum lines going towards the front of the engine. That second line, i have no idea what its running to which is why I said vacuum motor looking thingy.
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Since I couldn't get a GPS app on my phome and don't know anyone with a gps. I set a trail from my house to my sisters on mapquest and it said it's 6.11 miles from my house to hers. In my truck it said almost exactly 6. So at most I'm off by .2 miles. I'm working on figuring out this vacuum bottle. And testing all the sensors. I'm going to order a throttle body gasket and take it off and clean it when I can. If anyone had a vacuum bottle diagram to help with where the extra hoses go, that'd be great. Thanks
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coming from thevacuum bottle in the passenger side of the front bumper; I have it seems 4 or 5 lines. Three of which are connected. One smalll one that I have NO idea where it goes. And theres a decent sized hole I'm the canister that looks like theres supposed to be a line going to it. Either way, somethings missing
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Just checked my vacuum bottle. Alot of lines seem to be missing.
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I'll practice my driving habits and everything :D and I'mrunning a sensor test sometime, checking my spark plugs again to just BE SURE, and I'm checking my fuel lines and the other vacuum lines/thevacuum bottle. My truck was in a smal frontal collision before I owned it. I think the vacuum bottle might have been cracked or something
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It just has a smell when the trucks running. Other than burnt oil, that is. I already removed my cat convertor and I'm considering just straight piping completely. And I really didn't expect the 30" tires to change that much, but when talking about gearing it does make sense. The PO had rear tires already on it that were brand new, so I just bought to match. These trucks sure did come with small tires... even the 30" ones look to small on stock to me. And my driving habits are honestly terrible. Considering I'm new to manuals, I hsve to give it a good bit of gas starting up hills.
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Just replaced plugs and wires with Champion Coppers and Autolite wires. I also got a cap and rotor but was scared to because I'm a little questionable on how to.. any tips? Now that the plugs and wires are changed, my idle is higher, why? Also I brought the plugs to autozone and they said they looked like my engine is running fine. I compared them to the chart and it seems so. But still I feel that I am running rich... I got a fuel injector cleaner that I'm gonna add next fill up.
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I'll be pulling the spark plugs and checking them asap. And soon will be changing them just to do it. And hopefully my phone can run a good gps app. Ah the joy of having a MJ :D
