Optimaldave

I wouldn't mind seeing this. Sounds a lot better than what some of us use :yes: Made a new thread see: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=35847 Dave

So, as many have discovered, bench seated MJ's have a lack of cupholdability... Really not a good plan for those of us with an admitted coffee addiction :cheers: This was my solution made of parts I already had around: Cost to me: $0 Cost with nothing to start: $10ish Labour: Maybe half an hour including fighting with the rusted bolts to get the cup-holder off the bike... Parts: Cup holder Butterfly Drywall Anchor 4" or so of threaded rod or a screw matching the thread on the butterfly anchor. (I used some heatshrink on the end to tell me when I had backed out the rod before I would lose the anchor, if you had a screw instead, put it head side into the dash) 2 wing-nuts (including yourself) (no, the notes on TPS adjustment are not required, though a good check anyways) Warnings: Hold onto the anchor and rod at all times during install. I managed not to lose the anchor into the dash by holding it taught at almost all times, but when doing this just take care that you hold it out from falling in as I don't know where it would go or how to fish it out. Thread the rod through the anchor so all you have left sticking out from the vent is the same length as the wings on the wing nut and gently put on the cup holder, then the wing nut and tighten it all down. This will mean that you don't have a rod gouging all your cups and poking holes in anything paper. I have had paper cups in there with no issue, but if you smush one in expect to fill your tranny with coffee.. Step one: Remove vent grate: (I used the one center in the cab, I would think the two side vents may also work but I have not tested it) See the pin, one of each end, you want to contract them to remove the grate from the dash And done... Step two: Install the anchor: This is the important part, you want to end up with the anchor like this where it is grabbing onto the back of the dash instead of the back of the vent. This way it is a strong mount vs just ripping out the vent when you go over a nice bump with a full cup. So, squeeze the butterfly anchor together and put it through the vent from the back on the bottom opening such that is is held together by the sides of the vent. (the vent has a top and bottom, says top on the top) Now carefully insert the vent back into the dash, slowly push the anchor into the dash until you hear/feel/see the "wings" snap out behind the dash. From here on hold the anchor taught to the dash and carefully thread the rod through the anchor so all you have left sticking out from the vent is the same length as the wings on the wing nut, gently put on the cup holder, then the wing nut, and tighten it all down. Finished Final Notes: Bad angle but once again, the threaded rod and wing nut are shorter that the back rail of my cup holder so they do not contact the cup. Could use any nut vs a wing-nut but I like not needing tools to take it off, and there is not a high torque needed anyways. Cheers Dave

I just got a bicycle cup holder, put a 4 odd inch threaded rod and a drywall anchor through it and then through one of the vents. Let the anchor expand behind the two sides of the hole in the dash for the vent, pull it taught, tighten the screw and it is rock solid. Only have on in the center of the cab but I can add another passenger side if I wanted too. Cost me nothing but I already had the cup holder on an old bike so may cost $10 or so to buy one if needed. Can take pics/mini write-up if you all are interested. Cheers Dave

Oh yeah, She can be a right pain in the arse sometimes but whenever I drive I realize I wouldn't want any other truck...

In my area they used to have some gas stations with tanks above ground too. We'd always buy gas from them in the am during the winter and during the summer we'd buy gas at the stations with in-ground tanks. With the in ground tanks the temperature is pretty constant so I doubt there would be any noticeable differences from am/pm purchases. All the pumps here say that the gas is corrected to 15 degrees (celsius) all year round so it makes no difference to us what time of day or temp beyond the winter vs summer blends

Wow... That sounds kinda special. I too live in BC and have never had a prob with a pre-auth if you pay inside. And no company would be able to deny you a refund if the service or goods were not exchanged as far as I know. I did get told off by a pump jockey once though as richmond is a full service city by law so I pissed a guy off by filling my own tank as I didn't remember that I couldnt pump my gas...

Check the grounds and sockets, bad grounds can cause back feeding in the circuit and have the indicators on with the headlights so it may be your issue. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=26001 Cheers Dave

^^^^ correct No fuse, but uses a fusible link at the starter relay. Center relay, though in my 88 pioneer there were only 3. Have you tested for power or just guessing it is electrical? If so where is it losing power or is the whole circuit dead? Can you hear the pump prime when you turn the key to "on"? Swapped the relays or jumped from the battery + to the + on the pump relay socket? I've just gone through replacing my pump and some electrical diagnosis with mine too... Cheers Dave

I know when I did mine a few days ago there were two pumps depending on TBI or MPI setups. Walbro and Bosch are listed for the 4.0 (mine is 88) but the Bosch is the correct one for MPI which I believe most of ours are. Though the two were very different as the Walbro uses a different mount and filter system. The new (correct) bosch was smaller than the original too and looked much like yours, though a little bit different. I took a pic of the Walbro next to the OEM before returning it (wrong on the left, original on the right)

For commercial beers Guinness (when poured properly, not butchered by an untrained server at a sports bar) Alexander Keiths Local Vancouver: Dead frog, Granville Island hefeweizen and the seasonal brews And I love a Brewery called Black Sheep in my familys home of Masham, England. The Golden Sheep, Ale, and Holy GRAil are amazing, though tough to come by this side of the water.

Yes, but I should think the dizzy being able to shake laterally and maybe smacking the block would cause the rotor to have issues making the correct contacts/spinning properly. Uh, yeah!! Just wondering if the dizzy's indexing got screwed up if someone had already sawed off the tab. Could you do me a favor? Lsmurphy has a website and is currently posting all my write-ups on it. Could you see how well they open up for you? I'm having issues but I think it's because I'm the author and Word goes nuts when I try to open them. They're under Help and Resources http://jeepseekers.com/ Tab is still there, bolt just worked loose and was on the last thread :P Site works great on my iPhone at least. Awesome resource cruiser! Cheers Dave

Yes, but I should think the dizzy being able to shake laterally and maybe smacking the block would cause the rotor to have issues making the correct contacts/spinning properly.

Well, looks like I'm a complete knob... Got the new pump in (much easier with the original lock ring by the way, the new replacements are a bit larger and much harder to install) test drive still had the issue, so upon contemplating how quickly I can run vs how quick a rag stuffed in the tank can burn... I decided to check everything again. Checked for leaks, no leaks, checked for sensors unplugged/busted, all checked out fine, Checked the dizzy, still rattles.... Wait a sec... Dizzy mount bolt is loose... Torqued, test driven, head slapped.... So for all having this issue in future, maybe check the dizzy isn't rattling against the block, or end up with a new pump, to fix a loose bolt... Beer still tasted good though... Dave

Tested every sensor I hadn't tested before, all passed, so I got a fuel pump and dug into her. Real PITA getting that lock ring off, and after the battle of getting her out... I got the wrong fuel pump :wall: Put it all together again, drove back to the parts store, got the correct one ordered and now I get to wait until tomorrow... on a plus side I got the speedo cable routed correctly and the exhaust hanger tightened down... Man did my beer taste wonderful today :roll: Dave

Yeah, I too still somewhat think it is the hose or the strainer but I need all the parts before pulling the unit out so I suppose I will change the whole deal anyways. Will check ground at the pump first though. Already upgraded the ground system and cleaned the ground at the taillight too though. Cheers Dave

I've actually been running a jumper since I first had the issue seeing as running at idle and WOT leans to it being the resistor. Apparently not though. Cheers Dave

ok. some more diagnosis. Took a video of the pressure tester while driving and causing the sputter start of video - primed/setting up camera 28psi 18 - startup 39 while cranking, drops to 28,, 30 while idle 26 1st gear driving downhill 29 shift to 2nd, pressure drops to 25ish 48 start sputter 32/33psi 57 end sputter 1:08 start up hill 32 psi 1:13 shift/lug going uphill swing 32-28-36 psi 1:18 start sputter stable 31-33 1:48 pull into drive to turn around 2:05 start downhill engine brake 2:38 clutch in around turn 2:58 start sputter 3:10 clutch in downhill (video pretty much done) For those who don't watch the vid. The skinny is: Pressure drops to 26-29PSI when clutch let out from throttle to shift/stop, idles around 29PSI, most uphill load at 30-34PSI, 26PSI while downhill engine braking, Tested FPR again Line Disconnected, idle, 38/39PSI Line Connected, idle, 29 PSI Clamping pressure on return line, pressure drops steadily, faster with FPR connected but always dies out, never goes above 39PSI Also tested EGR Valve today: Opening test. Failed, I could never see the pintle even flicker Closing test. Passed, soon as I pull on the pintle the engine idle shoots down/stalls if held for too long. Also tried driving with the vac line plugged: No difference So seeing as my pump cannot over come pressure on the return line, the FPR seems to be doing it's job, and the EGR has failed on the always closed side. I think tomorrow I am going to bite the bullet and change the pump/strainer ($168 here in Canada, even with an awesome discount) Here's hoping that's my issue as that's all the money I have left :P any other thoughts or tests would be great Cheers Dave

Ok, So I did some more diagnosis today. Got a fuel pressure tester. Looks like I'm at 28/29 at with FPR and 38/39 with FPR disconnected Small vid of the test, bumps up quick under hard throttle but only drops to the high 20's under quick closed throttle throttle. Could being a few PSI low be causing my issues? Fuel pump sounded louder when I first had the issue but I am not sure if this was just due to feeling that it was an issue or actually louder than before. Any suggestions for how to test while driving as I don't have an issue at idle anyways? Taking off the hood seemed my best bet but I have no doubt it is a PITA working solo. I would love to see the pressure when she is stumbling though. Also noticed my CTS (assuming it is the CTS) has been moved to the water pump. Isn't that a 92+ feature? Still has a closed loop cooling system. Thought the O2 sensor looked wierd, but I guess it is a cheap replacement. Could it be causing my issues? ran no tests on it today. Noticed my Knock Sensor has been destroyed. Not sure if I did it today while working or if it happened before. Would having this disconected make it run like piss? Should I replace it, jump the plug, or just leave the plug disconnected? Next day off I'm going to try dumping all the gas just for the hell of it. Though it is fresh gas from a large station, and even has a bottle of STP Fuel Injector Cleaner in the tank as I noticed a tiny stumble while near empty so I threw it in when I re-filled. Should also make accessing the pump easier if needed. Looked at the CPS and it has been wired straight to the ECU but no hole drilled in the firewall which makes me think it was a home job vs a dealer fix. Also didn't test but has never had a starting issue so I will think it is fine. Any input is appreciated. Cheers Dave

Manifold bolts have been checked. Didn't look at CPS as I thought a failing cps would give a bad or intermittent no start? Having issues getting a pressure tester as they are $50+ here in Vancouver so I really don't want to buy one... So I think tomorrow I may pull the pump to clean/replace the sock as if the pump is bad it'll help anyways. and if sock has no effect then I will suck it up and buy a pressure tester. Will also check the CPS tomorrow if sock has no effect. Cheers Dave

Do you mean replace the whole socket assembly, or just the bulb? Same problem as jasongreg, to a T, and I've been trying to figure out the solution for about a week. :fs1: Pull the bulb and take a look. I replaced the whole socket as it costed $5/6 and took maybe 15 minutes to pull the old one and solder in the new. But my socket was visually corroded pretty badly.

Look at the lights at night. I had the same issue and noticed when my headlights were flicked on the left indicator turned on at slight power too. Replaced the blinker socket and the problem was solved.

Hi all, So my truck has a sputtering/mis-fire issue that I've been diagnosing and am coming to an end of ideas. It is only when under load (I can rev and hold in neutral with no issue) it sputters and stumbles from 1/4 throttle to half or 3/4 throttle. If I give it very light throttle, or almost full throttle it has no issues but anywhere inbetween is really rough. Sounds/feels like a miss with a slight backfire. Wierd backfire though as it sounds like someone shooting a marble at sheet metal vs the usual loud "gunshot" backfire. Also has the gurgle/pop of a rich system sometimes which is throwing me off as the plugs were very white (may have been white as they were changed after starving the truck to bleed fuel pressure so I could change the fuel filter so I will check new plugs again in future under regular conditions) During my diagnosis/tests today it kept changing from very bad to almost no issue completely randomly. This issue also came on kind of slowly. About 2 weeks ago it had a bad stumble on a cold morning but I was very low on gas so I figured it was that as it went away and didn't happen again. Beginning of the week I noticed a very light stumble when cold going uphill in the morning. About 3 days ago it had a light stumble that stayed through out full temp range. Yesterday and today have been really bad and almost undriveable. Have to drive like a grandma or a mad man as I only seem to have no throttle or full throttle :P Tests/diagnosis done: (In history the system ground refresh has been done) TPS ground was way off (9.2 ohms to ground) so I bypassed the C101, TPS was off (4.87 input, 0.74 output) so was adjusted and re-tested (4.87 input voltage, 0.82 output, no dead spots) Changed plugs (were very white tipped but I changed them after starving the truck to relive pressure to change the fuel filter so I will have to check the new ones, Had NGK FR5 now Autolites) Changed fuel filter Checked for vac leak with contact cleaner Checked idle voltage for alt output (14.46V) Bypassed the ballast resistor (ohmed at 1.4 if my memory serves) Cleaned the ground behind the taillight for the fuel pump Pulled the vac line to the FPR and plugged nipples but made no difference. Still to do: Find a pressure tester to check the FPR and pump pressure Should I check voltage at the pump? Check pump sock (want to pressure test first so I can get a pump if needed and only have to pull the unit once) I am thinking the fuel pressure test will answer for me as there is a lot more fuel needed under load so low pressure makes sense but I don't understand why it goes away under full throttle if it is a pump/pressure issue. Any input to other tests would be great. Cheers Dave *edit* wanted to add that it starts with no issues, and has a slightly loping idle but nothing abnormal for an older engine. 1988 4.0L BA10/5 210,000 KM's (approx, PO had no speedo cable so kind of unknown)

yes, but 1990 and before were the same cluster save for how the speedo cable attaches. The 93 donor I have though has a very different cluster that doesn't work in most ways vs just the speedo hookup.

So I got the sockets the other day, but of course when removing the stud today the torx part snapped off in the first few seconds :mad: But with some convincing I managed to get the stud off anyways and cleaned it all up. Also cleaned up the negative cable as it looks like the PO clamped some insulation in where the cable meets the terminal... She seems to idle a bit nicer now, and I believe it has eliminated the cold stumble so I'm pretty happy for sure. Now just gotta figure out why my truck either runs cold or if it is just the temp sender being the wrong part for guages (my po installed the speedo cable designed for from the trans to the cruise control straight to the cluster so it would really not surprise me...) Cheers Dave

Right, I just realized I was thinking of this backwards to how I'd do it as I would be using the new cluster and old speedo vs the old cluster and new speedo... Thus it was a stupid question as I knew the new cluster would not work in general... :wall: So never mind all Thank you