jamespwsullivan

The engine runs and is pretty good most of the time except the conditions I stated in the original post. Someone on the Jeep Renix FB group mentioned something that made me think about what might be different about this setup I have. For instance, do I have the best option (only option?) for intake manifold? I have the block number which confirms the 2003 block and the head is definitely the 0331. What differences might there be for the intake manifolds? Some folks say that the later model intake will bolt up with some modifications but since there is no evidence that my throttle body is unmodified that makes me think that my intake is from the original Renix motor. Could that make any difference?

Yes I'm pretty confident we do. I'm not sure it would even run with an 87 flex plate. But you bring up a good point. I don't have my parts books handy (out of town) but I wonder if the CPS is the same?

@neohicyes I wish I had been involved when the engine was being swapped!

are you referring to the flexplate? we've been down that road.

So my brother @kentsu66 and I can see the light at the end of the tunnel on our “Restore to Reasonable Daily Driver” project with my 1987 longbed. There are still a couple of running issues that we are trying to track down. For just a bit of context, the 4.0L in the MJ is from a 2003 TJ but I’m still running Renix. Does anyone have any direct experience with adapting this later model 4.0 to a Comanche or Cherokee running the Renix MPFI? What issues did you have? What worked well and what didn't.

Thanks again for all of the recommendations and feedback. I will try and remember to update this when I finish the installation and do some on the road testing. That's likely to be a couple of months from now. (because why would my truck be at my brother's in WA when I live in Indianapolis? LOL)

That's what I was figuring. Since the rest of the cab is bare I won't need to worry about the tops of the pillar panels. Thanks.

Great advice. Thanks! I realized I hadn't identified the trim that goes under the door in my pile of plastic so I took a better look and found both pieces. Now what you said make perfect sense.

Yeah I test fitted the driver's side without damage but it looks like there is a screw that holds the A pillar trim to the body and it lines right up with the center line of the dash. That's why I think the dash has to be backed out. There's only one or maybe two other anchor points for that A pillar trim as far as I can see.

So it has been several years since I took the interior out of my MJ and I want to make sure that I put it back in the most efficient and effective order. I have new headliner and carpet plus I think all of the interior trim panels are in good shape and ready to install. The upper A pillar trims (not the lower kick panels) seem to test fit just fine but it looks like the lower attachment screw-right around the middle of the dashboard up and down-needs to be installed with the dash out. Is that true? Does the headliner need to be installed first-before the A and B pillar trims-in order to be the easiest install? Thanks in advance for any tips and suggestions.

$$$ sent

Also, did you buy from Joyring, Amazon, or someone else? I see that if you buy direct there is a 2 year warranty but the lack of a pdf manual ( I couldn't find one on their site) is a little concerning. Any other pro / cons you can think of?

Thanks @ghetdjc320. I had seen references to the Joyring unit in the past but had forgotten about it. Sounds like it might be a good choice to consider. I know @limeyjeeper and will text him to see what his experience has been. Does the unit come with e decent manual or pdf?

Thanks everyone for all of the feedback so far! As I mentioned, the inexpensive units seem to have very mixed reviews and while it's nice to spend fewer dollars I'm OK with something a little costlier / brand name. I hope folks keep sharing their experience especially if they have direct experience.

I know that I have read about several of us installing a new head unit that has a touchscreen in the single DIN space in the dash. Some are inexpensive and some are not. And of course there are bad reviews about just about every one I've looked at. Here is what I'm looking for. touchscreen that is adjustable in height or has some kind of swivel to allow some access to the HVAC controls. backup camera included or can be added Must work with Android for music and Google maps Bluetooth connectivity preferred No CD/DVD needed or wanted - just another thing I won't use that can screw up. prefer hearing about a unit you have direct experience with or you know someone who has experience. Thanks.

I haven't been able to find this one anywhere. I looked for it a few months back but never corresponded with Cruiser54 to see why it wasn't showing up. Have you considered a sticky showing which of Cruiser54's tips that are listed on his site are still missing? Great work on reposting these! I know Pete will continue to be helpful to current and future Renix owners as long as those setups are around.

@schardeinI emailed Team Cherokee last week and the email bounced. Between that and the not so great comments from several people trying to order from them, they are permanently off my list. Too bad, they offered some harder to find stuff.

@kentsu66

Either already refurbed or in good enough condition that they could be refurbed. It would be great to find some in the Seattle / Tacoma/ Everett area. Thanks

Some people say there are no stupid questions... But I did make a pretty rookie mistake I think. I replaced my heater core and am now in then process of reinstalling the dash, defroster duct, etc. The heater box is already in place. I have the FSM and it has provided good step-by-step guidance but I failed to take a picture of what things looked like as I was pulling the dash. How does the hose that goes from the defroster plenum/duct route to the driver's side vent? Either the PO routed it funny (a couple of very sharp bends in a small space) or it was OK, just a poor design for air flow. If anyone has pics that would be great but I'll take whatever comments you have. Maybe it goes over or under the speedo cable on the cab side of the steering column mount? Thanks

Great narrative. Some pics might be nice but anyone who has spent a few years wrenching probably should be able to follow this.

@Parei_doll_ia thanks! Are you racing Miatas?

@derf Yeah I'm thinking it will be difficult to interpolate between 31" and 32" The tires, when inflated to recommended pressure, are closer to 31.6" @gogmorgo Your description of the process makes sense except I don't know the relationship between the correction factor and the number of teeth. I looked back and found that I had ordered the current speedo gear (much larger tires) from Quadratec and it was within 2 mph at 55-60 actual. So, I may just go that way. I'd be interested in the math you're referring to though. Thanks to both for the responses.

Well, I already knew to look for a chart to find the correct number of teeth for my rear end ration and (new) diameter tires, but I am finding conflicting information I think. This is a 1987 vintage AW-4 and NP231 combo and I am going to smaller tires. Lots of changes in process for this truck. So this should be the long gear for mechanical speedometers, but I think the two charts I've found don't seem to agree. One is the Novak chart found here: https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/transfer-case-parts/np-speedometer-gears and the other is from Quadratec: https://www.quadratec.com/c/reference/jeep-speedometer-gear-tooth-chart I am looking for the proper number of teeth for a 4.10 gearing and 32" tires. Novak says 34 teeth and Quadratec says 36. Am I missing something? Pat

Would you be willing to post a link to the specs for your 3D printed gauge pod?