sin3kal

I'd give your vacuum lines a good going over. Make sure that they have cracked and started leaking or knocked loose.

Good luck, the operation is pretty straight forward. Advance Auto has the o ring pack for 4.98. Use vaseline or wd-40 to lube them up so they don't get cut. You may have to rock and twist the injector to get it to seat. You should feel it "pop" when fully seated. Also make sure that the manifold (engine side) hole is clean of debris, or it won't allow a good seal. Do ALL of the injectors at the same time, even the non leakers, because the act of pulling the fuel rail and unseating the others to leak due to old o-rings. You do not need to remove plug wires to replace the rings. and MAKE SURE TO KEEP TRACK OF WHICH PLUG WENT WHERE. Re-assemble in this order. Plug all injectors into fuel rail, attach clips, plug entire assembly into manifold. Happy hunting.

Hopefully you got this figured out by now, but the clips push off the collars using something like a flat blade screwdriver (You'll be pushing towards the manifold so be careful that it doesn't spring off into the black hole of your engine bay). Next push the fuel rail onto the injector. You will see a groove on each side of the injector. The shelf below the slots (windows) in the clips go into these grooves). The slots on the clip go over the flared part that the injectors plug into. Like everyone said, you might as well replace the orings while you are at it. It's 5 dollars in parts and about 30 minutes of your time. If the injector near the hoodlatch is leaking, the fuel will ignite if the manifold gets hot enough. It then may melt the hood latch cable and you won't be able to open the hood to put the fire out. Just sayin :dunno:

Love the headliner!

Nice score on the Wildernest, and strong work on the trailer!

Stoked to see someone else's rig starts the same way as mine

Looking for a spider gear set (used is fine) for a 30 spline trak-loc d44. Looking to spend under 30.00. Would need it shipped to 24060.