Zebvance

Here is the new Iron man Motor mounts

Here is the engine block number.

Alright here is how it looked with the old engine mounts and me, my brother, and my buddy cortney trying to pull the engine forward where it "needed" to be.

Alright here is how the mounts looked

At the end of the night and a few beers, sweat and blood. I had the imprint of a pair of pliers in me FUN TIMES!

Ok this is going to be pic heavy. I started tearing a part the 4.0 to install new Iron man motor mounts, a pacesetter header and a new trans mount. Up untill now it has been mostly just buying parts, then I started to get a abundance of parts. the start of the tear down, labeled everything.

This is how the pile of parts was looking like before I put the bumpers on. It Felt like X-Mas!!!!!!!

bump :shake: Sorry no, cut them up, you wouldn't want them, they were 80% bondo, 20% crenkled metal.

I do know though that a upgraded alternator is coming soon, the truck would drop to about 8 volts under a load with the winch and the engine reved.

First weekend down at the beach with the bumpers and I had to put that rough country 9500lb winch in use for my buddy with a CJ7 on 34 inch super swampers. The winch worked great!

And next it is to install them after A fresh coat of Super silver to match the decal, since I plan on painting it back on after the paint job in the future. BUUUTTTT First I had to do some Cutting And this is how it will sit after the 6.5 inch long arm lift Final product!

Got the front bumper in! TEST FIT!!!!!!

Do you have b pillar lights, also pics of the clear corners and how much, email is zebsvance@gmail.com

Where cup holders lack on the inside can be made up for on the outside!

They are pretty awesome and who knew a mj could also become a convienant beverage holder!!! :cheers:

So if I put a 8.8 in the rear is it Possible that if I kept the set up I have now it would be perfect with the 8.8 because the yolk on the 8.8 sticksOut more than the Dana 35, therefore it would need a shorter driveshaft? But mine is already to short it would be perfect? Maybe.....

So I should run the trans lines to the radiator how they are then from the radiator to the trans cooler?

ok thanks for clearing that up for me. How about the trans cooler. anybody have thoughts about that?

He will need more than that driveshaft lengthened. Without e slip yoke, the driveshaft now needs to have a slip joint in it. In a Cherokee you can usually get away with a stock front driveshaft. In a Comanche you will need to have a front shaft lengthened, or have a custom one built. Neither of those two options is cheap. Nothing wrong with a slip yoke eliminator on a Comanche. Although they're not normally needed they are still a good upgrade. But I would not install one simply because the output seal is leaking. I would replace the $10 oil seal which takes all of 5 minutes, 4 of which is getting the old one out. If you want to have 2wd low range functionality, I think the $242 listed on that site is quite affordable. Did you perhaps look at the price for the 4-lo (4:1 low range) kit? That one is almost $1200. See I was unaware that I wouldn't just be able to run a front Cherokee drive shaft, that's what I was planning on doing. To my only option with a sye would be to get one custom made or lengthen? I also when to my local transmission shop and asked him what his suggestions were. I trust this guy, I have a few friends that have gotten there gears, lockers, manual trans , and transfer cases rebuilt buy him, He has the cheapest price on labor in town and his stuff holds up with no question. He told me that because of the lift, even with the new drive shaft I really still need a sye or the seal is going to keep going out, he said there is to much stress on that seal from the pressure and angle the drive shaft is at. He said he would replace the seal for about 100$ parts included if I wanted and he would install the sye with new drive shaft, parts Not included for 250$ labor. I didnt think that was to terrible.... Now if i did just do the sye, and get a new drive-shaft do you think I would be able to sell the old one on here? and if I could what would be a fair price to ask? Also yes I was apparently looking at the 4:1 kit, yea 242$ isn't that bad, how ever How low will it be after I gear? And what will my top speed be in 4hi? I tend to cruse down the beach at about 30 mph in 4hi. would I still be able to do this with that kit? The 2-low kit is not a re-gear. It's a set of levers that allow you to have 2wheel low. so you have 2h 4h n 4l 2l no gear reduction. It's great if have a locker up front, or solid passenger shaft etc. so you can launch a boat and still steer type thing Ahh ok I see

that could be from the shaft compressing in and out of the case though right? I have fully flexed out the rear on about 6 different occasions last time I took it out. Does anybody have measurements of the shaft fully extended out of the case and fully collapsed? I could measure mine and see how extended it is just sitting and know from that right?

He will need more than that driveshaft lengthened. Without e slip yoke, the driveshaft now needs to have a slip joint in it. In a Cherokee you can usually get away with a stock front driveshaft. In a Comanche you will need to have a front shaft lengthened, or have a custom one built. Neither of those two options is cheap. Nothing wrong with a slip yoke eliminator on a Comanche. Although they're not normally needed they are still a good upgrade. But I would not install one simply because the output seal is leaking. I would replace the $10 oil seal which takes all of 5 minutes, 4 of which is getting the old one out. If you want to have 2wd low range functionality, I think the $242 listed on that site is quite affordable. Did you perhaps look at the price for the 4-lo (4:1 low range) kit? That one is almost $1200. See I was unaware that I wouldn't just be able to run a front Cherokee drive shaft, that's what I was planning on doing. To my only option with a sye would be to get one custom made or lengthen? I also when to my local transmission shop and asked him what his suggestions were. I trust this guy, I have a few friends that have gotten there gears, lockers, manual trans , and transfer cases rebuilt buy him, He has the cheapest price on labor in town and his stuff holds up with no question. He told me that because of the lift, even with the new drive shaft I really still need a sye or the seal is going to keep going out, he said there is to much stress on that seal from the pressure and angle the drive shaft is at. He said he would replace the seal for about 100$ parts included if I wanted and he would install the sye with new drive shaft, parts Not included for 250$ labor. I didnt think that was to terrible.... Now if i did just do the sye, and get a new drive-shaft do you think I would be able to sell the old one on here? and if I could what would be a fair price to ask? Also yes I was apparently looking at the 4:1 kit, yea 242$ isn't that bad, how ever How low will it be after I gear? And what will my top speed be in 4hi? I tend to cruse down the beach at about 30 mph in 4hi. would I still be able to do this with that kit?

This is the set up I have now and outlines in the picture is the seal that is leaking. The drive-shaft was on the truck when I bought it and I have the receipt for it and it only ran about 100 bucks, It is also aluminum.

Here is mine SmkM-sqRCjk

Yup! magnetic coozie!!!! here is a link to a manufacture. Not sure if it is one with a competitive price or not, just first one I came across. here are some pictures