ftpiercecracker1

I just got done looking at the site and I don't know what to think. It sounds to good to be true. I mean 400 dollars for a brand new set of true MTs shipping included??? :eek: Is this some kind of cruel twisted joke? or have you just become my new bff? seriously they have 100% hard core mud tires for 79 bucks A PIECE!

Right now i am lookin at the dunlop mud rover 30/9.5/R15($140) or the walmart Nexen Roadian MTs 235/75/R15 ($110) both have free shipping, but the mud rovers are definatly more aggresive and they both fit a 15in rim.

sounds good jim-bo. what kind of fog lights are you running?

Lookin for the gnarliest tires I can find that will fit a bone stock truck with the factory 15in rims. 800 buck limit Its farm truck used on steep, slick as a morter forker, hills and I am tired of sliding sideways down the hill. thanks for the suggestions.

crap, just saw you have the 2.5 not the 4.0, but it might still work.

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/electric.html read. learn. build. hope it helps

sorry charlie can't help you there. axles only no vehicle in sight

is there anything in particular i should look for? like numbers or marks 'n' such. I will try and get them tomorrow if i can.

sweet, sounds like I might have a binding war on my hands. They are located at Clark scrapiron, in Murfreesboro, TN (middle TN). Just to let you know these are at a scrap yard not an auto salvage. I rolled them around a bit and they seem to be in pretty good shape, even the locking hubs engaged smoothly and easily. However it still bugs me why someone would take a perfectly good pair of 44s (abiet, worn) to a scrap yard. :dunno: but if its good enough for you guys it is certainly good enough for me. thanks for the reassurance.

Local scrapyard has two dana 44s for sale front and rear in good working condition. They want 75 a piece, the front comes with fully functioning manual locking hubs, tested them myself, as well as what looks like HD diff covers. what do you guys think? if at any point i was to swap to a 44 what has to be done to the truck to make such a conversion? thanks for all your help.

I looked at carpart, it looks good, I will keep them in mind for the future for sure. thanks for the help

middle TN, its run by a bunch of pakistanys who don't speak much "engrish". Unfortantely, I don't know of very many salvage yards in my area. I know of 3 and they are all ran by the same

30 bucks! that must be nice. they want 56 apiece for them here, and thats in house brand. and if the u-joints you mentioned are the ones connecting the axle shaft to the wheel assembly, those are new HDs. by the way what the heck is road force balancing??? thanks for the help.

Good to know, they also said they would sell the entire engine to me for 350, but they said if i bring in my entire engine as a core they would take off a whopping 50 dollars! :eek: (sarcasm) That would make for a low low price of 300 bucks for an engine with a blown head gasket and absoluetly no warranty! :thumbsup: thanks for the help guys. :cheers:

1990 eliminator, 5spd, 4x4, 4.0 nearly the whole front end is new, save the control arm bushings, power steering box and that funny U shaped bar that runs from one side to the other. (the sway bar i think) tires are brand new and have been balanced many time in the last month, as well as alignment. It was shaking quite violently right at 55mph, but once I replaced the track bar THAT particular shaking completely went away, finally. But now there is some mild shimming at 65 and above, very predictable and constant, does not go away until you are back below 60ish mph. Its not bad, but its just very annoying after sending so much time and energy fixing the first thing only to have it occur at again. Like I said, the track bar, steering stabilizer, drag link, tie rod and all ends, wheel bearing assemblies, and tires, are all new. The steering box is a little loose and the rear passenger side rim is a tiny bit warped, but thats all that i know is wrong with it. Any ideas let me know thanks for the help.

At a local salvage yard there is a 94 jeep cherokee sport, HO. I went in there and asked them what they were asking for the head, exhaust man, and intake man. They said they gave me a good "discount". Head: $100 Intake: $50 Header: $100 (normal $250) There is no warranty/guarantee on the parts whatso ever, and a 25% FEE to restock the items if returned. Everything about the vehicle is in like new condition, with presumably low miles (>150,000) the only reason it was taken to the scrap yard was because of a blown head gasket does this sound like a good deal? thanks for lookin

Read. Learn. http://www.olypen.com/craigh/auxfan.htm this guy offers an excellent option to a straight foward toggle switch. I did mine just TONIGHT, and it works great. I can try and post pictures for those who are interested. Unforately the truck is still running warm even with the fan going, I think I will just do a thorough coolant system flush and see what happens. Think Clorx/Bleach would be a good idea?

A toggle would make a great last resort, but seeing that all the electrical is there and working (save the sensor) i think i am going to try and find a sensor that works the way i want.

I guess the truck is doing just as it is supposed to do then. :dunno: I am still going to try and find a different sensor for the fan though, now that I have actually found it. I am kinda in same boat as Ismurphy, here i like things to run a little on the cool side. Running in the mud in south florida in the middle of the summer can get an engine perty hot.

Thank GOD for the comanche club! What I would do without you guys is a mystery. I found the sensor on the rad, unpluged it and tested, what do you know fan kicked right on. Now i just need to know where to get a lower rated temp sensor. And just to let the guy know who posted his suggestion of a different senor, it won't work, mine seems to be much larger. thanks again

everything is stock, but not original, still a closed system I know this may come off as a little anal but 230 is just to long to wait for the fan to come on to me. Is there a sensor that would kick the fan on sooner? say 215? I know about the earlier posts, and his suggestion, but is that my best option?

ok, so a little update. Its about 35* outside, I took the truck for a short spin and the temp fluctuated between 213 and 185. In low range creeping up a hill side the temp wouldnt come down from 215* and the whole time the fan never kicked on. So 1. What exactly is my running temp supposed to be? 2. Why is my fan still not kicking on? I know for a fact the relay is good and the sensor is new. 90, eliminator, 5spd, 4x4, 4.0, fan temp sensor is on the driver side engine block, inbetween the engine mount and exhaust. Relay is on the driver side inner fender well.

still, where can i go to get a temp sensor calibrated for 215* instead of 230??

tooo what? what would i ask for at an auto parts store? I would like the fan to kick on at about 215* instead of 230. I just don't like it getting that hot before there is some relief. These trucks are bad about warped heads because of overheating.

dadgum you guys are FAst. :cheers: thanks for the info is there a way to adjust that? the temp i mean.