zagscrawler

I'm not sure if this applies but ive seen on many occasions when running high end mountain bike parts (frames,bars,ext.) that the manufacturer gives the aluminum parts a life span. meaning that depending on the abuse and general riding (driving) style they will wear out on a level naked to the eye, kinda like when you fracture carbon fiber. You can't see the damage but its in there and the next time it takes a hit it will fail instead of return to its normal self and without warning normally. I see the allum stuff as being a drag motor.. it performs to the 9's when its working but you have to rebuild or replace them before they break to make sure your not stranded. I'm in no way saying this is not the case somewhat with steel but I would rather know when I should replace something cause its bent then have to wait for it to break before I suspected anything wrong at all.. Besides I can't help but think of how many cromo steering set ups I can build with that kind of money. Again I know it has its place but ill be sticking with cromo till 7075 starts showing up in convenient drop lengths at my local metal supply house lol

I'm not to familiar with anything other than my 88 but my 2wd had all the mounting bungs or whatever you call them.. for the transfer case shifter linkage but none was drilled or threaded. that alone plus the adjustments would take a bit of time. Also if the rear driveshaft came from the 4x4 mj (same wheelbase) I would guess you would be good, but you might already know that. Also I'm not sure when the change over to the 8.25" rear end happened in these bad boys but if there is a difference in diffs with yours and the doner they might be different lengths also. Oh ya lol don't forget to grab the front u-joint straps and bolts if you can... those never even crossed my mind till I went to put my front shaft in. p.s I'm sure your aware of the gear ratio's needing to match. just throwing that out there.. GL friend. :cheers: p.s.s if I'm not mistaken the trans crossmember can, must be moved to the most rear mounting holes in the chassis and you will need the 4x4 trans mount and exaust hanger to fit the exaust at the rear flange if you still use the stock exaust. I think ....

Appreciate the help fellas. I happen to run across a guy today when picking up my driveshaft that has run front and rear Locrites for almost ten years now he says and with no probs to speak of.. He also showed me a video of his jeep on two wheels and the pass. side (the side that was off of the ground) were still turning at the same rate as the two digging in. He was not on the gas much at all it seemed which I liked. I think this settles it for me. I'm going to grab a couple after I sort out the trans issues and let it rip. For the money (which I'm out of now) seems like a no brainer.

Has anyone had any first hand experience with the lockrite up front in a dana 30 hp? my main concern is does it lock up with very little throttle input or does it require stabing the throttle to engage with say one front tire off the ground. I'm worried if I start creeping up rocks with a wheel of the ground up front it might not engage until I maybe ride the brakes to load up the axle a bit. Any one seen these in action with someone that is easy on the gas?

That is damned good news to me. I might just get one coming as a back up considering the reputation these things have. Thanks for the heads up.

I wish that was the case man.. Also the flexplate does have centering tabs not aligning pins. Next time you get a chance to check one out look in the center of the plate there are small fingers stamped out and domed slightly that are supposed to ride against the circumference of the machined flange of the crank. I can expect small bits of play here as there was with all the flexplates ive installed lately but the play was no where near the run out I was seeing. Also the indexing I was referring to was the bolt pattern of the crank meaning I could only put the flexplate on in one clocked direction, so like if someone was to say you just need to rotate the plate till it was in the proper holes, I could say I can't rotate it, it only goes on one way... You nailed the fact that the defective plates were infact round but the mounting holes and centering tabs were of to one side, I placed my factory plate on top of the second napa one today and lined up the ring gears till they were totally flush all the way around, which they were, but the center that was stamped out for the mounting was offset. I installed the factory plate earlier today and everything sounds great. I have a video of the run out on my phone now and when I show my buds they all $#!& lol. that's a keeper. The reason I actually took the vid was because when I took the first plate back to the store the counter guy said maybe it was my truck and he was thinking of grabing my returned one for his jeep, I warned him to chuck that piece cause it was all fubared. Hope he believes me. Anyhow I'm sure ill have to show him the vid of the second one to prove I need my damned hard earned money back lol. Thanks for all the advice guys I really appreciate it. this one worked it self out at my shop but I am already having other probs with the convert that I need all the info I can get from anyone :thumbsup:

lol crap ..about an hour ago my wife found a factory flexplate in the garage while we were BBQ'in.. I owe her in a huge way right now. that thing is solid lookin. the crap I have sliced my fingers on today looks so much worse now, what crappy parts those have been.

my lathe is not large enough to handle that large of diameter part, I would have to go to my pops place and to be honest I don't think it is going to be that critical. There are bigger probs here. no need for indicator imo, I can see the run out with my bare eye lol. Also this truck has been one hell of a trooper with way over 300k miles on it and not once did it ever show any signs this kind of misalignment. No vibrations to speak of with the old set up at all, and with this much of a deflection I would have noticed it with a flywheel as heavy as it was. LoL besides the thing still has the main bearings in it after 300k so I'm sure the crank should be able to handle a little ol flexplate. besides the sound is the first indication that things are not norm. it sounds like my flexplate is eggshaped... To be honest I am going to take a video of the amount of run out with my phone so I have some proof other than my word, if you were to see this $#!& in person you would $#!& a brick. I can believe the starter doesn't stall at the high point its that bad.

I agree with paradise here, most likely it soaked the distributer or ignition wires.. caused some misfire or lack of fire (hence the backfire) and croaked till things could dry a tad. Good luck and if its not broke (NOW) don't fix it lol.

Hey all. while doing my 2wd to 4wd convert I am having issues with the new flexplate I am getting from napa. The first one was out of round bad enouph to start to shine the tops of the tight teeth on the ring gear with only about 5 start ups..besides the horrible sound as it was cranked, so after looking at the teeth as the engine was cranked I noticed that the teeth were moving side to side (close then far away from bell housing wall) about an 1/8 of and inch. I removed the trans and flexplate and took it back to napa and picked up a new one. I installed the new one (again) and didn't even connect the converter bolts so I could crank it around again only to find out it was even worse. I mean like this pile of s..t almost scrapes the inside of the bellhousing wall. Almost 3/16 of an inch if I had to say anything. Of course this is reeking havoc on my starter and my knuckles. sooooo has anyone else had these issues or am I missing something when installing these things. The damned thing is indexed so I can only go on one way and has tabs that try to hold the plate centered to the crank flange. I checked for slop with the flange and the flexplate centering tabs and they might move a 1/32 of an inch no where near what I'm seeing at the bell housing.. The only thing I don't know is if the sensor cage that is built into the flexplate moves as much as the ring gear does. The first new plate I installed I actually started up and it ran fine, I'm assuming the cps sensor had no issues picking up breaks in the cage, I am not even going to finish the install on this one so I can't tell if it will run with this flexplate. These are non stock items for my store and this is costing me so much time on a already large project. ANY ideas? Please tell me I'm putting it in wrong lol. At least I can fix it myself then. Thanks guys and gals. Zag

So Paradise was your mj 4wd originally? It looks like I have two wires (four wire connecter w\two wires jumped) that was og for the ba10, assuming these are simple things like reverse lights and maybe some sort of speed sensor? Or maybe both for reverse lights? lol to be honest I haven't even looked at the old trany to see where the wires went.. that would be smarter I'm sure.

I'm glad to hear that to be honest. I'm familiar with wiring and hoped it would be as simple as cut and crimp or solder you know but it looks like there might be a bit more to it. the time and know how are there just need to know if its possible in the first place. Good luck with yours Paradise if I learn anything along the way I will be sure to pass it on.

:rotf: well it looks like paradise beat me to it.. I just noticed that he had posted in the exact same thread (granted with more specific ?'s then mine) earlier. Now I'm crossing my toes that this has been bone before with good results. here's an other one. my truck being originally 2wd would the harness have all the required plugs if I were to be using the same year aw-4 and t-case? if I remember right there was only one four wire plug when I pull the old ba-10...

Thanks for the link pete. ill be showing this bad boy off before you know it.. also thanks Oyaji ill look through the thread to see if it offers any help. I also posted on NAXJA within a very technical thread around the aw-4. The OP states that this combo will work in my truck but I'm assuming it was meant toward the fact of mine being 4x4 already... so we will see what comes of that and if anything good comes I will be sure to pass it on to Paradise. Worst case I hear the stand alone trans comp will allow you make this a sort of manual valve body if needs be. Not the greatest news but still one less action compared to the og cluch 5 spd. lol This combo will hit the road I swear it one way or another :fs1: Thanks again guys

Hello all.. Its been a while since I posted here but I finally started the 2xstandard to 4xautomatic conversion.. Also I have now lifted it about 6-7 inches and am running 35" km2's with 410 geared 8.25 locked up, a hp non-disco dana 30 up front. Ive moved the front axle about 1.5" forward with custom chromoly upper and lower arms, custom chromo track bar. The crossover steering is going to be make this week. I just finished installing the aw-4 and 231 t-case and have a few brackets and the shifter assembly to install this week. The main question I have is there anyone with first hand experience with splicing in the '95 trans harness into the 88 harness. I have computer (trans) and the entire harness from the '95. I could really care less about the spedo or the 4x4 indicator light to be honest. Also if someone wouldn't mind sending me a private message about how to upload photos to this site that would be great. Any and all help will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Thanks guys ill pass it on. Any one know if he was to hold it in seperate gears manually if it will bypass the electronics enouph to help the diag.?

Hello all. my buddy called me today asking me if i could help him with his xj. I know its not an mj but I'm sure it works the same in both. Anyhow here goes... He said he was warming up his truck before he hit the road to go wheeling and when he got in and put it in gear it shifted fine through second and then just reved up like it was slipping after that. He pulled over and shut it down for a few mins and then it worked fine for a bit.. then he hit the freeway and it was in OD when it just started slipping again. He also said it would every once in a while just catch and work ok then would act up with out warning. Any ideas? Any way to check electronics for failures? He did mention that he degreased his engine compartment a few days ago but this is the first time its acted up. Any info would be more then i know. Thanks all :wrench: Oh ya its an 87 4.0l 4x4

Thanks guys this one is behind an aw4. I'm having trouble getting it out of 4low at the moment but I'm sure it's probably in the linkage or shifter. Actually it will go into neutral fine but then has trouble getting back into any other gear. Any ideas?

Hey guys can someone help me figure out the difference in some of the t-cases that are common under these things. Anything special about a 231 AMC? Thanks

Ive not had time to inspect it myself but when i went to purchase the jeep from the lady she had a mechanic friend meet with us and he said he looked and all the bolts were tight a while back. I'm not sure i trust his opinion considering when i got there he was cranking the idle screw on the throttle body way open hoping to raise the idle enouph for me not to hear the noise in the first place. I have lots of work to do to this little sumbitch before ill trail out to the middle of no where with my family. ill get my head under it real soon. i have my fingers crossed that it is infact a bad flexplate. Thanks all. :wrench:

Hello all. I am having a real hard time getting registered into NAXJA so i can post up some questions so here i am.. Well i just picked up an 88 xj 4x4 auto 4.0l and it is making a horible sound around the flexplate at idle or a bit higher. It goes away mostly if you rev the engine. ive heard issues of cracked flexplates being like this...Any clues? Thanks all

good to know. thanks guys

The biggest concern i had about the grands is the wheel base. Anyone know if it is longer then the xj's?

I'm looking into picking up a second jeep and would like to know where to find some good info compairing xj's against Grand chero's. Any info or links would be great. I do plan on keeping my mj....don't worry. :D

Ive seen those types of cable in action and they are very good at pushing as well at pulling. If I'm not mistaken i believe they were acctually designed to work with commercial hydraulic PTO's and are build very beefy. Like said above only time will tell and good luck with it.