CGross

How do I go about replacing all the trim around the driver/passenger windows? The outsides are extremely broken and worn and I want to get it replaced before the snow and ice hit and it'd rust out my doors from the inside.

Doh! :shake: Don't mind me with my 93 not paying attention to the rest. :rotf:

No. 95's also don't exist for Wranglers, they're just 94's. And they're leaf spring, not coil suspension.

Make sure your connections are good and tight, especially on battery and starter. That's what I always had issues with when that sorta thing happened.

Any reason to remove the Monroes (Age, ride quality going down, etc) or just prefer Bilsteins by a metric ton more?

Personally, I used Advanced Auto Parts part numbers: 59001 and 59014. You may wanna use the LT shocks if you're actually gonna use the truck bed frequently. So that'd be like, $100ish range. And they're pretty good shocks.

Yeah I used the tires on mine, got re-balanced. Worked okay until the steel belt underneath it blew out. Might wanna watch out for that.

Are you sure your tires are balanced and not having issues?

This is what it was on my 86: Comanche Side Constant...........Red 12v switched......Red/Tan Ground..............Black Left Speaker......Green/Blackwhite Right Speaker.....Black/White The wiring colors change a lot. I recommend you get your multimeter and a AA. Use the multimeter to determine what's getting power switched or constant, and use the AA between the two wires you think are for a particular speaker. If the speaker wires are right, the AA's charge will allow the speaker to move some and create some noise.

Mine's for sure that hanger. I have just enough miles soon to start having the cat maybe go out soon. :cheers:

I have a rattle with my exhaust pipe on the cross memeber for the transmission mount. It looks like there's a little rubber space or something normally to avoid that from vibrating but I don't know if I can just replace the rubber, or do I have to replace the whole thing? What would the name of the parts be I need to get to fix it? My wife says where the piece welded to the exhaust pipe is, it fits into a square rubber piece and that rubber is old so it's loose and allows the tailpipe section to move and hit the cross member. Any idea where I can locate something like that square rubber or how easy it would be to replace? Included is some probably non-helpful pictures. http://i.imgur.com/bsI5u.jpg http://i.imgur.com/I8HTq.jpg http://i.imgur.com/KHggt.jpg http://i.imgur.com/SzsIQ.jpg

Yes there is a timing chain on the 2.5. It's in the normal places as you'd expect (Camshaft to crankshaft, just a cover with 6 bolts and 3 nuts holding it down)

Future Darwin award nominee :roll: RockMJ There's a difference between "No one on the road at 3:30am so I can coast it" and "It's 5:00pm on Friday in the middle of the interstate". It's 95% common sense when doing those kinds of things. The only power thing I have in my MJ is the brakes. And I think somethings up with that even since it's not actually the best in the world. :hmm: So I don't notice a difference too bad.

You need a lot more than just a transfer case. You'll also need to do a front axle swap, and a few other things to get it 4WD ready.

Easiest way to wire up a relay: http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/e ... glites.htm Relay is a LOT safer and more practical than having 25 amps of power coming straight to your factory switch.

Did the shocks over the past two days. Man where those not fun. Bringin' the heat! Next level wrenching action, that's smart. Old and busted New hotness! Now the rear doesn't roll and bounce like crazy. Just gotta do the fronts in a week or two. For now I don't feel like I'm going to slip out of place, but boy does that engine bounce up and down.

How exactly is a simple chip supposed to add 60HP?

I will when I do the fronts for sure. I'll get back under and do the rears at the same time. I just wanted to get it done for today and get out from under that cramped bed. Although gotta say, it was nice and cozy.

Got it off guys. I tried the nut buster but couldn't get the leverage (I'm only using a regular 3/8ths racket, my 1/2inch breaker bar broke back with my old Mazda's CV Axle replacement). After trying the nut buster, I heated it up, a lil' pb, and slowly got it forward. Put PB behind it, and put it back tight, PB again in the front, until it came off. Cleaned that stud up and then put everything back on. Thanks for the tips though, everyone! I'm sure this will be useful for those later.

Where do you live? Indiana. I realize snow and salt, but I don't think it'd really get up there too badly to cause that particular one issues.

What's with that area and rust? The other 3 I was able to get off with a liberal amount of PB for the week prior and then some heat, but this one is a pain.

I'm probably gonna pick one up tonight. We'll see though.

Air tools. And I'm being careful, don't wanna break that stud at all, especially in such an awkward position. :( I might try a bit of drilling, see if I can get it in there at all. Don't really wanna nut bust up there, seems a bit tight.

Adopt some hyper miling strategies. If your starter is good and on a down hill or something, you can turn off the engine, coast, and then crank back on when you need it. I have manual steering, so it's not like I'll lose any abilities other than quick braking, but that doesn't change much anyway for me.

I can't get this one nut off the rear shocks, driver side. I've PB'd it for a week prior. I've heated it to high heaven, attempt to wrench, and them PB it again then add some heat another time. Am I going about this wrong or should I just keep applying heat and PB? I've put much more heat than any of the other rear nuts, and this one just isn't budging.