acfortier

What's the thought with the distributor? I've had it out a few times recently, trying to stop it from leaking oil (which it still does, sigh). That could be the source of the noise?

Images are broken, but here's someone talking about the NV231 and NV242 from a Durango: https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/dodge-242-d-hd-231-d-hd-transfer-case-options.2142057/

I've had a pulley/bearing going bad for some time now, and the noise it's emitting is definitely getting worse, but I'm having trouble actually identifying which one it is. Even using a scope, I put it behind the idler pulley, but it doesn't seem any worse than the A/C or power steering. Just looking at the belt when the engine is running, I can see the harmonic balancer and water pump have slight front-to-back play in them. I know the harmonic balancer needs to be replaced at some point (timing marks don't line up correctly). I know the harmonic balancer doesn't have a bearing, so seems unlikely it would make any noise at all. I haven't used the A/C since I've had the truck as it needs to be filled. Unsure if that could be the pulley/bearing going bad. Power steering seems fine, as it doesn't make any worse noises if I actually move the wheel back and forth while stationary. Maybe it's the water pump? Hard to scope it while the truck is running. How else do people diagnose without just throwing parts at it? If anything, I'd start with the idler pulley and go from there.

Changed fluid and put in MT90. Noise is still present when cold, but goes away much quicker and doesn’t get nearly as loud as it used to. Noise does not go away when clutch is pressed in.

My fog lights do not come on with parking lights on, and headlights off. I had this same thought a month ago and tried it. I had assumed they would work with parking lights on, and headlights off. I didn't have fog lights from the factory but used the factory wiring from the cab to the main headlight harness, so I'm pretty sure the setup is the same (other than the normal headlight relay harness upgrade, which I also did).

Yep! Dorman Part # 090-042CD https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-standard-engine-oil-drain-plug-m18x1.5-thread-0.75-head-1-pack-090-042cd/11826820-P

Ended up buying a piece of project plywood and cutting it to fit, so I would have something to screw the amp to. Worked out great. Used some double-sided hook velcro strips to just hold the sub up against the carpet panel.

Came out really clean, love it.

Got it finally pulled, went to Advance. They had a bunch of different size drain plugs. Anyways, it's a M18 thread. Was able to just pick one up off the shelf and install it.

I ended up buying a Metra kit, and it worked pretty well. Had to trim the dash bezel a tiny bit on the right side, but I don't see it anyways.

Yeah, and it looks like the Crown part is OOS nearly every where and backordered. Posts on other forums indicate that they were able to get something from local parts store, but that was like 15 years ago now.

Anyone have a part no. for Napa/O'Reilly's/etc. for a replacement plug? Trying to find something local before I buy a Crown one.

How did you mount the existing bracket to the head unit? I’m currently trying to figure out a way to do it but nothing is lining up.

I have a Crunch P4125 that I had in an old truck that I was going to re-use--it's decently sized. I think I'm going to cut a piece of plywood to fit behind the passenger's side and mount it to the carpet panel so it's at least reinforced. Is that amp just floating behind the driver's seat?

Has anyone mounted an amp to the back carpet panel? How did you do so? I'm debating whether or not I need to cut a piece of plywood to act as backing since that panel can't really hold any weight on it's own. Also debating mounting the amp behind the passenger seat floor, as well. This post has some pictures, but unclear what's behind it:

Forgot to follow up. No, I don’t really notice the frequency of the noise change when I go faster—it might get louder but that’s it. Seems to go away under ~20 mph or so? Haven’t noticed if it goes away when pushing the clutch in, I’ll give that a shot. Ill take a peek underneath and check fluid levels.

What did you have to do/buy to get it to hook up to the harness in the Comanche?

I've got a pretty loud oscillating higher-pitched sound that seems like it's coming from the transmission when I'm driving in the cab. I feel like it goes away after awhile, but not always. It's kinda annoying at this point, and driving me insane. Can anyone else identify/hear it in these videos? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NQ2llMEPGLJLTITn_kyvNMR_POcEnwDO/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1J_u6DNNMJuUnMqDREZqTyUlWXnD-BXV-/view?usp=drive_link

Looks like it to me. If the vacuum lines were disconnected, do you have 4WD? If so, it's deleted.

All of the CAD delete instructions that involve moving the collar over, undoing the e-clips and sliding the fork over on the rod, then using the e-clips to hold the fork in place, so that the collar can't be moved back. Did you do that? That kit does the exact same thing, just removes the big vacuum actuator from being used and replaces the rod.

Sometimes cleaning the corrosion off the contacts is all it takes for repairing. I had one that didn't work, popped it open, used baking soda + water paste, scrubbed with a toothbrush, let it dry and put it back together and it worked again. Might get lucky with some of them that way.

Interesting. Didn’t see an extra harness at all, so just used that plug and ran it back. The light did go in and out as I was testing, it was a vacuum issue—the shift fork wouldn’t move from one side to the other. Of course I ran out of Weather Pack terminals so I’ll have to button it up tomorrow.

I decided I'm going to leave that switch in the housing (since it keeps it from leaking, lol) cut the wires off of that switch, and then splice wires to run back to the t-case for the new electronic switch instead. Should work the same, just saves me the leg work of having to find the wire up top like pre-91 I guess?

Hmm, I'm a bit confused. It seems that I have a switch on my shift motor housing, like this: Which is different than what the other write ups show. so does that switch now control the 4WD lamp on the cluster? Trying to figure out how I can get this to function if I flip the fork over to lock the collar in place.

very true!