turboxr

The driver's side socket was brand new. I replaced the pass side socket. It had been replaced in the past with another stock one but it looked terrible. I got the replacement part I found on here and wired it up. However, instead of a black, grey, and blue, I found a black, brownish, and blue but only on the pass side. The drivers side was black, grey blue. I wired the pass side like the driver's was. Black>black, Red>grey (brown on pass side), White>blue. However, now the pass side turn signals come on but do not blink and it blows fuses still. Here are the pics of the front socket wiring. Maybe I got it wrong. Pass side: Driver's side: I dug into the rear taillight wiring and what did I find? I'm no wiring expert, but that looks horrendous. The connections wer covered in duct tape. Eck! Here's the other side. Similar story:

Forgot to mention it's an AW4

I know this has been gone over and beaten into the ground, but I've tried pretty much everything I've gotten on search, and I'm still blowing the 10a fuse for instrument panel lights. Checked bulbs- one was shonky. Replaced it. Checked the plug under the bed. Checked and cleaned taillight ground. Pulled out radio wiring which looked like it was done by a monkey and made sure nothing was grounding there. Pulled out trailer wiring which was done by the same monkey and checked connections, making sure nothing was grounding. Replaced a license plate bulb which was bad. Tried a 15a fuse. Tried pulling the cluster but couldn't get the speedo cable off to pull it out far enough to check the connections and bulbs. I've got all lights except taillights and instrument panel. However, the brights and indicators lights on the cluster work fine. :???: Help?

Anyone want to pick that up and bring it out to Arkansas with them?

Love it! What color is that?

Thanks! I like the Moabs, but will likely go with a 16in steelie in the future. I'd like to go one inch higher. I have a donor ZJ V8 but I've come to a crossroads: 5.2/autotragic or Mercedes OM617 turbodiesel/AX15? The TD would be muuuuuch less of a wiring headache, but I already have the 5.2. The 5.2 would have more power, but the TD can be built to be an absolute torque monster while still getting 25+ mpg. Opinions?

Just finished my BB lift. 1.75in coil spacers and 1.5in shackles. I dig:

Treadlife varies. One is brand new (was the spare I assume). Two have probably 50% tread left, the other two 30-40%. Darn good deal.

Deal of the year: 5 Moabs from a Rubicon TJ with good tires for $200! Check it: Next up is a 4in lift. Woohoo! Also, I paid for my donor ZJ v8. Running driving all there. Also for $200!

Keep it coming! Waiting on that wiring...

This guy from NAXJA only used a few wires from the ZJ donor. Check it out: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2523955/1 ... kee/page-2

I'll be interested to see how you tackle the wiring, as I plan on a 5.2 swap into my 87.

I'm pulling everything I can for the updated interior etc for my MJ. I have to have the donor gone long before the 97+ conversion ever starts on the MJ as I'm DDing the MJ. That's why I'm blitzkrieging the XJ. I'm cutting the drivers side firewall out for the conversion.

This XJ has a sunroof- It looks like it's aftermarket but it's very nice. Should I pull all that as well?

Is the brake booster/ master cyl an upgrade?

Wrecked in the front. No motor or trans. -Doors -Door panels -Door seals -Dash and everything -Seats -Heatercore/blower -Console -Complete steering column -Shifter/tcase selector -Axles -All wiring -Windshield moulding Am I missing anything?

Ok. So my MJ has had a hesitation or misfire for a while. It's getting worse. It happens mostly under load in OD. If I leave it in 3rd, it will do it but not as bad. Previous owner replaced the CPS, ECM, coil, wires, rotor. All of those within 2 years. I've replaced the TPS and checked for a bad ballast resistor but my 87 doesn't have one. Fuel filter isn't clogged. I'm leaning towards the pump or pump screen. I've searched a million times and have come up with ECM, CPS, TPS, coil, plugs, wires, ballast resistor, etc but all those things have been changed and are good. Could this be related to the intermittent no crank situation when the truck has been sitting in the hot sun? What am I overlooking? I'm thinking I should pull the pump, inspect the screen, replace if necessary, replace pump, filter, and rubber hoses.

Man. That was the colour I had picked out!

Thanks for the tip! I thought it might be the cables. The - terminal is not as tight as I'd like it, but I fiddled with it which usually fixes a problem like this, but I'll replace the terminals today and see how that works. Thanks.

Since I bought my 87 4.0 AW4 it has had a problem starting. I'll turn the key to the on position to prime the pump, and turn it over to start it and nothing will happen. After doing it once more, it will start right up. It's been more of a nuisance or a nuance than a bother up until yesterday when I drove it to church, came out to come home and no matter what it wouldn't start. Same thing was happening, full power, pump priming, just no juice to the starter it seems. Well, I gave up and we took my wife's car to the parent's house for Mother's Day dinner, and on the way back, we stopped by the church parking lot to check it and it started right up. I'm thinking possibilities: -Starter solenoid -Starter -Relay somewhere? -Ignition cylinder Any ideas? Thanks guys.

I got no problem shipping at buyer's expense. I ship parts (wheels/tires) all the time. Of course, that means it's more expensive for you...

I have a set of wheels and tires for sale- stockers for $300obo. I'm in AR though...

Down the road from me. If anyone wants me to take a look at it, let me know.

I want to keep this up with as many pics as possible, because everyone likes pics! Here's Franklin (that's his name now, don'tchaknow?) earning his keep:

I think this thing already has a lift in front. I measured from the center of the center cap to the bottom of the fender flares and I got: 18.75 Front 19.5 Rear Isn't the front supposed to be 17.5?