Kenbob

forgot to ask: IF that flush cap is not a problem in the closed system, can I burp fro that? It would be at a higher point than the temp switch.

89 renex was doing well in winter but on our first warm day it over heats at idle. It runs at 210 when on the road but as soon as I cut the rpms the temp goes up. I am going to do the burp thing. The question is, since this is a sealed system, does one of those inline flush caps compromise the system. There are no leaks around it. Also, the extra fan runs when the ac is on but does not come on by itself when heat goes above 220. If there is air in the system will that keep the switch from operating properly? Thanks all

Thanks to those who replied. I was able to get it without removing the bumper. I removed the torx holding the bumper facing on the bottom. From there I could see the left mount was bent. I was able to straighten it some with a pry bar. I also used the bar putting the flat end in the slots at the bottom of the bumper facing. Got it to move a little. Now I have spaces between the bumper and both fenders. Not exactly equal, but good enough for a while.

It looked like tight work to me. My shield is in place so there is little room to work around it. That was why I posted for help. I will tackle tomorrow, IF I have the right wrenches and can get my big hands in there.

It looked like their were slots. Will try that first. Thanks

Does anyone have a page they can post showing the bumper front mounting for 1989 stock front bumber. I only have a crappy Chiltons and no info on that. I noticed that the rubber wings on the driver side are almost touching the fender. On the Pgr side there is at least an inch clearance. Bumper looks and feels straight otherwise. Wondering if it is not centered or if brackets are bent. Would be easier to see how it mounts before taking everything apart. Thanks

Napa has new ones and they are pretty cheap I bought one last month, think i paid $13

Smithville MO reporting in.....near KC

A good, full service hardware store will have them too...do it best is where i got mine...

The post wasn't intended as a how too, so no pics necessary. It was intended to help anyone decide if they wanted to try their luck on the cheaper liner.

After watching my truck drop plastic pieces from the fender liner, like needles falling off Charlie Brown's Christmas tree, I decided to replace my fender liners. I ordered from Rock Auto for about 75 bucks shipped. They called me the same day to say their would be a wait for those pieces but they had the part from another vendor parts ch1248106 and 1249106 for $37.94 shipped. I looked at the part in their catalog and it didnt look right but they insisted it was right so I ordered. The reason the parts look different in the book is because this part is very flexible and the pics show the thing unrolled. I kept them because I thought a softer part might not turn into hard plastic rain later on. I got them both on in about 1 hr time. You have to wrestle with them to get the holes to line up, but since they are pretty soft, after tugging and pulling they do go together. Once on they fit pretty nice. Because the holes are quite large, I did not take off the fender nuts that held the old part on. I slipped them over the old bollt/nuts. I am not sure this is right because their were no instructions. I think I will put rubber washers and nuts over the bolts to help seal out the water. I might also use some sort of black tape to waterproof the seam between the rubber outer fender and the fender liner. All in all, I think I am happy with it. The price was right. Once in they fit nice and tight. And I think they will outlast the harder factory type liners.

Your father should be ashamed for letting you get hooked on the Comanche drug at such a young age!

The right tab on my console (short one for 5sp and bench seat). It was only being held on by the left side screw so it moved all over the place. The vertical part of the tab was still there on the right side but the flat part where the screw went through was gone. I would guess by the design it is a common problem. Others probaby have already devised fixes but here is mine that cost $3.25. I wandered around the hardware store looking for the right gadget to use for the fix. I decided on the floor mounted guides for double sliding doors. The guide has 3 upright tabs on it and it slides. I took one of the tabs with the slide and broke the slide off. What is left is a plastic L bracket. In order to get the bracket to meet the metal bracket on the tunnel, I saw I would have to mount it BEHIND the upright tab on the console. This tab has a spline running up the back. So, I took the new bracket and sawed it slowly and carefully down the middle. A saws width is enough and the bracket slid right into the tab. I then pre drilled it and screwed it together. I used the tab from the door stops that already had a hole in it so I didnt even have to drill the flat part. Oh yeah, some glue between the two helps make it stronger. Mine is rock solid now......sorry no pictures camera down right now.

if you have been doing lots of work on your comanche (especially pounding out fenders) or have been surfing the comancheclub web too much it could be carpel tunnel. It is a bit unusual to be both hands. Mine acted up when I built my house. Doc said the hammering agrivated it, but he said it probably started from typing on a computer 40 yrs a week for 20 years.

Besides bad connex to fuel pump could the fuel filter be plugged? That might explain it if it is letting some fuel in, but not enough to keep it running steady. It would sputter as it loses supply and quit until it is replenished.

If your crawl around this site, you should find answers with pictures. The two look quit different.

Thanks for the info....My bumper is rust free front/back inside out. Still might have to get a hitch as I am pulling a very small travel trailer and might need the hitch to get the right height. Thanks again all.

I know the towing capacities for the 89 4.0 5 speed. I am wondering if the stock bumper is safe for towing 1500lb or less. Anyone have experience with this.

I was thinking too that those willeys boxes would give a neat look as the fenders are angular like the wheel openings on the comanche..Might be too narrow and have to be widened...if you could find one not rusted.

SOmeone posted a pic in the last 2 weeks of a ranger stepside on a comanche

Got that line switched out. That old rubber gromment was very funky...like it had half melted or something. Looking inside the valve cover there there was lots of grime there, which surprised me as the oil is so clean. ...I guess alot of dirt settled thru that small hole!

To get those rotting graphics off the side of my truck I found that besides using heat to get the big chunks off, using acetone and a razorblade knife (the ones used for removing inspection stickers) works well IF and a big IF you drag the blade toward you instead of pushing with the blade. Dragging it toward you with a light hand will get the glue off without wrecking the paint. It will take few swipes.

I also noticed that the tube coming out of the forward cap in the valve cover that goes to the air box has a bracket that holds TWO hoses of the same diameter in parallel. I only have one hose.....is this a clue to the one plugged with a bolt....looks about right size.

I went out and looked. At what I would call the base of the throttle body, there is an oval piece about 2" long with two holes in it. One has a small vacuum line that goes to a gadget on the firewall. There is nothing in the other hole.....is that the port? I ask because about 6" ahead of the tb, on the intake manifold is a 2" section of rubber hose sticking straight up with a bolt stuck in it. I know the bolt aint factory because the head is maroon metallic. Oh yeah, while searching, I found one of the two small rubber lines on the airbox off. That thing should really go if I get all the holes plugged!

Thanks, you guys rock!