jodawill

Thanks for the feedback. I'll try the zip ties.

Has anyone else had issues with the Dorman vacuum hoses? I replaced all the vacuum hoses a couple years ago and it seems like some of the connections come apart very easily, and I noticed tonight that the PCV hose leaks at the connection points. I have oil in my air filter. I'm wondering if I might have just gotten my harnesses from a bad batch or if they really are just that bad. I suppose I could just use some zip ties if I have to.

Thanks! I never knew because apparently my switch isn't calibrated correctly. It doesn't do anything when I turn it all the way down. I'm going to be replacing the switch soon, so hopefully I can get that figured out. I just finished replacing the transmission mount. The old one was liquifying and melting all over the cross support. My truck has almost no rust at all underneath, so it was surprising to see how stuck on those bolts were. With a little penetrating oil, my electric impact wrench made pretty quick work of them. They came out hot! I had to work them in and out quite a bit to get them to go back in. I'm going to try to get the motor mounts done tomorrow. I'm really curious to see if it runs quieter when I'm done with this. I figured out the problem with my door. According to a video where a guy had the exact same symptoms, I just have to replace the arm. Thankfully, there doesn't seem to be any welding involved. I'm trying to pace this project financially, so I'll order the new arm as soon as July comes around. None of the work I've been doing is particularly flashy, but there's a lot satisfaction in making all the small things work properly. Whenever I finally get to the stage where I get it painted and restore the rims, I'll feel like the truck deserves it. I want my truck to work like new before it looks like new. Otherwise, it's all hat and no cattle.

I just got it installed. It's completely identical to the original. Thanks!

I didn't know there was an option for a clock. That's awesome! I wonder what other accessories were available for those spaces. Mine doesn't have anything there.

I found the rest of my key. It was in the ignition all along! Got the ignition cylinder lock replaced. It has a weird idiosyncrasy where I have to have it at the right angle to pull the key out. Turning it all the way down just relocks it. I probably need to redo it. Maybe it was in the wrong position when I installed it. It does work though. I bought some key blanks that are totally identical to the one my grandpa used. It wasn't easy to track down, and I bought the only ones I could find anywhere on the internet. Now I need to find a locksmith who's willing to use my own blanks. I pulled out the power steering gearbox again because I suspected one of the seals was installed wrong last time. It turns out that it wasn't leaking at all, but when I put it back together this time, it didn't work properly anymore. So I just pulled it out a third time to check the bearings. I'm getting really fast at doing it though! I bought new splash guards from http://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/. I'm looking forward to installing them once I get all the leaks taken care of. It looks like the transmission coolant lines are leaking, and possibly even the radiator. So that's on my soon to do list. What's most concerning at this point though is that the coolant hoses are thin and bulging. It looks like no one sells them anymore, so I'm not sure what I'm going to do about that.

I would get new webbing for it. There's several companies that repair old seat belts. I'll have to do all of them soon. There's definitely some wear on the other belts. The hardest part to find is just the tan plastic covers. The new ones don't match themselves, let alone the originals.

Thanks for the reply. It looks like mine is actually different from yours. I see your screen is lit from the side like a Casio F-91W. Mine had a tube style incandescent behind the top of the screen. I think it should always be lit while the radio is on, but it never receives power. Since it's not actually built into the screen, who knows where it's not making contact. I'll borrow a power supply to look at the cassette deck and I'll report back once I have some information. I suspect it's not a mechanical issue though. I'm thinking the problem with the light may be related.

Does anyone know what length the lap belt is for the bench seats? Mine's long gone. By the way, if anyone happens to have an original tan lap belt, I'd like to buy it off you so I can get the original color.

Not sure why my post was merged here since it's about a Jeep Comanche.

I removed the dash bezel and made a huge mess just to poke around. Good times

That's such a good looking truck. Now I want one with a roll cage!

I came across a song about a Comanche recently. As far as I can tell, it's the only song ever written on the topic. I was surprised no one had posted it here yet. The song is Comanche by Kelsey Waldon. All of her music is on Bandcamp. The whole album is fantastic. Here's the music video:

I just found Minuit's post on repairing these radios. There are two in his post that look like mine, except they have the Jeep logo. Very strange that mine doesn't have it. I sent him a message. Hopefully he can help!

Does anyone have experience repairing the original stereos? At least, I assume it's the original. It's dated 1989, just a few months before the truck was purchased. There aren't any identifying markings on it like the Jeep cassette players I see on eBay. It mostly works, but I can't read the channel number because the backlight doesn't work. I tried replacing the bulb, but it isn't sending any power to the light. Also, the cassette player seems to be stuck on eject. It won't let the tapes lock into place. It's a very compact design, soldered together at some points. Is there someone out there who specializes in repairing these? Looking online, I've only been able to find people who work on tube radios.

Thanks! I ordered that one. We'll see how it goes.

I need to order a transmission mount. I see Rock Auto lists two different versions from Anchor - 2570 and 2858. They look the same to me. They also don't even have a section for the automatic transmission, so I'm not sure if either of them are correct for my AW4. Does anyone know which transmission mount will work?

I found an old thread where someone recommended buying the 4 hole fuel injectors here, but they aren't in stock anymore. What's the current recommendation for fuel injectors on the 4.0 liter? I see a few listings on eBay, but that can be sketchy sometimes.

I'm going to check into it when I get the new cylinder, but as far as I can tell so far, that isn't possible with these. They're not meant to be serviceable. Either way though, that original key isn't going to work in a working cylinder.

I plan to change the ignition lock cylinder soon. Unfortunately, that means my grandpa's keys won't work anymore. I was, however, with some difficulty, able to track down the same key blanks he used. There were several eBay listings of similar blanks, but the others weren't made in the USA. They're not 100% identical, but that really just seems to come down to poor quality control or the lack of precision and attention to detail when they originally manufactured these. They're close enough that I couldn't really describe the difference in words. The original Jeep logo keys are much easier to find. He never used his, but I'll recreate those too when I get the new lock.

I haven't, but I was planning to buy them along with the battery cables. How much of a difference do you think the battery cables will make? Does the resistance really increase even without visible corrosion?

I replaced the master cylinder the other day. How do you like that old brake fluid? I had been planning to work on the brakes for a long time because they were never great, but I kept putting it off while I did other work. Then a week or two ago, I almost drove through an intersection twice because the road was wet. (I had never driven it in the rain before.) I was being very cautious, driving really slow up to the stop sign because I knew the brakes might not be very effective. That still wasn't enough, and I barely stopped in time. It was scary. So I decided not to drive it again until I did something about it. After seeing what disgusting that brake fluid was, I can't believe it was working at all. The master cylinder was also leaking around the plunger, so I'm glad I had decided to replace it.

I stumbled upon jeepcables.com last night and it got me wondering whether my truck might benefit from some new cables. I think my headlights are dimmer than they should be and I've occasionally had issues starting it up. It seems like the starter takes longer than it should. The starter itself looks great, so I wasn't convinced it was actually at fault. For those of you who've upgraded the battery and headlight cables, what benefits did you see? Is it worth doing? How would you convince yourself it's necessary before spending the money, and how did you decide which gauge to buy? I assume 4 gauge is enough for a stock Comanche.

Do you happen to know what size they are?

This page says the lock comes both coded and uncoded, but I can't find any uncoded ones for sale.