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4 cylinder and 5 speed - sounds like an AX5 to me. I don't know if it's anything similar to my BA 10/5, but there is a hydraulic line with a bleeder fitting on the driver side of the transmission. It's just like bleeding brakes. With the slave inside, you might have to bleed a few times to get all the air out. However, if you were just driving along and found your CMC was dry, that suggests a leak. Bleeding won't solve that problem. You'll want to fill the MC and see if you can find fluid leaking anywhere down the line. An assistant would be helpful - they can pump the clutch while you check for the leak.

I have an '89 with the BA10/5, and had to replace the MC. I got the pedal firm, but once in a while the clutch feels like it's not quite engaging/disengaging like it's supposed to. I've heard that it can take two or three tries to fully bleed the system, but haven't gotten around to it.

Whatever you do, don't do this. :shake:

Surely I do. That's what I get for posting before proofreading. :doh:

I'm running a totally stock (as far as I know) 1986 Renix 4.0/2wd/Peugeot 5spd, with 235/75-15s, and I've been getting 20mpg with mostly highway driving. It's not econobox mileage, but for a six-cylinder truck it's all right.

So what you're saying is, if I can find a set of MJ buckets, my life will be easier? I assume any MJ buckets bolt into any other MJ?

Wait, now I'm confused. I thought any XJ seats required some bracket modification - perhaps I misread before?

Dude, that's actually pretty good for Craigslist. It's obviously not written by a grammar professor, but it's mostly spelled right and makes a bit of sense. Could be the guy doesn't have a camera and just jacked a picture for reference. Still a clown move, but if he's only asking $2000 it doesn't sound too scammy.

Have any of you guys been following this? Seems like quite a build. http://jalopnik.com/5693229/bill-caswel ... rting-line

I don't know about the freeze plug. The rear main job is an oily one, but trust me, if I can do it, you can do it too. I seem to remember that the RMS, the oil pan gasket, and the sealant were somewhere between $30 and $50 - I bought a lot of other stuff at the same time, so memory is hazy. You'll need a torque wrench to get the bearing cap(s) back to spec. Buy a good one and it will pay for itself several times over with this one job. Once you get done swearing at the oil pan gasket that won't stay aligned, and the oil dripping on your face, you'll stand back and be amazed at how much money you saved over a mechanic and how much you learned doing it yourself. Then you'll look at the now-smaller puddle of oil and try to figure out where else it's leaking. Jeep on! :cheers:

Road rage much? :rotf:

It's kind of you to provide the options, but we all know you meant "You need an AX15, period." :D

If you mean a manual choke, no. Can you be more specific about the problem you're having? Does it start ok, then run rough, or is it just hard to start? You could be looking at a lot of things, including distributor cap and rotor, vacuum leaks, any number of engine sensors or a bad fuel pump.

Thought about doing the old Rustoleum roll-on? http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master ... paint.html http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... art=1&vc=1 (starts midway down the first page) It's not factory, but it seems to get the job done with a minimum of expense, and if you take the time, it can look pretty darn good. When I get around to painting mine, that's how I'm going to do it.

The B-pillar lights are a 3-position switch - mine don't work, but they can be always on, on when the doors are open, or totally off, depending on which position the light is in. Try rotating the lens up or down.

On startup, I get a pretty serious knock/rattle that seems to be coming from the catalytic converter. It only occurs when the engine is cold, and it only carries on for 1-3 seconds. When the idle starts to come back down, the noise goes away. My muffler is trashed - just waiting on saving some pennies for a new one. Has anyone had a similar issue with the cat? My emissions are good for two years, so I wouldn't be too sad about losing it if it's toast, and just getting a new cat-less exhaust system installed.

I must admit, if someone offered me average retail, my truck would be theirs as soon as they had the cash.

It's tough on older vehicles, especially non-collectibles. $3800 sounds pretty high for a Comanche, unless it's in perfect original condition or has been totally rebuilt. I've always heard that the 4.0 is the preferred motor - does the V6 have something I don't know about that makes it worth more? Edit: NADA Classics says Low Retail:$2550. Average Retail: $5525. High Retail: $7775. Given the asking prices I've seen for decent trucks, those numbers sound high, but who knows? In this economy, the monetary value of an object is not a penny more than someone is willing to pay for it. I'd make an offer.

Mine got a bath today! Got all the greasy handprints off the fenders and lower panels from the RMS job.

How about the parking brake handle? Mine took a dive, and the junkyards here are full of XJs and their console-mounted handle. That won't work with my bench.

1989 Jeep Comanche Pioneer Shortbed 4.0, BA10/5, 2wd. Build date: 8/88 Truck has lived in the Phoenix, AZ metropolitan area its whole life - purchased at Earnhardt Jeep/Eagle in Scottsdale on March 19, 1989 - incidentally, my wife's third birthday. I bought it as a more interesting alternative to a Ranger. Most of the time I commute on the motorcycle, so the Jeep sees duty on the occasional rainy day, or whenever something larger than my lunchbox needs to go somewhere. It has a white exterior and blue cloth bench interior, with the full gauges and (currently non-functional) A/C. The original owners paid $13174.58, not including trade-in allowance ('86 Civic) or their service contract.

http://jalopnik.com/5298493/confound-th ... r-under-20 Here you go. At least till you decide to make it nice.

When I did mine, I had to tap on each side of the seal quite a few times to get it to unseat. Someone here mentioned that they used plastic chopsticks as the tapping tool - strong enough to put some force on the seal, but they'll break before they damage anything important. Mine came out before it got to that point, but you may have success.

Huzzah! New CMC (and a garden hose to flush the brake fluid out of my eye :mad:) did the trick. I pondered taking the old one apart to see what was wrong, but I suffered an attack of no curiosity and chucked it.

Hey Vintage, I checked out that spring. It looks like it's still good, but thanks for the idea. When I get this figured out I'll post what fixed it, in case it would fix your problem too. If you have an assistant depress the clutch while you're under the hood, can you hear the master cylinder working? My wife said mine sounded a little "wheezy" like air was leaking somehow, and I thought that could be a possible bad seal or something in there.