MississippiComanche

I did a 3 inch lift and noticed that the rear rubber brake hose is dry-rotted and cracking. I think it may be letting in some air because my brakes got soft and spongy after performing the lift. What brake line do I need to order for this?

I have a new stabilizer but the "cure" for my death wobble was new ball joints.

Here is a pic of my Rough Country tie rod, trackbar, and stabilizer. Some people will dog the sh*t out of Rough Country, but it had drastically improved the experience of my Comanche. My truck has always been a junker and feels like a daily driver now. You have to use wheel spacers for it to fit with factory wheels BTW

I meant to say tie rod earlier. I got a new tie rod and track bar.

I will say I did my steering upgrade and replaced ball joints before I installed my lift kit and when I still had factory wheels on it. I just did the lift and tires a few months ago....so the Death Wobble went away before that

Yea I have 3in lift on 31's. I ended up getting the Rough Country HD Steering Kit for the trackbar and stabilizer. In retrospect I wish I would've done the ZJ track bar or something else instead. It would've been a lot easier. I had to buy a reamer tool and ream the knuckles to fit the new larger RC trackbar joints. It was a pain in the a*s. But my death wobble is gone so I am happy. Steering is a lot more stiff and has better feel to it

I have a 2.5L that had Death wobble for the majority of the years I've owned it since 2005. I was finally able to get rid of the wobble last year by getting new tires, upgrading my trackbar to one that is beefier, I got new rough country steering stabilizer, and new upper/lower ball joints. The drivers side steering knuckle had so much play....and could easily be turned by barely touching it. I immediately knew this what the root cause of the wobble. As a kid, I had sh*t mechanics for years never properly diagnose it, and it finally after growing up....teaching myself how to be a mechanic...I figured it out. Get Spicer ball joints.

Yea I'm prob doing 4.56. Currently hunting for some axles.

Yea I'm looking around at parts to do 4 10 and figure out how much this endeavor is going to cost

Yea I got a little confused by the form. I'm looking for suggestions rather than raw rpm data.

What year and engine? Have you checked the 1988 Comanche Electrical Manual yet?

I currently have a 2.5L 4cyl with AX4. I recently upgraded my wheels to 31's, but I still have stock 3.55 gearing. Since getting larger wheels, I've noticed the sluggishness. What gear ratio should I upgrade to for 31's on my setup?

@eaglescout526 nevermind I found it in the 88 FSM

I've tried the search engine on the site and on google. Nothing.

@eaglescout526 stumbled across this today and have never seen it on this site. Is there a place to save stuff for the 2.5L on here?

I've had this same issue with mine for years. Tried every windshield glass glue I can find, prepped and sanded as well as you can....and nothing has worked. My gut tells me it has something to do with the windshield glass itself, and perhaps a tinted windshield would help. I also live in one of the hottest states in America. I'm replacing my windshield soon anyways do to old cracks and bad seal, so I'm just using a suction cup mirror until I do that.

I'm thinking about either cleaning out the one I have or buying a new EGR valve. If theres no benefit to removing it, I might as well keep it.

@GonzoTheGreat does the engine seem to run better without the EGR or is it even a noticeable difference?

Mississippi does not do vehicle inspections or tests. I'm more concerned about the pros and cons. Wondering if it will run better without it and will it be smellier without it?

I'm sure this is the 1000th post about deleting EGR's, but I'd thought I'd ask since I have mine removed for exhaust manifold replacement. I looked at the EGR valve and it seems to have a bunch of gunk in it. Wondering if I should replace it or get some block off plates? I've read people arguing both sides of this. What do yall think?

I'm wondering if I will be able to seal an aftermarket exhaust manifold without the gasket.

@eaglescout526 I found a thread on the Jeep YJ Forum explaining the same gasket situation you were referring to. https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/4-2l-exhaust-manifold-without-gasket.217206/ They said the intention is to have the head and exhaust manifold machined and then installed without a gasket. Also the reasoning behind the full gasket that auto part stores sell...is they don't think most people will go through the trouble of getting the manifold resurfaced.

just the result of living in a wet subtropical climate and 36 years of rusting.

It has a hole big enough to stick my finger in. I don't think there's a way to salvage the original exhaust manifold

I found this video on YouTube of a guy basically saying that all of the 2.5L aftermarket exhaust manifold flanges don't align with the intake manifold flanges....because they are cheap Chinese bs. Most of the aftermarket flanges are usually made too thick, and a few are made too thin. I will most likely have to do some grinding myself or take it in to a machine shop to get it to align properly.