GrandBoost98

Good call. Definitely don't want to end up with two in-op ECUs!

Duh I have another 2.5L ECU in the other MJ I can use to test lol I know what Ill be doing after work.

Thats good news, opens up my options a bit. Not that it makes a difference but this one is an 87, haven't added it to the signature yet. @Ωhm @eaglescout526 Thank you guys SO much! If I could buy you a beer I would

The jumper test worked but trying different relays didn't. Just to be clear, are you saying it's because of the possible bad ECU or I might still have a bad relay? Sorry, it's getting late lol

@Ωhm Ugh, I just had that out too lol Had to rig up an extention. That by itself ohmed out at 1.4ohms D2-2 c200-7 =4.2ohms D2-4 c200-19= 1.5 ohms So you're saying a new ECU would fix all my problems? This would give power from pins 1 to 4 on the B+ relay and I could eliminate the kill switch and related wiring? Which in turn would fix my two crank start as well? If so, do I need a specific 2.5l ECU or is one from any mj/xj okay?

D2-2 to pin 2 =4.3ohms D2-4 to pin 5 =1.5ohms D2-4 to pin 4 =1.5ohms

No start, just cranks

Not sure how long it would take to run out off fuel though if that indeed kills power to the pump. But it ran for a min and I revved it a few times with no hiccup

I have a drawer of used relays and fuses. I tried 3 different relays and they all acted the same. No start with kill switch off. I did notice that I can turn the kill switch off after it starts running and it will continue running

No, does not start just cranks

Oh and I forgot to mention, with the jumper wire in and kill switch off, I can't hear the fuel pump prime like I can with the relay installed and kill switch on

Kill switch off. B+ relay removed and pins 1 and 4 jumped. It started up and ran for a couple mins and I revved it up a few times. Should I run it longer or is that good? What really surprised me is that doing this "fixed" the two crank start! I was able to start it on the first crank 3 times. So then I removed the jumper wire, reinstalled the relay, turned on the kill switch and it went back to two crank starts

Pin 1 hot key on or off. And the toggle switch made no difference

For what it's worth, I noticed the shift indicator flash and was able to hear the fuel pump prime when turning the toggle switch back on

Using your preferred test light. All of those check out good. And yes, the kill switch made the light go out. I also tested for voltage on D2_4. Key on it has 12.08v and when I turn the kill switch off I get 1.82v

Absolutely! I will do that as soon as I get home from work. I appreciate you taking the time to help me with this Last night I took it easy, was hot and humid. Noticed the tail lights were thrown on with whatever they had laying around. The driver side only had one screw holding it on and the passenger side had three deck screws in it! So I went through my tub of jeep hardware and found some proper screws to install

What else do you think is on that circuit that I can test for power? For what it's worth, this is a 2.5L, not a 4.0L. I know some stuff is different between the two

Yes, the toggle switch kills power to the fuel pump. The guy I bought it from actually told me how he thought the fuel pump was bad, changed the fuel pump out just to find out the switch was off. It goes from the scotchlok to toggle switch then toggle switch to the "RR Wipe" spot in the fuse block.

That does sound a lot easier lol just found one on amazon for $20 bucks At work, we make solenoid valves, some using 48awg but most between 38-43awg. None of which are fun to work with. I'm actually an automation tech and went through tech high school and college for electro mech and low voltage elec. I guess you could say I'm a glutton for punishment So I have a good understanding of electrical stuff, its just these damn eyes lol

Here is where the other side of the toggle switch goes. In the "R R WIPE". My neighbor said the wire tap is on a red or maybe pink wire, maybe he's colorblind too lol I'm guessing they tapped into it because it wasn't getting power from where it was supposed to? And now they're getting power from the fuse box and put it through a toggle for, safety? I would like to do a more proper fix and eliminate the toggle switch if possible. The yellow label says " fuel interrupt circuit, fuse link"

Hmm, I have a cruise control stalk (that I assumed was wired in since the rest of the functions on the stalk work) and the parts under the hood. I wonder why they would have cut the wires and stuck them out there? And I wonder if itll be as easy as connecting the wires together again or possibly just replace the stalk and there be no underlying issues. Thanks for the help! I guess thatll be another thing to add to the list of things to figure out why the PO did xxx lol I just downloaded an 88 MJ electrical manual, hoping it should be pretty close to my 87. Trying to figure out some of the other wires/connectors now. Some I should be able to find on my own by matching up the connector like ohm did for me but other things like wires I need help with because I'm colorblind

Never seen a connector like that before and don't even have a guess as to what it could've been for lol but it looks like it's part of the factory harness

Yes, this has an AX5 so makes sense that C261 goes no where. Thank you! I got another picture of where the wires by the turn signal stalk go to as well. Ill try to upload them

One of the studs was missing in mine too but I found a bolt that had the same thread and cut it to the proper length and it works fine.

Fixed the rear brake line and got them bled with the help of my wife. Used parts I had in the garage which made life a little harder. Had to cut off one of the fittings under the jeep because it stripped the union out. Upon reflaring, noticed I forgot to put the fitting on but third times a charm and got it sealed up. Another nice thing I noticed is how clean the underside seems to be. Still lots of factory paint and/or undercoating. The only rust I can see from underneath is a hole in either floor pan which I knew about I also did cruisers tips 9 and 18. The ECU connections seemed perfectly fine but at least it gives me peace of mind. I wanted to continue on with tip 3 so I started to take the driver side headlight bezel and blinker housing out but stripped a couple screws. Looks like those are kind of a PITA fix too. I looked up and found people extract the screw by whatever means necessary and then fill it in with epoxy and redrill the hole. I'm sure Ill have several to do. Any and all comments, criticism, suggestions or thoughts are welcome! I don't bite and I have thick skin! Id love some help with the two crank start and identifying the random wires/connectors. Its difficult for me to post pictures on this forum so to have to do that in multiple threads doesnt make sense. And I think it makes more sense to keep everything in one place rather than spread out all over the forum to avoid asking/answering the same questions