Noendnsight

Regardless the factory hoses have long been nla. Guys say use Cherokee, the oId dry rotted one, or a flex hose. I remember a long time ago someone here spoke of trying to get some made and they shot him down fast much like I am with trying to get involvement on small batch of truck toppers. The return hose surely could flex that little amount if it was in fact reversed 180. I can see these as being yet another easy small batch run thing but from what I've experienced already, I see why it's taken 30 years to get aftermarket support here. Guys gripe but are quick to shoot anyone down willing to step it up.

Will a Cherokee one not work?

Is it a Renix 4.0 closed coolant system(factory setup for 87-90)? If so and you replace 1, multiple, all or anything in the coolant system you'll most likely have air trapped in the head. The problem will come back. The air will need purged for it to ever work properly. There is several ways one can go about doing so. There should be several on here. I should mention the heater core can too depending on what's been replaced and in what order. It usually takes several times following any procedure to remove all the air. It will include opening up the heater vents to cycle coolant through heater core at operating temps so the thermostat is open. It helps to know what tstat you have and follow your temp guage on cluster if you have one. All mine typically jump after hitting around 210 after idling a bit with air trapped. The air can give false readings on the temp gauge which it will suddenly climb and usually boil over at tank if you don't catch it. If your system is fully operational and in good working order, it seems to happen very fast under normal conditions. That's because everything is sealed and the system is closed. The hydrolocking happens faster which makes it seem that the problems worse than before but it's just the opposite. You just need to be patient and take your time to learn by repeating the process and digesting in your mind how the system functions. Most guys will just tell you to swap it to an open system.

It's around $4/gal for 87 in Brownsburg, IN.

Now I'm beginning to think this might not be as easy as I thought.

I really don't need the plug/connectors I don't think anyhow. I'm primarily interested in the pins that go into firewall connection and probably whatever I find at the other ends of the wires if they need replaced as I trace and replace wire. I have many bad spots from what appears from a fire from the last owner as well as critter food in other spots. It basically has many bad spots. I figure any harness at this point is over thirty years old. It wouldn't be that hard to just lay it out on a bench and repair one wire at a time. I'm after new pins and the removal/install process as well of any specific tools required.

Does anyone know where I can find a harness plug pin type master list? I'm trying to rewire my harness completely and I'm looking for info on how to remove the pins from the connectors and what type to buy for complete replacement using the same factory original plugs. I guess if there is a list of those for new replacements would be great too. I tried under the electrical master list and couldn't find it.

One could also consider using good rust free 2 dr doors to patch bed sides or rear 2dr xjs as well. I'd hate to cut up a good 2 dr xj door for a patch as much as I'd enjoy cutting up a good entire bedside. To each his own but a universal passenger patch for a little over a hundo shipped seams like a cheap no brainer alternative. They may have hit a grand slam with these if 2 dr xj guys like and use them. They are also just small enough to ship on the cheap. My hats off to Key Parts for everything they do.

Kinda, I'm saying that a passenger side could potentially fit any side any bed as well as make either side of a 2 Dr xj rear larger using a Mj flare. There are no 2dr xj rear quarter panels. They have been discontinued long before covid and many have noted this in other posts and sites. They might maintain the profile to match the xj, look factory, and give a larger wheel opening. Again it's just speculating thinking outside the box. Bottom line, I'd rather have more patch than less if it's the same price. You have to cut metal regardless. None of it going to bolt up plug and play. So I'll be ordering a passenger side and giving it a go myself. I have 1 of all jeeps mentioned.

I think your missing my point entirely. I know that, it's stated on the site. Again it seems like a passenger side could possibly be a universal for those with multiple trucks such as I. I also wonder if it could be an option for 2 dr xj guys that might wish to try running an mj flare. It might give a more factory appearance with a slightly wider opening. Again this is pure speculation and curiousity at this point thinking outside the box.

I'll add they bind quickly if your not squared up. Patience is key. Sometimes backing pressure off and repositioning a few times does alot. Try tapping the ear and walking away under pressure. Many times I've gone in to grab a beer to see it dropped loose on its own 5 minutes later. Most likely your not squared up perfect going too tight too fast.

Which kit you have would be helpful. They have different ones. Some come with way more adaptors than others. There should also be a tool number listing at the store. If you look at the counters, there are pictures of the different tools you can rent with the numbers next to them. I think I always get the big "master" kit from advance because it is a more complete kit with everything enough to get it done in one. It's been awhile though and the box stores seem to change kits every couple years. AutoZone for years had a master kit cheap to rent. Now it seems they make people rent 2 kits to get the job done. Amazon has a small shim kit for like 30 bucks with shims that are near perfect for stock 2wd and 30s front axles. https://www.amazon.com/BTSHUB-Service-Installation-Adapters-Compatible/dp/B08S6LQ7TM/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?crid=ARPOUKYOO3CI&keywords=jeep+cherokee+ball+joint+press&qid=1636678604&sprefix=jeep+cherokee+ball+%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-11

Is anyone else curious if a passenger side might work with any side long or short? Like could one not simply cut around for the fuel door themselves if need be the case for a swb driver side?

They do not sell to the public. Places like Quadretec most likely will take a few days to update the new info is my guess.

Supposedly these will be coming to market soon at Key Parts next month.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!

I didn't see "Secret Window" 2004. Start looking around 58:37.

Bad, I basically acquired an abandoned project that is a shell or blank canvas so to speak. I can't complain since it was free. It was hacked up bad on the transmission tunnel appearing to be cut rather high. I'm wondering if it would be easier to just cut one from a cherokee and be done vs. trying to piece it all in. I think you may have miss understood me that I'm not trying to cut the unitbody center section but just the entire floor pan the same size back in a cherokee to use in a comanche. I don't see how that would make a difference structurally. I'm wondering if the two are only different around the transmission tunnels to allow more room for the bucket seats since they sit lower due to the shooter floor brackets between the two. It might be nice I'm thinking to allow an easy full console with parking brake conversion. Also easy peasy direct xj swap seats. I'm guessing tall people though might lose an inch or two of head room.

I believe the shroud he was referring to was the plastic around the column. Mine was disconnected and not working too. The cable looked like it ran through there and I'm guessing to the back of the guage cluster since the indicated thing moves there. I don't have the indicator on the column. Maybe there is different cables for different setups and different cable mounting locations. I just have a wire with nothing attached to the end. I'm guessing something broke.

Does anyone know why the transmission tunnels are slightly different? Has anyone just tried swapping in an entire cherokee floor section in instead?