jeepmjga

Well a few progress updates. After much BS with the title I finally got it registered and legal. Finally got my bumpers from Dirtbound after 4 month wait time so slapped those on. Good fit and easy to install and they look great, just took forever to get here. Also got my Alcans so I was able to finally put the lift on. Turned out pretty good I think. 4.5” Rubicon Express Super Flex components up front, 4" Alcan springs in the rear with an RE shackle and it all levels out pretty nice. Need to put an axle seal in the CAD disconnect side and still having some weird steering issues but ball joints should be here tomorrow and we will see if that fixes it.

Awesome thanks for the heads up I will check out the aftermarket lights guys. Scored everything else I needed from here, love this place!

Been researching this myself recently after replacing the speakers with some decent ones. I think I'm gonna go with this compact kicker setup, has tons of good reviews and I think it will give just the right amount of bump without sacrificing what little space we have in the back of the cab. A little pricey but I think it'd be worth it. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20611HS8/Kicker-11HS8.html

Just saw this. If you got em let me know, thanks!

Small update, waiting on rear springs from Alcan and bumpers from Dirtbound but have replaced steering box, tie rod ends and hoping to put new rear wheel bearings and seals in this weekend. Had a friend custom 3d print me a sick shift knob. Painted and finished tonight...

Cool I will keep an eye out for ya if I'm over that way!

Awesome I will check it out thanks! Btw where are you in ATL? I'm in East Lake area.

Actually found a set of decent whole door panels and armrests yesterday for a decent price. I'll update the orig post. Thanks for looking out though!

Well the interior is done for now, got the stereo in and all wired up, but still on the hunt for some replacement interior pieces. Now its just a waiting game for my new title to come in the mail, then ill finally be able to get this exhaust done and after that, just waiting on rear springs and bumpers.

I'm guessing light? Didn't realize there were two shades whoops! Speaker grills I could go either way, just trying to get a factory cover over the opening. The PO put 6.5"s in and screwed the grills into the door through the panel.

Edit: Found everything I was looking for, thanks everyone!

Very random but I'm rewatching the X-files for like the 6th time and just spotted a Comanche in the very beginning of S6E1! It's driving away from the van on the opposite side of the road. Ok, you may now resume your day, that is all.

Well, after much ado about nothing it seems, I finally took it for a legit drive around the neighborhood today! Clutch works great, brakes work great after a lot of head scratching and replacement parts. Ended up going with the Wilwood prop valve and deleting the rear height valve even though it turns out I probably didn't need to. Hopefully can make it to the exhaust shop on friday and then its on to figure out this dash electronics situation while waiting on the rear springs and bumpers. Thanks again to everyone that chimed in on the brake thread, this really is a great community! Cheers!

Well, first off thanks to all the help here. Secondly, I'm a dummy. The calipers were actually on the wrong sides, I guess I misunderstood what "bleeders on top" meant. They way I had them, the bleeders were above the brake line, it never dawned on me that they should be the other way until today. Live and learn I suppose! I ended up going with a Wilwood prop valve and deleting the rear height valve anyway after making that nifty adjustable set up. I guess at least now everything in the system is new except the lines Pics in my build thread, thanks again for all the suggestions and from now on going to always step back for a sec when I run into another problem.

Yes, its a new booster with new check valve. Thats how I understood it. When I opened the front bleeder everything else was still closed, then I went to pump pedal to bleed rears and fluid is still just pumping out of the open front bleeder, which makes me think the bypass is not activating? I will try that tomorrow, so you just slowly pumped and released the pedal while it was already installed and truck off?

Well, I am at a loss here. Installed the new m/c and booster today. Bench bled the master, installed everything then bled the entire system just like before, accounting for the prop valve and everything and STILL the pedal falls straight to the f-in floor when I turn the truck on. The booster is working and there is good vacuum to it. Something I did notice is that when I push the pedal all the way to the floor the motor almost wants to stall out like there is some sort of weird vacuum issue going on. Also, maybe the old heads can give me some advice here, when I go to activate the bypass valve by keeping a front bleeder open and pressing the pedal, it seems to me like its not working correctly because when I go to bleed the rear brakes fluid is just pumping out of the open bleeder. I was under the impression that when the bypass valve activates it diverts all braking to the rear wheels because its simulating a front brake failure. Am I wrong here or is there something I'm not doing right? I guess if I can't figure this out my next step is going to be to delete the height prop valve and go with a different setup, which is what I was trying to avoid. Anyone got any ideas? Also frustrating because this is the last thing keeping me from driving it.

So just an update for anyone following. I vacuum bled the entire system today, then re-bled it again using standard procedure (no vacuum). Definitely no air in the system, the pedal builds pressure and stays steady when the truck is off and the brakes are holding, as in I can't move the rotors/drums when the pedal is pressed in while the truck is off. Then when I start it, pedal goes straight to the floor. Fairly certain there is some sort of failure in the booster chambers somewhere. Will hopefully have some better news on Saturday after I replace the MC/booster.

Well the new stuff should be here by the weekend so I will let everyone know the outcome. After the new mc and booster that should be all the parts of the system except new distro blocks and height valve so hopefully this is it. Thanks for everyones input so far!

Yea mine is pretty rusty like fluid has been dripping down the front of it for a while, makes me think the master is leaking out of the seal where the rod goes into it. From my understanding you need to leave the front bleeder open to simulate a front brake failure so the bypass valve will activate, otherwise you won't be able to fully bleed the entire system. I ordered a new master and booster anyway since it's likely they are still originals. Going to put all four on jack stands tomorrow and then try bleeding one more time tomorrow just for kicks and see what happens.

Calipers are installed correctly with bleeders on top. Two person bleed every time used clear tubing into bottle with a some fluid already in it. When bleeding individual wheel it was pump and hold, open bleeder until i see solid fluid coming into tube then close bleeder. Repeat process for each wheel at least 3 times. Then check fluid in master cylinder. This is process i used... Bleed entire system normally, pass rear > drivers rear > pass front > drivers front Opened pass front bleeder, press pedal to floor and release Bleed pass rear > drivers rear Close front bleeder Bleed entire system again, pass rear > drivers rear > pass front > drivers front

Definitely double checked the calipers when I put them on so they are correct. So I bled it a few times doing the correct procedure for the prop valve but I was still getting pedal to the floor. The procedure I did was this... Bleed entire system normally, pass rear > drivers rear > pass front > drivers front Opened pass front bleeder, press pedal to floor and release Bleed pass rear > drivers rear Close front bleeder Bleed entire system again, pass rear > drivers rear > pass front > drivers front Still getting pedal to the floor, but it will stop and lock up the rear brakes. I was looking at the MC last night and noticed there is no bleed screw, so I am assuming I would need to pull it off and bench bleed? If so I was thinking about just going ahead and replacing MC and booster since its not too expensive. Thoughts?

No not yet, that was also my thought for the next step. I figure theres still got to be air in the system somewhere.

Well a sort of successful end to the weekend. Finished up the floor and put the seat back in and scored some sweet floor mats from the local Advance Auto. Managed to make a new bracket and cobbled together an adjustable rod for the rear height valve. However, the brakes don't want to seem to bleed so thats the next conundrum. I did drive it around the block under its own power though. Clutch works smooth and the motor seems to be running pretty good for just having a downpipe for exhaust. After brakes are figured out, its on to the exhaust shop. Cheers!

I have an extra box of black noico mat that I didn't use if you want it send me a pm. I only used the one box for my floor, roof, and back panel so you should be good.

So I've been scouring the forums on a solution, but wondered if the gurus could offer any more advice. Replaced all of the brake components front and rear, new stainless lines front and rear. Did not replace booster or master cylinder. I have bled the system multiple times in the correct order and doing the bypass bleed as well. Cobbled together this replacement adjustable setup for the height valve. The local ACE was out of spherical rod ends so I couldn't do the hornbrod upgrade. So I am getting some pressure build up when the truck is off, but the pedal dumps to the floor when I turn the truck on. It will stop and lock up the rears while driving but I have to press the pedal all the way to the floor. My next thought was to the replace the rear height valve, I have thought about eliminating it but I think its a cool old school feature and want to keep it if possible. An extra came with the truck but unsure if its in working condition or not. Is there a way to tell if its working properly other than just disconnecting it and seeing if the brakes work? Thanks for any suggestions. On a good note, the motor is running well and the clutch is nice and smooth and I drove it up and down the street under its own power for the first time since I've had it!