zaconrad

No all the pushrods are straight. I also just swapped heads and the problem still persist.

Iv done all of those I know it's not the piston. It goes away when you take the rocker off. I've checked lashe it's consistent with all the others. I just pulled the head and all the valve are straight and in good shape as far as I can tell.

Hi everyone I have a 1990 jeep 4.0. It has a very bad slapping noise coming from the valve train. I've traces it to the number 6 cylinder. I know it's not bottom since I've taking the whole engine apart trying to find this issue. I ran the engine with out the valve cover and noticed that one of the pushrods is spinning a lot slower than all the rest. All the lifter have been replaced and it has a brand new cam with less than 100 miles on it. Anyone have ideas?

So super late update. I ended up putting the Edelbrock aluminum head on it with the smaller and better chamber design. I got it dyno tuned and it ended up making around 250whp. It seemed to like 29 degrees at wide open and 32 at cruse. I also live at in Denver CO so I'm around a mile above sea level.

Go to a junk yard and pull them off a similar year xj. The doors are pretty much the same.

Have you checked the iac valve? That would be my guess.

I reupholstered my comanche using the Raybuck covers and I really like it. My recommendation would be to also get new seat foam and do it all at once.

Yeah a 31 is the max for a Dana 35. If you want to go bigger you should replace the rear axle with something else. You would also be doing yourself a favor long term.

So I am using the Holley Hyper Spark System so I can control the time through software. For me sequential was not that important. I'm running the Ford Blue large body 24 lb injectors. The one thing that I had a problem with is that since their Ford injectors their made to use a 42 psi fuel pump. On my Comanche I'm using a 60 psi Holley pump. What I did to solve this is I told the Holley software that the they were rated for 60psi and I also told the system that the engine was smaller than it actually is.

Sorry for the super late response:( It's a 1995 engine. I boarded and stroked it to a 4.6 with 10.5:1 compression. I did put a aftermarket cam in it. It's a comp cams Extreme 4x4 218/226. Specks are, 218 @ .50 for the intake, 226 @ .50 for the exhaust with a lsa of 111. The EFI system is were it gets interesting. As far as iv seen I am one of the first if not the first person to use a Holley Terminator X MPFI system with the 4.0 paried with the Holley hyper spark distributer and coil for the AMC 4.2. Currently I have it set up with 9 degrees at idle 37 degrees at cruse, and 34 degrees WOT.

Hello everybody, I have a jeep 4.0l with an aftermarket ecu. I was wondering what the cranking timing, and idle timing are.

If your willing to spen the money dead jeep makes a ax15 conversion kit. It comes with the trans, transfer case, bell housing, and clutch. Just watch out though because it made for a cherokee so you will probally have to get new driveshafts.

Stick with the cable. Its way cheaper and easier. the worst that would happen with that would be you buying a new tps and iac from Holley to fit with their wiring harness.

The one thing for me that stood out about Holley's system was how customizable it is. The Holley system is mostly plug in play. Another thing that great about it is that you can do mostly every from the included display.

Assuming the the LQ4 can use the same harness as the LS you can just use the wiring harness that Holley makes for the LS. Another option would be using Holley's universal wiring harness.

Does the Edelbrock head come with better valve springs?

Thanks Ill look into it

I ended up buying the Clegg stage 4 stoker kit with the floating wrist pin connecting rods and the molly piston rings given the higher compression ratio of 10:1. I have chosen to go with the .030 over pistons making this engine's total displacement 4.6L. This almost completes the bottom end of the engine given that it comes everything you need with the exception of the gaskets, timing chain and a couple of other smaller things. For the camshaft I decided to go with the Comp Cams 4x4 218/226 camshaft for the jeep 4.0. It is worth noting that because of this Cam's higher lift different valve springs will be needed. Comp Cams also make a kit with the camshaft and a double roller timing chain which is what I have chosen to go with. For valve springs Comp Cams recommended a company called Hughes Engines. they specialize in most Mopar engines. When I called them about Valve springs for the higher lift camshaft they recommended part number 1110p. They said that these springs will handle the high lift great and will also eliminate the problem with valve float on this engine allowing me to hopefully run this engine out to around 5700 RPM. https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-4x4-218-226-hydraulic-flat-cam-sk-kit-for-amc-199-258-4-0l.html http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?browse=search&search=110P&submit=Go&partid=35162

Ok I figured it out. I don't know how but I was having alternator issues wich was the result of this problem. After I fixed my alternator problem went away.

I'm still having problems with the diagnosis.

I don't have a diagnostic tool. Or is there something else that I'm missing?

I have made no changes to the coil since it was driving fine. The red wire is were its supposed to be.

Already did If something was wrong with the coil it wouldn't have started

everything on the coil looks good.

I have a 1986 Jeep Comanche and today it started. Now when I turn off the ignition and take out the key it just keeps running. I just replaced the lock cylinder so I don't think its that. Any ideas?