rmb2485

I picked up a set of doors for parts and this was under the door panel on the driver’s door. Unfortunately I have no idea the status of the rest of the truck.

Not sure of the size. Mine were rusty as well and I had to drill the head off of one to get it all apart since the PO had stripped it at some point. They just thread to the sheet metal, so I just grabbed some screws from my collection of random hardware that were close in size to the originals and they worked fine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are tabs by each screw. Zoom in of the top left screw on the picture I posted and you can see a little notch / slot going down parallel to the screw. Slide a very small flathead screwdriver down that notch and it will open up the tab. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just to clarify, that doesn’t actually send exhaust gas to the intake, it sends warm air from around the exhaust manifold to the intake. It just connects to a flange on the outside of the exhaust manifold. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just started doing the same thing, although mine isn’t as jacked up as yours. To pull the fuse panel apart, undo the screws at the top left and bottom right, pry up on the tabs on the side of each screw location, and then pull the front of the panel off. There’s enough slack in the wires to work back there. For the broken terminals, get some ATO / ATC fuse block terminals and replace the broken ones. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just did one of these today when one of those screws snapped while I was replacing turn signal sockets. I drilled a very small pilot hole through the center of the broken off screw, then used a larger left handed drill bit and the broken screw caught and backed out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This honestly only took fifteen minutes, and half of that was the first attempt of just cleaning it up. Always good to have different options. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure if this has been posted yet; I searched and didn’t see anything. My cargo light on the back of the cab never worked since I’ve had the truck. Finally got around to it today and found that it did have power at the connector and continuity through the light itself, so the issue was the ground. The light is grounded through the mounting bolts, but the connection from the bulbs to the bolts relies on metal molded to plastic in the light, which in my case was loose and rusted. I cleaned up all the connections with fine grit sandpaper, grabbed some new bolts, and put it all back together. That got one bulb working but not the other. From there I decided to just add a legitimate ground and be done with the issue. I added a jumper wire between the ground posts on each end of the light and added a pigtail wire with a ring terminal on the end to one post. Cut a bit of the rubber mounting gasket to clear the new ground wire and terminal, bolted the jumper to the cab and tucked the extra wire into the cab, and bolted the light back to the cab. With this setup the light now works perfectly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1989 Jeep Comanche Pioneer short bed Specs: 4.0L / 5 speed / 4WD / Dana 30 / Dana 35 Build date: Sticker is worn off Current Location: Lehigh Valley, PA Status: Lives in my garage and is driven for fun. Overall the entire truck is in excellent shape. Notes: All original except for a Rusty’s 3in lift and 31in ATs. As of 04/2020 it’s got 217,xxx miles on it. Current owner: Me

I just recently got all new window run and belt line seals from them (everything in the kit you posted except the door weather strip). It all fit well and the quality seems pretty good overall. Installation took maybe an hour and a half and wasn’t difficult. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk