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JimB

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Everything posted by JimB

  1. Just about every time I stop for gas. Not for sale.
  2. I have been viewing this site for many years. Just joined a month ago. (My bad.) Never could find the answer to my problem so I just kept looking and never joined to ask. (Really my bad) My 1986 MJ (everything swapped from a 1987 XJ 20 years ago) I went from a 4 cylinder 4 speed 2 wheel drive power nothing to a 4.0, AW4, 4 wheel drive, bucket seats, center console, power windows power door locks, power brakes. Seemed like the thing to do at the time. The XJ was pretty peppy when I got it. Dunked it in a water hole not realizing how deep it was. Well water came over the hood engine stalled. Sitting there looking at the sky I was able to restart and pull out of the hole. I now know why people at the beach went around them. I sputtered home. Pulled distributor cap wiped all the water out. Ran good as new. After a few weeks it started getting hard to start and lacking power. Somedays it would start right up and power was back. Felt like I was towing a tank on the bad days. Finally everyday was a bad day. Did a full tune-up. Changed CPS. Nothing helped. Decided it was time to get a new Jeep. Found a used 1997 Grand Cherokee.(This was in 2000) Dealer said he would only give me $1000 trade in due to the mileage 160,000 on the XJ. It was in perfect shape inside and out. The MJ was my go to Lowes truck. Sometimes the MJ would flood out due to a TBI wire shorting out, (I later found out later during disassembly.) So I really did not trust it. So now I had a 97 ZJ, 87 XJ, 86 MJ. Really did not need three vehicles. So I decided to strip the XJ and move everything to the MJ. Drilled the spot welds for the radiator support and welded into the MJ. Pushed back firewall upper left side for cylinder head clearance. All this without the help of the internet. Decided to rebuild engine while I had it out.. Remember it still lacked power. Swapped seats, doors, dash, wiring harness'. Checked and made sure all electrical connections were clean and tight. I was getting really excited, this thing is going to fly. Well the day finally came. Fired right up. Went to give it gas and it spit and sputtered backfired out the throttle body. I felt like crying. Started messing with the distributor. Since rotor was not pointing at number one and I could not turn it (hold down fork) Pulled and moved one tooth CCW tried it, moved 2 teeth CW. Fired right up no more spit, sputter and backfiring through TB. I was one happy camper. Jumped in thinking I was going to spin a tire and well it ran good just no power. Started throwing parts at it. New TPS, AIC, MAP, coil, injectors, temp, distributor, knock, FPR, cat, muffler, fuel pump. I actually had a printout of all engine sensors. Started highlighting each one as I replaced them. (All of them) Still no power. Well 20 years ago the internet was not like it is today. But I would still search for answers. Finally came across Cruiser54s list years ago. Started going through the list. Only doing what I though would make a difference. Cutting tabs and indexing distributor, refreshing grounds, C101 removal etc. It seemed like every little bit helped. But it just wasn't right. So I barely drove the MJ. It just sat there most of the time. Unless I needed to haul something or a trip to Home Depot, Lowes. Which wasn't very often. My job kept me on the road most of the time. (Most of my life.) Well Covid came along. Work came to a crawl. I went out back and was ready to cry. My baby was looking pretty bad. Years of pollen caked on. Dirt, mildew, the tires I had put on 3 or 5 years ago still look brand new. Well I said I have had enough. I was going to fix it no matter what. So I started reading this forum all over again. I mean hours and hours every night. (Having a problem sleeping). Decided I was going to start fresh doing Cruiser54's list. And I mean starting with number 1. When I got to number 8 TPS testing and adjusting. I about $#!&. Hooked meter from TPS ground wire and negative post on battery. I got1.2 ohm. Wiggled wiring harness and the meter went all over the place. Had to do it three or four times. Jumped to tip 6. All looked good. Used meter and checked both sides of crimp and I was amazed. I then cut the wires, soldered, heat shrunk. Adjusted the TPS perfectly. Took it for a test drive. Unbelievable. This engine has not ran this good in 20 years. I am now going to bring it back and make it my daily driver. It is too late to put back stock, so I am going to dress her up and make her like new. Sorry so long. Doubt anyone is going to read all this. I am just so happy right now. And if Cruiser54 happens to see this, I owe you big time. Thanks you so much. Jim Burriss.
  3. you do not have to drop the tank to pull the pump. But since it has sat for a long time it might be a good idea. Mine had a white chalky residue mess all over the inside of tank. Pulled tank after putting new pump on and it only lasted lasted a few weeks.
  4. Wow want your money back?
  5. Not to sound dumb. Have you tried turning the headlight switch knob clockwise? This is how you adjust the brightness for the cluster lights. As for the solid turn signal light. Check and make sure the front and rear bulbs, on right side of truck are good. A bad bulb will cause the indicator light to stay illuminated.
  6. Thankyou you guy s are the best.
  7. They are used to hold the split loom. I am missing two. Thanks for the response. Jim
  8. Can someone tell me what this part is called? I have been searching for quite some time. Weather to bad to go to JY.
  9. Do you still have any washer reservoir tanks left?

    1. 500 MJ

      500 MJ

      Yes, Send you a Private Message.

  10. Fantastic Love your attention to detail.
  11. This is my first post so please bear with me. I have been doing the 97+ swap. Everything is almost complete except the fender flares. The front flares from the 1999 Cherokee donor were a simple swap. The rears are totally different. I knew that from reading this forum for years. However while holding the flares up to the body it appears the forward half matches the contour of the bed. When I swapped the LS and RS flare, the rear half matched the contour. Has anyone tried cutting the flare in half and bonding them back together? Will take two flares to make one. Has this been done before? Any tips or pictures?
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