Zenobian_84

Ok, after an entire afternoon, I've basically solved my problem by playing a guessing game (sort of). Here's what I've found out. 1994 XJ Radio Wiring ------------ 1987 MJ Radio Wiring Constant 12V - Pink ||| Constant 12V - Red/Gray Switched 12V -Purple/White ||| Switched 12V - Purple/Orange Ground - Black ||| Ground - Black *Illumination - Light Blue/Red ||| Illumination - Blue? *Dimmer - Orange ||| Dimmer - Orange/Black? *Antenna Trigger - Purple/Orange ||| Antenna Trigger - N/A? --Front Speakers-- Left Front (+) - Dark Green ||| Left Front (+) - Green Left Front (-) - Brown/Red ||| Left Front (-) - Black/White Right Front (+) - Purple ||| Right Front (+) - White Right Front (-) - Dark Blue/Red ||| Right Front (-) - Black --Rear Speakers-- (Not Important Since I don't have any) ----- Left Rear (+) - Brown/Yellow Left Rear (-) - Brown/Light Blue Right Rear (+) - Dark Blue/White Right Rear (-) - Dark Blue/Orange ---------------- * --> Not sure if these are correctly connected (as I couldn't see any illumination in the unit when I was working on it.) Also have another problem as I can get A/M stations fine, and the speakers are correctly connected, but I don't have F/M access whatsoever. There also seems to be a wire missing, as I don't have a wire for the Antennae to splice with.... :hmm: Any thoughts? :dunno:

Please post up the make and Part number of these New Senders... For 1987 2.5's Pick and choose from the one's listed. Not sure if they are an exact fit though. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/searc ... ng+Unit%29 For Renix 4.0's (? Not sure about the HO's) and 2.1 Diesels http://www.makeitjeepparts.com/seccat/c ... 7/6/31427/

Found out that there are replacement fuel senders (Completely new to me.. :hmm: ) Next question is: Would a replacement sender have to be a floater, or can it be electronic?

This question is purely hypothetical, but important to know. If for some reason my fuel sender decides to take a dump, *knock on wood* since there are no retailers that sell replacement fuel senders, what would I have to do other than getting one from another MJ? Basically; fuel sender dies, don't want to find another MJ and nab fuel sender, which gas tanks are compatible to fit on the MJ? IIRC, I've heard that Dakota ones can be swapped because they're virtually the same... but am unsure at the moment... :hmm:

Yeah, I've been scouring there and on a few other sites to help answer my own question. Appreciate the link though. :cheers:

Thanks Jim. And yeah, I've discovered this several times within the last 3 weeks.... :headpop:

Went back to the junkyard a few hrs ago and picked up the 94 wiring harness. Just have to figure out which wires from the 87 go onto the 94...

Went to one of my local junkyards and found this beauty sitting where I hadn't bothered to look. If only I had some $ I would have picked up EVERYTHING inside. :fs1: :fs1: A treasure trove of factory AMC/Jeep parts! Including all you see above and even more inside the cab! Somebody has got to go get some of this stuff before it's dismantled completely and sent off to the crusher!

I'm not entirely sure that this can be done, considering the Radio in question came from a 94 XJ (4 door) The radio I picked up. And the reverse side, with the wiring diagram information. While I picked up the radio, I didn't think to grab the factory radio harness.... :doh: ------- After taking apart my dash bezel this morning. I took out the old Daewoo aftermarket radio (cheap POS) and the spidery harness that went with it. Afterwards, I was left with this. 1987 FACTORY WIRING: 1 Black 1 Blue 1 White 1 Green 1 Purple w/ Orange stripe 1 Red w/ Gray stripe 1 Orange w/ Black stripe 1 Black w/ Yellow stripe Can anyone help me out and tell me what each factory wire is for? I sure would appreciate it. I also found this plug next to the factory radio set up and am not sure what it's for... Wiring for the Plug 1 Black 1 Green w/ White stripe 1 White w/ Black stripe 1 Black w/ White stripe 1 Black (cut at the base) 1 Black w/ Yellow stripe (cut at the base) 1 White (cut at the base) 1 Green (cut at the base)

'Fraid I don't follow what you're getting at Sir S. :hmm: :dunno:

Today I headed off to my local junkyards about 20 mins. away from where I live (with a "helper" in tow no less :shake: ) First I hit up the local Fruitland Park junkyard and dug around a bit. Found a 97 XJ that I pulled a Sony CD radio from. The girl charged me $25 for it, and at the time, I thought it was pretty fair. After helping my friend nab some stuff from 80's Monte Carlos for his 86 Grand Prix... I stumbled across this. A flashy red MJ, buried under grass and various other parts! :eek: :( :fs1: So... doing my "civil duty" not only to myself, but to everyone on the site here, I snapped some pictures. I6, in pretty good shape no less. Other than a few things missing, the engine was fairly intact and seemed to be all there. The VIN number. I have a few pictures of this and have sent them to Automan (Rob) so he can run the numbers and add to the registry. I didn't get any pictures of the interior though, although I saw it. It had aftermarket gray shag carpeting and a custom roof (reminds me of the old J10 roofs) It was either a 4/5 speed, and most everything was still inside. (except for the dash bezel, and radio). It had gray interior and manual windows. Door panels on the driver's side were in fair shape but the passenger's were ratty, (due to the window being down) There was also a fairly large hornets next inside which limited my searching and scrounging for stuff. As you can see from the first picture, There was a LOT of stuff piled on top of the bed. I counted 2 bed liners in relatively good shape (one on top of the truck) and the other was installed on the truck. It could have been the legendary "Comanche" bedliner I have been searching for :eek: but I couldn't see it because of the mass amount of junk piled inside. I would have also like to have nabbed the rims because they were a matching set, and matched my own exactly.... :( :( :( Needless to say, I left that junkyard with a grim attitude. I did manage to grab a straight "Comanche" emblem from the passenger's side of the MJ. I was also going to grab the taillights but I didn't have my Torx bit screwdriver :fs1: :fs1: So I tried my hand at another junkyard down the road though with high hopes (after stopping at a Taco Bell to rehydrate and eat) 105 Degree FL heat in a junkyard? :grrrr: The next one yielded better results. I was able to pull not only a passenger side rearview mirror for $20 in great shape, but I got this beauty for another $20. A perfect match for my Cassette tape holders I have in the truck :thumbsup: And I took back the other radio and got my $25 back. After wheeling and dealing, me and my friend left, and went back to my house, where I got a sweet 2.5 Litre badge for my tailgate. After installing the side view mirror, I believe I'll call it a day for now. Gotta have more work for another time you know.

Actually, I'm glad I could get another cluster, irregardless of whether it had a tach or not. It isn't that much of a PITA actually, and I can understand the gist of how everything works. The way I look at it, I can help others out from learning from my lack of know-how atm. :rotf:

Pffft. Well, I remember scouring many a thread and never seeing that. Although I did remember reading about adjusting it with a phillip's head.... :hmm:

you have the 2.5 right? how hot is that getting? do you have a potential over heat?... Guess thats one reason why you wanted a full cluster... my i haven't had any paint related issues with my 4.0 If you're standing in front of the truck and look at the hood, half the clear is gone directly over the engine and towards the right (where master cylinder is). Not to mention there's spots of rust starting to appear where they weren't before when I first got the truck. Not saying this is because of the engine getting hot (which it has been operating under normal conditions) but I don't want to take a chance with the possibility of engine heat causing the clear to evaporate (or something like that.)

Yeah, I was surfing through your thread earlier but no one really offered and solutions that sounded worthwhile to me (need the insulation to prevent the destruction of the rest of my paint and clear on my hood). I'll probably try to get one from an XJ next time I hit up my junkyard.

Finally decided on what I want to do with the truck. I've been really iffy ever since I got it on whether or not I want to mod it out, or keep it looking stock. Before I get into all that though, a quick picture of a near pristine 2.5 :rotf: A big improvement from this Anyway, after watching Twister for what seems like the 50th time :shake: it pretty much hit me. :doh: Ever since I was a little kid, it's been my favorite movie for a lot of reasons; but one of them happened to be because of this... The super cool 1979 J10 that Helen Hunt drives in the movie. I'm not even sure why this I didn't think of doing this earlier. Irregardless though, I think it would be a pretty cool thing to see, because not only does anyone hardly see J10's or MJ's on the road anymore, but an homage to both the movie truck, and the MJ would be pretty cool! Well... to me at least. ;) Hopefully, I can get working on this soon. Lastly, I'll leave with a comparison for you guys to decide if this would be a pretty cool idea or not.

Cool, thanks for the help. :bowdown: :cheers:

Just wondering if anyone else out there has an underhood that looks like mine.... And no, that is not dirt that's on the hood. :ack: Has anyone tried any aftermarket insulation to put under there; and if so, what's your preferred? I'm also going to assume that if I want to get insulation on the cheap, I'll probably have to hit up a junkyard, but if so, do I pull the insulation from an XJ or MJ? 2.5 or the 4.0?

Could be a loose wire where the installed switch is? :dunno: Other than the bulbs, a loose connecting wire, or something wrong with the fuse box, I'm not sure what the matter could be.

Thanks Jim, I appreciate the input. The cluster in question (4.0) is one I bought to replace my 2.5's Dummy lights (with no tach). I have the dummy light cluster still in the truck, and this one on the side. I'll probably end up waiting a while before I put it in though. Honestly, the tach really isn't a big deal to me, and I could care less whether or not it's geared to my 2.5, but it's always nice to have everything working correctly, y'know?

Ok, since I've done research both on the site, and google, I still have no answer to my first question. The question isn't how to get the tach out, it's where the potentiometer is located, and how to adjust it. Because anytime anyone asks what to adjust to make the tach register correctly, everyone always answers the same "Just adjust the potentiometer." I took some pictures to make it crystal clear to whomever decides to help me (which, I'll admit, I am frustrated, but I do appreciate the feedback, irregardless of whether it helps or not :bowdown: ) 1. Tach out of cluster 2. Tach flipped over. (as if you were looking at it from the back of the cluster) 3. Side of tach. 4. Circuit board underneath the tach. 100% sure there is nothing here to adjust. 5. After studying the tachometer, common sense would dictate that the arrowed tube in the middle would be the thing to adjust. Either that or..... 6. Something on top where the circuit board is located. Pretty sure there wouldn't be though... :hmm: So, with all this being said, am I correct in assuming that #5 is what I'm looking to adjust? If so, how do I adjust it correctly?

So once I get the tach removed, how would I adjust it to correctly display?

Picked this up last week from a member on the site, and I need some help identifying where the "Potentiometer" is. The cluster in question was swapped into an 88 4.0 MJ, and before that, was in another 4.0 MJ. I know that the thing has to be on the back where the tach is, but I don't just want to go unscrewing and fiddling with things willy-nilly. 1. If someone could point out to me where this thing is located, and how to adjust it (if it is even there and can be adjusted) I sure would appreciate it. Next question is probably simpler, but I'm just asking to make sure. Before I install the cluster correctly, will I need to make any adjustments to the new gas gauge to get it to read correctly since it's moving from the old spot in the middle to the corner spot?

Greetings comrades, it is I; back with more updates. This past week I was able to score a sweet AMC era gauge cluster from Blue88Comanche. This thing is sweeeet. More pictures of the cluster. Probably going to be setting up this thing in the truck within the next few days, so hopefully I'll do a writeup on that or some such. Another big problem I've been having is seriously rough idling problems, which I narrowed down to possibly a few things... 1. O2 sensor? 2. MAP sensor? 3. CCV blockage and valve gum-up? I decided to take the valve cover off the truck and peer inside the depths of my 2.5..... you can imagine my face when I saw this. Pretty spotless valves and no gum-up whatsoever. What I did find though was 24 years of blockage in the CCV valve, and my jury rigged blowby air inlet hosing. Took the CCV lines off and the air inlet hose adapter (which I nearly mangled to shreds trying to get the damn thing out :fs1: ) And my dad decided to help me clean everything up. I swear, my dad enjoys working on this truck almost (maybe even more...? :hmm: ) than I do. :rotf: This was a picture of the cleaning area for valve covers and general parts at the dealership where he works. While I had everything apart, I decided to replace the valve cover gasket with a new one I got for $10. Worked like a charm and sealed quite nicely. I noticed my idling got better due to the clean CCV line doing it's job (correctly) and I fixed my air inlet hosing with better parts than what I rigged up last time. I didn't get a picture of how everything looks now, but I'll snap one tomorrow and post it up. :cheers: Still going to keep the MAP and O2 sensor in the back of my mind. I have a strange feeling those are probably next to go. :doh: