Dammerung

Finally back after so long! I’ve done quite a bit with this truck since I’ve last posted. I managed to find an EGR solenoid and valve as well as replaced the fuel injectors. While I was putting the rail back on, I snapped the MAP vacuum line and just managed to get through Cruiser54’s fix. After all of that, I tried the truck again and it still has a “Lean Loop Fault” code from the Engine monitor. The only other things I could think of now which can be causing it to stumble are the block coolant sensor (because apparently it helps manage fuel/air mixture I guess?) a vacuum leak of some kind, or something in the ignition. Keep in mind, I’ve replaced the CPS and it reads around .3 volts, but I’m not too sure that it controls fuel/air mix, so that one is up in the air. I know there’s potentially a vacuum leak as under acceleration, the AC gets really weak. But I don’t know if the AC and engine vac are heavily linked. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On a side note because chances are I’m gonna be removing this trans cooler, radiator, and AC condenser in one fell swoop, what brand of radiator do you you guys recommend? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you use the original hard lines? Because mine are so shot that they’re leaking both for the hose clamps and the disconnects. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Appreciate it! I’m in California, and I don’t usually see less than 20 degrees where I’m at. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m finally moving into my transmission cooler lines, as they’ve been leaking constantly because someone did a nasty job while splicing in a transmission cooler. The horrible hose clamp job has led to it leaking ATF and melting the rubber stuff there as well as coating all the metal and wires. I’m sick of it and I don’t need a transmission cooler because I’m not hauling anything with it. What’s the way to go here?

I adjusted the tps a while back along with doing the sensor grounds and cutting the grounds that went through the c101 connector together. I honestly haven’t driven it enough recently to actually determine if the egr was the main issue. Death wobble, potential to stall, and the potential to not accelerate really don’t make me comfortable to drive it. But, it hasn’t bucked on me yet and neither has it stalled, so perhaps? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you plugged off your EGR like the others were talking about? If you’re looking at the EGR solenoid from the driver’s side fender, you have to plug off the elbow on the LEFT side of the solenoid, near the electrical connector. Since I screwed up my egr, I haven’t been driving mine until yesterday where I drove it without any bucking happening. I’ve replaced the spark plug wires, CPS, and O2 sensor, if you want to know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I plugged off the EGR and now it’s back to how it was originally, so we’re still at square one. I’m gonna try to get a new distributor and go up to Sacramento or Stockton to their pick n pulls to get an EGR and that Ignition module. Any brand recommendations for the distributor? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! When I was looking for ways to clean the EGR I heard something about the transducer spring rusting away into dust, so I pulled mine apart and it looked okay, but it still looks like the factory piece, so it’s probably not in the best of shape anyways. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wish I wasn’t. Stuck in Cali... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can’t keep something like this if it’s got a big chance to stall at idle and could get me in an accident if it decides to buck under throttle while in traffic. I can’t really do much else with it and it’s supposed to be my daily. Really sucks that there’s no part availability. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

New update. Just put the old EGR back on and it idles even WORSE now! I’m stumped because I can’t find another EGR valve and transducer if that even is the problem anymore. If I can’t figure this out, it might just be time to sell it and wait for another to come along . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, back again. Replaced the oxygen sensor, but I haven’t started it because I pulled the egr to look at the carbon build up and it. Was. FULL. Less than a quarter of the diameter of the original hole in the intake due to the big ring of carbon. So I waited to get the new egr, but the one I got does not look the same as the old one. Is it useable? Got it off RA for anyone wondering. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just brought up my CPS to drill out the hole to 3/8 like cruiser says to. While I was under there I noticed 2 things: one, there’s a steel cable underneath that isn’t connected to anything, like it may be cut. It’s in a bundle wrapped in some brass foil. Also, I checked my oxygen sensor for the hell of it and found that the three wires in the connector have some white crap in it, both on the male and female side. Am I right I’m assuming this is some corrosion? (I’m a youngster so I haven’t seen much in the way of auto work and connectors yet). Would I have to go about replacing that? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

At connector A in his diagram, which has the male end connector on the CPS, is where I stuck the probes in after I unplugged it from the harness. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They way I’ve done it is unplug the CPS and stick the connector with probes. That’s how I get my reading, so I don’t have any external power from the truck itself Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Replaced the CPS, but it’s still no good. It’s reading .28 now, so I guess I gotta take it off and drill it out. Also, another symptom I noticed is when I blip the throttle hard, when it comes back down, it hits around 200 RPM. Is this a potential symptom from the CPS? When I look at the monitor data, it says an open egr solenoid code on the data list with a sorted code for a lean loop fault. How would I deal with the lean loop?

Looked it up on cruiser’s site, (thank god a man like him is around) and it supposed to be .50 volts. Mine reads .248 volts so I guess I got a CPS to replace. Any brand recommendations? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is there a way to diagnose it or do I just replace it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, so I blocked off that elbow on the egr, but it still stumbles. That stumbling nearly got me into an accident yesterday when I tried to accelerate on a left turn. What else can I try? Could it be my IAC? I see no change when I unplug it, but I’ve replaced the IAC twice, so I’m not entirely sure. Is there a fuse or relay for the IAC or a grounding issue with it or something? Way back when I got my truck, it did not run right, as it would sometimes die and not even start, but jogging and replacing all the relays by the diagnostic ports managed to fix it. Could it be a problem there? Because I know the fuel pump uses a relay there. Also, on start up it struggles a bit and then hits 2000 RPMs. I don’t think this is normal and I think it may be related to the other issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! I’ll try it and get back to you Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve checked that as well. According to the NickInTimeDesign engine monitor that I’ve got, I have an open EGR solenoid code. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, and in reverse gear. When it’s in reverse the engine RPMs pulse a lot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So, it’s been a while since I’ve posted. My Comanche’s just come off a month long break due to coolant tank hoses and the tank itself being busted. Now that she’s back on the road, a few new issues have come up. The truck will now sometimes stall when on an incline or in reverse (Today was the first day I’ve driven it and it has done it twice, once while I pulled into my driveway and once when I reversed down it). It also stumbles and bucks under acceleration sometimes, though it isn’t consistent. One thing to note is that I don’t believe my idle air control valve is working properly, as I’ve pulled the plug on it multiple times with no changes to my idle. Could this be the reason behind this? Any help would be appreciated. 1988 4.0 Liter w/ AW4 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You have to remove the back panels with the dome lights and take out the two screws on each front trim piece near the windshield. You don’t have to take them out full, just enough for them to hang. There’s metal clips underneath that hold the headliner up Theres also the visors that are screwed in to the roof along with the holder clip in the center. There might be some other parts but I can’t remember off the top of my head. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk