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Everything posted by Dammerung
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What’s the most comprehensive kit you’ve seen for the front end that has like the track bar, drag link, pitman arm, ball joints etc. I’ve seen a few, but they are for 91 and up. Is there a difference between renix and HO? Or for the 2wd and 4wd? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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In California, so not really but there is the coastal areas which can really tear up cars. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I’m looking at a foxbody mustang for my old man, because he’s been looking to get a sports car again after owning pickups for so long. Is there anything particular to look out for on these cars? Anyone have experience with them? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Could be over-pressured Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I was reading 4.5 ohms Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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O2 does move between Rich and lean with the values being between 1.8 and 4.9 volts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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When it starts up, both are at 128, which is what I assume to be normal in an open loop startup. When it kicks into closed loop for the first time, LT stays at 128 and ST climbs from 128 up to around 250 before going back into open loop and resetting back to 128. Once it finally works as close to correctly as it can, the STFT bounces between 57-80 if I remember correctly. LTFT is constantly at 128, and I’ve seen no change. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Question for the people who have engine monitors - how does your O2 sensor perform when you start up? Mine stays near 4.98 volts and drops slowly while in Open loop before swapping into closed and running terribly because of the lean value. Then it swaps back into open loop. I personally don’t think this is how the sensor should be working, but I want to see if other people see the same thing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Cherokee seats won’t fit, as the floor pan was slightly different. You can cut off the brackets to your bench/buckets and reweld them on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I was 5 years old catching frogs when those tires were made. I’m looking into trying to get the front wheels done at least. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Took me a minute to find the code because they were on the other sidewall. They were made in the 20th week of 2008. I’m just gonna have to roll with checking the steering components myself and balancing these tires because I can’t afford new ones yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Only wheel that’s balanced is the spare. Since I pulled it out of the junkyard, I haven’t really dealt with tires other than cleaning the rims they’re on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Just got an alignment done a few days ago, hoping for a diagnosis on my steering and suspension. Turns out, they’re all still in decent shape, and they just aligned it. I took it past 55mph and she wanted to wobble again. I’m kind of stumped, because I was hoping they’d tell me what was up. The only part now that I know is not working right is the steering stabilizer because I can see the rubber seal sticking out. I don’t think just that stabilizer going could cause DW, but is it still a possibility? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Have you done the injector swap with the 746s? It hasn’t fully solved the problem for me, but it made it more tolerable. All those errors (except the lean loop fault) have gone away naturally, which I think is due to the computer resetting. To be honest, I think I might have an issue with the IAC because unplugging it does nothing or the MAP as my truck will get the “lean loop” fault when it’s in open loop (at least I think it’s open loop. It’s on start up, which is when open loop is used) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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That’s interesting! I know of a 90 Cherokee in a pick n pull yard near me. I’ll pull the sensor off of it and see if that works. The only thing is that my O2 sensor hasn’t been wacky until after these injectors were swapped in. I’ll still try it though, it’s better than doing nothing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Yeah that’s next on the list. I didn’t have any of those caps but I’m planning on going to an autoparts store to get them. Edit: just got a 5/16 vacuum cap and put a fuel line hose clamp on it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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After driving for a couple days, I’ve got some more news. I now get the lean loop fault and rich loop fault on startup, so I guess some sensor can’t handle me running nicer injectors. On the second startup, I got an O2 voltage code, which I’m not sure about. I don’t really think the 02 sensor is bad, considering I just replaced it with the NGK model. I’m not too sure what to do about this anymore. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Fully installed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Just finished getting all the fittings for the tank as well as cutting, welding, and painting the bracket for the tank Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/153133492767 That’s the tank I bought. I think I’ve worked it out now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Yeah, but that’d take my truck out of commission for a while. I don’t have the time to replace a radiator with my school and everything. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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What kind of hose clamps should I use?I don’t want to use the worm gears because they’re butt ugly and they’ve been letting me down recently. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Thank you Pete! I’ll look into getting one. This little tank is some universal eBay one that I’ll have to fix up to make it work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Wouldn’t the tank be pressurized still? I thought that an open system would have an expansion tank that is not pressurized. Or could I plug off that valve under the cap? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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So, I’ve decided to finally tackle my coolant system because after 3 plastic bottles breaking, I’ve had enough. I bought an aluminum tank to replace the plastic one and it uses a radiator cap. What I want to know is, what is the pressure rating for the closed cooling system? P.S - I won’t switch to open cooling until I get a new radiator at the very least Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
