88mancheman

Does anyone know of a good reputable company that is either making new TC for the aw4 or possibly good reman’s? After replacing my flex plate a while back I’ve still been getting an intermittent “knock” and a “cans in a rock” sound on occasion when coasting and then reapplying throttle, it seems to go away when the TC is locked but with my new REM I can see the knock sensor go up about 5units on occasion when the TC is locked indicating (hopefully) that the main issue all along is a bad or damaged TC, I’m going to try to bring it down to AMMCO one of these days as one of the other members here on CC mentioned that they do free or super cheap diagnoses but I figured I’d start the search now as it seems these little things seem to run in the $200-300 range [emoji22] but I’m not sure which direction to look for a quality unit any help would be greatly appreciated!!! -thanks in advance I know this is a weird one

Thank you for the response I’m leaning towards the factory outter as you stated it was designed that way and most of them have been just fine that way, I like the extra insurance but I’m not sure if it’s the best choice for my type of wheeling, I live in Cali and I’m trying to move the project alittle more towards a weekend crawler type rig (hopefully one day I can possibly take it to Moab or Shaffer lake or the rubicon without ruin any body panels) more than anything else, I do like to just go have fun on random back roads and what not and sometimes that includes a little bit of mud & water but I’m starting to think that the factory outer “seals” are just fine and that I’m going to have to drown the axle pretty completely and for a good amount of time for that axle tube to fill up, I don’t ever plan on that and I guess if I do that a whole seal replacement & fluid change would be in order afterwards anyways so I’m thinking those outers are more trouble that they are worth as they could hide a leaking axle seal or a packed axle

Thank you for the response, I don’t do a lot of mud wheeling or major water crossings but when doing major fixes such as this I always like to upgrade when I can so I hopefully don’t have to go back to it anytime soon just I n case there is that one time I end up in a decent crossing or mud pit, I just received both the stock outter ring “seal” things and some aftermarket ten factory greaseable outter seals and am still debating on what to put in when I do this next weekend, I’m leaning towards the factory rings as the factory designed the Dana 30 To be this way but just hoping there is someone out there with them on there MJ who could chime in as well to change my mind before i just throw some new factory rings on :)

Thank you for the recommendation, I have some of those ten factory outter seals on order currently will those suffice? I’m also seeing some alloy USA ones and a few other brands that just get more and more expensive but how important are these seals? I’ve been reading that they are a bad idea as they can trap water in and can possibly reduce the life of the inner seal and axle tubes as water can get trapped inside the outter seal is this just someone’s myth from not greasing them often or a realistic concern?

Thank you for the quick reply I have 2 of them on there way! The parts store as kept insisting that 42500 was the same thing but I know better than that

Hey all after a recent wheeling trip it seems my vent tube seemed to squirm off and it’s more than likely muddy water has gotten in there [emoji22] I’m going to pull it all apart and clean it up replace the seals and fluid and fix the vent tube this weekend but I’m seeming to have trouble figuring out which inner axle seals I will need for a Dana 30 non disconnect axle I’ve found many different brands and part numbers and I’ve come down to these part numbers from spicer : 46470 & 42500 Will these work or are these for the CAD axles? Hopefully someone here has tackled this before and can help me out

Hey all I'm sorry if I'm posting this in the wrong section but I was at pick n pull today and they had a Comanche sad to see but happy day for parts lol, anyway it was pretty far gone but there was a few pieces I grabbed before I left like the chrome front grill and the side vents that have been spray painted black I figured someone on here would be searching for these so I figured I would post it up here and see if anyone was interested before it goes into the sea of old parts lol I'll post pictures of them in a few once my phone charges up some

I will defiantly double check everything on the transmission and checkout the flexplate again but I’m slightly concerned about the black oil looking stuff that was coming out of the tail pipe I’ll have to update in better detail this weekend when I get back around to checking her out :)

Does the fan clutch have resistance when trying to spin the mechanical fan? A bad fan clutch could cause some overheating issues, as for the not starting, I would check to make sure 100% no wires are disconnected before going onto the next step turn the key on and off 2-3 times and then leave the key in the on/running position and check to see if fuel pressure is building/holding in the fuel rail ontop of the intake manifold here : If your getting fuel to the fuel rails then that is 1/3 things the engine needs to run and air is everywhere around it so that is 2/3 things, I would then start checking spark by pulling 1 of the spark plugs putting it back inside the spark plug boot and putting the spark plug against the block of the engine and have someone crank the engine and see if you see spark on the spark plug if so then that’s 3/3 things the engine needs to run and hopefully enough basic info someone with more knowledge of the Renix system can help out :)

Hey all after weeks and weeks of hard work the Comanche is almost ready for summer EXECPT... the ole 4.0 seems to be knocking somehow... she had a bad flex plate knock that I addressed last weekend but after I was all finished up I took her on a test drive she was perfect for the first 20 minutes or so but as soon as I came to a stop light and idled for a few minutes I noticed there was a slight knock, I pulled over and inspected and it defiantly sounded like the engine had a slight knock at idle but nothing past idle.. so I let her cool off and drove her slowly home listening for odd sounds, nothing happend on the drive home but as soon as I pulled her into the garage I noticed she was spitting a tiny bit of oil out the tail pipe onto the wall..... I shut her down and have been pondering what could have caused this, as the only 3 things I’ve done to the engine in the past 6 months have been a new radiator, flex plate and muffler.... then I got to thinking...the muffler I welded up was an old flow master off a friends 5.0 v8 mustang it was a the same diameter as the Jeep and from a v8 so I figured it would have a larger flow and work just fine, but is it possible that this muffler is causing too much back pressure and harming my engine? Or is this starting to sound like a rebuild...?

Here is a diagram to confirm your serpentine belt configuration (Note the idler above the alternator in this diagram is the AC unit on AC equipped 4.0’s) Here is a dirty picture of mine for comparison

Did you install the serpentine belt correctly?

Update flexplate is in and it runs! If anyone knows how to post videos here I can post up a video of it :)

The rule of thumb I learned back in collage was to reduce torque by 25-33% depending on the type of lubricant being used as like eagle stated it’s not the actual torque of the bolt that matters but more of the clamping force the bolt has against the other material, I tend to not wanna use “lubricant” on any threads unless they hold such a small torque value that i worry about them them backing out like the flexplate to torque converter bolts or odd things like that that only bolt 20-30 ftlbs becuase I feel that at Lower spec the bolt won’t reach its elastic point and achieve as much clamping power, just my thought process though [emoji106]

I will keep you updated as it goes in, I am setting up everything to put it back together now should have some definite answers in a bit :)

I had some similar issues after brining my MJ to a shop when I first bought it to have it checked out, they wanted todo $2000 worth of work on it and when I told them they where crazy they didn’t seem to happy About it....turns out accident or not when they where doing an inspection somehow 2 of my fuel injectors magicly disconnected themselves and created a massive issue, i noticed it was down a bit on power but anywhere past half throttle I had a massive backfire and 9 foot flames spitting out my tail pipe, took her home and noticed the injectors disconnected and a few other odd things fumbled with that I wasent happy with , not saying your shops are as crooked as the ones around here but it’s always worth a shot Incase the magical injector decided it wanted to pop off, it’s a long shot but worth a mention hopefully!

The first photo may have been slightly misaligned as I’m only using hex keys as rough placeholders for a better point of view, but the crankshaft bolts match up even when bolted up the the crank, it goes into the same spot the old one came out of and appears to have the windows in all the correct places when bolted to the crank, and the same manufacture as far as I can tell.... I will be installing this afternoon and I will try to keep everyone updated through the project

Sorry for the late reply all but I didn’t quite want to report back till I was 100% sure on my findings, so here they are I ordered the omix ADA flex plate for 87-90 Cherokee from jegs speed parts, P/N 440-16913.11 on jegs website here is the link to it: https://www.jegs.com/i/Omix-ADA/440/16913.11/10002/-1 Annnndd.... They are a match!! It’s seems that omix ADA still makes a flex plate for our Renix CPS!! I can’t tell y’all how relieved I am to be able to find a flex plate that match!! Now for the fun stuff.... to install and make sure everything works correctly, I used some hex wrench’s to hold the flex plate in place when taking pictures and all the cps marks line up, 20 squares in between the large rectangle for the cps on all 3 sides just like the stock one :) even after lightly bolting it up to check for clearance and positioning it fits right into the exact spot my old one came out of and all 6 bolt holes line up! Here are some more photos of the omix ADA flex plate next to my “stock” one Forgot to mention above when I called the dealership they told me that not only the flex plate but MOST dealer Renix parts have been discontinued...BUT there is a company out of Texas that buys all of Jeeps discontinued and overstock parts and resells them on there website here : https://www.vintagejeepparts.com After a bit of searching I found the flex plate: P/N 33002675 (note use that P/N with discretion as that part number on other sites will reference the wrong flex plate) Here’s the link: http:// https://www.vintagejeepparts.com/products/33002675_Flexplate%2C-87%252d90-Jeep-Cherokee-%28XJ%29.html I know i I kinda solved my own problem in a way but Hopefully this can help someone else who has the same problem as me and doesn’t have to go through the fiasco I did to get a new one, BTW thank all off your for the advice, I will say I was leaning toward having a matching shop weld it up If I couldn’t find a new one I’ve heard of it done before successfully in odd ball cases but I figured it was just best to hunt down a new in hopes of solving this issue for others aswell :)

Thank you! This will defiantly help solving the electrical gremlins in my 88 [emoji106]

Ok so after hours of frustrating phone calls to parts departments who wouldn’t help me I walked into my local dealership and turns out the flex plate for Renix era Jeeps is discontinued from the dealership, but they gave me this website to search on as they told me this website buys all of Chrysler’s old parts when they are discontinued so after alittle more searching I think I’ve found it https://www.vintagejeepparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=4176 After alittle more searching I also found what I believe to be the same part from JEGS for about $15 cheaper https://www.jegs.com/i/Omix-ADA/440/16913.11/10002/-1 Hopefully this can help other people who are having the same problem as me

Unfortunately you where right Eagle the timing slots where about 40 degrees off so left it with them, where should I end up sourcing one from? Jegs can overnight me one tomorrow by crown but I’m not sure the crown flex plate will work aswell

@gogmorgo you where right the cracks where hiding under the odd spacer plate, off to the parts store to get a new flex plate

They seem to be small radial cracks it’s honestly very hard to tell, I’m going to pull the flexplate right now and update you on how it looks once it’s out [emoji106] one odd question though, my buddy mentioned to me that the flexplate and torque converter only mount up one way is this true?!

I need to remove the spacer plate first but so far I don’t see any major cracking.... are those small crack lines normal for a old 4.0?