88mancheman

MJCARENA could you clarify that a little more? my shocks are currently mounted to the stock location on the frame under the bed and mounted to the top side of the axle mount on top of the leaf spring which I believe is the stock location right?

or is it irreverent what the angle is if it have a Slip yoke eliminator?

Dzimm I ordered the dial angle finder it seems a little more straight forward, does my pinion angle being too positive have an affect on the SYE?or is it unsafe?

Thank you all for the responses I've taken the "swap Dana 35" off my imminently fix list as y'all confirmed that this is a Chrysler 8 1/4 axle and hopefully better than a Dana 35, also eagle the pinion nut should be set to around 200 ft lbs but its only at about 100ish right now with some locktite, I'll try and take your advise and take the silverado to work tomorrow and rent a 250ft lbs torque wrench after work and re tighten the nut down to 200ft lbs, other than that does the rear axle look correct or does it look like I could have some other issues as well? also is their a difference in size between the Chrysler 8 1/4 suspension setup and a Dana 35? I believe the El cheapo shocks I have are for a Dana 35 setup as they are super long and only have about 1/4 of suspension before bottoming out....

1 25 Amp Rear washer / wiper - Located just right of top center in fuse bank. 2 15 Amp Radio, Cigarette lighter 3 25 Amp Heater blower motor - (* - if this keeps blowing or you only have heat on one speed check your blower motor resistor pack.) 4 20 Amp Turn signal, Back-up lights, Rear window defogger relay 5 10 Amp Dome light, Courtesy lights, Glove box light, Cargo light, Radio memory, Power mirrors, Teltak connector (For old analog "bag" cell phones, I think.) 6 15 Amp Hazard warning lights, Brake / Stop lights 7 10 Amp Parking lights, Headlight Warning Chime/Buzzer, Instrument panel light dimmer 8 7.5 Amp Gauges, Instrument cluster, Seat belt warning, Headlight delay, Chime module, Overhead console 9 5 Amp Instrument panel illumination 10 25 Amp Rear window defogger 11 30 AmpCircuit Breaker Power door locks, Power seats, Trailer towing wiring harness 12 10 Amp ETR (Delco OEM) radio, Power antenna 13(1984 - 1987) - - - Spare Fuse (GM automatics and manual transmissions.) 13(1988) 7.5 Amp Transmission control unit (For AW4 automatic transmissions) 14 25 Amp Headlight delay, Horns, Security alarm 15 5.5 AmpCircuit Breaker Front windshield wipers 16 30 AmpCircuit Breaker Power Windows 17 10 Amp Clock, Security alarm (Ignition)

I'm no expert if I where you I'd wait for Eagle or someone to chime in but in my experience there is a 20 amp fuse for the turn signal, backup lights, & rear window defogger it should be fuse #4 in the fuse box behind the break/clutch pedal, there is also a relay for the turn signals located to the lower left of the fuse panel its a large round looking thing check both of those just encase something shorted or is just going bad, also check the bulbs and make sure they are in good condition that's just my quick 2cents hopefully I helped a little

could the flasher relay stop the actual lights from coming on or is that a ground issue still? I will grab a relay this weekend after I get paid and report back again

I've been doing a a little bit of research and is it possible that this is a Chrysler 8.25 rear end!? if so is this a decent axle for this truck or is an axle swap still in my future?

hopefully these can help

eagle thank you for the Info I got the new u joint and nut yesterday I've just been waiting for the weekend to swap it all around but I'm afraid with my slip yoke eliminator that the u joint may be quite a project to get removed and new one crushed in, ill make sure to double check the specs on those bolts tomorrow night before I start the project again though, would a new crush sleeve be 100% necessary? or could I get away with roughly 250ft lbs on the old crush sleeve till I swap this axle out? also ill run out to my truck and post pictures in about 5 min of he axle so you can better see whats going on P.S eagle I have since removed the hackery as jeep driver said, that was only a temporary fix to make it back over the hill with the truck and start working on it ive since then put a new nut from Ace on but I don't believe its at 250ft lbs, maybe 100ft lbs...... and yes dasbulliwagen and eagle I have a slip yoke eliminator on my 32rh trans

Thank you everyone for your fast responses I saw your posts Saturday morning and immediately ran out and ripped my duct tape off and slid the driveshaft off the diff and I was reassured that I didn't have to buy a new axle right away as the nut that holds the back half of the yoke onto the pinion spline shaft seemed to have backed out when I was on that steep hill and was no longer holding the yoke onto the back of the pinion gear, it would stay in place when the driveshaft was under load and extended but during breaking and deceleration the driveshaft would shorten I guess and allow the yoke to slide off the spindle on the pinion gear, I ended up taking the U joint apart and heading down to auto zone and ordered a new nut and U joint but they won't be here till tomorrow(Wednesday) so I just got a 7/8-14 fine thread nut and a washer and some red locktite at Ace down the street and buttoned up the yoke back to the pinion gear spine shaft, since I didn't have a new U joint nor will I have one till tomorrow I just got new clamps for the U joint and used the old one for now since this is my DD and I needed it ASAP, should a normal locking nut with locktite be OK or should I change it ASAP? Eagle this is the original Dana 35 as far as I can tell its a bit dark out now but I can send pictures tomorrow on lunch break to confirm, also I'm sorry my wording didn't make sense I guess after a few beers some words start to make a little more sense than others I'm sorry I don't have more pictures as soon as I found out it was fairly simple I fixed it as best I could and got back on the road but hopefully y'all can somewhat see whats going on their

Hey everyone! Today I had quite the extravaganza! on my way to work today I had to stop at a stoplight on a very steep hill, when I went to take off I heard a loud pop in the rear end but didn't think much of it as I thought it was something shifting around in the bed, then I noticed that every time I let off the gas I heard and odd whine in the rear end, once I got to the job site I notice that their was some fluid on the front of the Dif where the driveshaft goes into it, again didn't think too much of it as I'm at work and have other things todo, on my way to the audio shop after work I grabbed some gear fluid and filled up the quite empty Dif, then proceeded to head over the hill to get my radio installed, the whole time over the hill every time I let off the gas and tried to decelerate or coast I heard this god awful whine grind sound from the rear end and it kinda vibrated, since I was on a small 2 lane road I had no decision but to drive on and just keep going faster and hope for hills to slow down, we got into San Jose and stopped at McDonalds to grab a quick burger, and as soon as I pulled out of the parking lot their was this loud clank and I had no power and could hear the driveshaft whipping around so I threw it in nuetral at a green light hopped out and tried to push but it seemed like the front axle was still in park so I hopped under to take a look and I saw that the driveshaft had slipped out of the diff with a spindle on it...... not sure if thats normal in any situation..... so I put it back in the diff and threw the truck in 4L and crawled it to the closest street where I found out my whole diff would rotate about 7 inches up and down past center when in gear and reverse so limped it to an auto zone 2 miles away and tightened the 8 19mm bolts on the U clamps holding the axle to the frame, it helped a lot with the rotation but maybe I needed to torque them more as I'm still hearing the awful sound from my rear end when I let off the gas and try to coast, does a driveshaft come off past the last U joint and with a spindle in any situation!? I think I'm screwed and need todo an axle swap this weekend ill update with pictures in the morning when I take a better look at everything but could anyone have an idea of WTH is going on here other than a blown diff....................

H0rdbrod I tried swapping the relays on my lunch break today and got no emergency flashers or turn signals, this kinda confused me so I swapped them back and by emergency lights wouldn't flash for about 5 seconds and then began to act as normal again, I pulled them again and sanded the contacts with some 220 sand paper and reinstalled them but still no blinkers, could this mean the relay is faulty? gogmorgo thank you for sticking with me on this Ill take a better look at how the HID's where installed tomorrow when I get a chance, as far as I know they are only wired on the headlight brights but I'll double check that, and yeah I'm pretty sure they are dual filament bulbs I had them lookup the make and model and I checked them today they look like they have 2 filament heads, I'll grab another set of some manufacture ones specific for the MJ this week and try those maybe that will help or at least be OEM so I can eliminate the bulbs all together.

Saturday morning I took on the task of disconnecting every connector I could find in the engine bay, the one 2 I didn't touch where for the HID Amps I discovered hiding in the fender area which still had dielectric grease on them but where disconnected at the back side so I reconnected that and now I have sweet blue HID brights, I left the connectors all unplugged for about 8 hours to dry while I worked on cleaning my C101 connector and an oil leek at my distributor, plugged everything back in fired it up and checked my blinkers still nothing my emergency lights work fine if that matters at all, and if I turn on my parking lights my left indicator still lights up solid and the right doesn't show anything and my wipers still don't work gogmorgo I had the parts guy look up what kind it was but I'm not 100% sure if its single or dual filament I'm gonna take a look in a bit when I get back from washing the ole girl

Sorry all for the late response again my job has me working unusually long hours lately gomorgo I changed the bulbs with the auto lite? brand from O'Reilly's It was all they carried for our era of jeeps around here I guess, they appeared to be almost exactly the same as the ones I pulled out, just different branding cruiser54 I will certainly go grab a bottle of CRC electronic cleaner tomorrow and attempt to spray every connector I see I'll report back tomorrow night with my results Eagle I will check the grounds when I am cleaning all the connections as suggested by cruiser54, any particular place I should look to find the turn signals grounding points? I will also check all my sockets and bulbs again tomorrow after work when I spray all the connectors down ParadiseMJ Thank you for the heads up! When time and funds permits I will definitely hunt down a fuse box and replace mine, I guess for now I'm just going to have to deal with it , you also said your wiper fuse falls out occasionally, which fuse would that be? my wipers currently don't work at all and winter is coming fast, so I think that is next on my list after the turn signal problem Thank you all for the responses it gives me a sense of hope that I will eventually work out the kinks in this truck

Thank you guys so much for the quick replies!! jdog I replaced the turn signal bulbs about 3 weeks ago hoping the cheap fix would solve my problem since the left turn indicator on the dash is lit up constantly whenever the parking or headlights are on, but it didn't do anything but give me new bulbs I've also began to believe my problem is in the column as well, are there any connectors on the column or such that I can check before replacing the turn signal switch itself? jdog & Eagle, I noticed today that the grounds on the block looked pretty dirty so I do believe a good Ground cleaning is due ASAP. I guess I know what I'm doing on my lunch break tomorrow gogmorgo, I replaced both the Parking lights/ turn signals? (if I'm wrong please correct me) about 3 weeks ago hoping to fix my problem also sorry for the late reply guys I'm new to this forum and I guess my notifications are not showing up

Hello Everyone, To start off I'm sorry if this a repeat post, I couldn't find anything similar using the search function and this is my first post so thank you in advance for your time! I've recently purchased a 1988 Jeep Comanche with around 210k on the original AMC motor and around 60k on a new automatic transmission (not sure what kind) after some work to get her running right and pass CA emissions shes back on the road as a daily driver and runs great but I've ran into one problem, my turn signals don't work I don't believe that they have ever worked since I've bought the truck either but I never paid much attention to it before I started daily driving it, when ever I turn the running lights or headlights on the left turn signal imminently illuminates on the dash and stays lit till you turn the left blinker on, and does not blink when on, it just stays off and the turn signal below the headlights will stay illuminated dimly, when you turn the right turn signal on nothing shows on the dash and it dimly illuminates the right blinker as well as slightly lighting up the left one? they do not blink which lead me to believe the relay was bad so i followed Cruiser54's advise from another forum and swapped my hazard relay and blinker relay and nothing....not even hazards... so I swapped them back and the hazards work again but no blinkers.... so messed with the fuse I believe its #4 or #5 I can't remember off the top of my head but it says turn/B on it trying to see if the fuse was loose and bent the tab in the fuse block and broke it off so there is nothing to hold the fuse, for a temp fix I bent the remaining tab over to touch the fuse and bent the fuse to touch the end of the broken brass(if that makes sense) but still no blinkers and now I have a broken tab in my fuse box..... is their any way I can pull out the tabs from one of the unused fuse tabs and install it back into the turn signal fuse? I'm sorry for the long post I'm just at a loss and wiring is the bane of my existence...... P.S my wipers and horn don't work either possibly another symptom of bad fuse or connection?