KANTANKRUS

Me too, plus it is an Eliminator!

I can get these for $100 plus S&H. I am buying them. Pace Setter set up for side pipes.

I just refreshed the images.

Nice!

Which one would you buy? Original paint, on both.

Good info!

Long tub or short tube? What is the difference? Which brand? Where dija get em? Coated? Ease of install? Rated from 1 to 10, with 10 being most difficult. Please advise.

Thanks. Not sure what color I going with, so for now it will remain looking like this.

I am known to not pus the limits on my vehicles, yes I use them for what they are intended for, but never push the envelope.

Pete and Rylee, at some point I will pull that knee panel off again and I will snap a few cell phone pictures, then share them with you here. I unfortunately do not remember seeing anything that even resembles either of the two items that you mentioned above. I do however have a flat rectangular yellow plastic box under there. I was told by our late and dearly missed, departed HOrnbrod that this box was related to the cruise control, of which does not work either. But until I revisit this area, I can not truly remember.

I am NOT a fan. I won't ever advocate China made crap to install on anything that I drive. Just last night, I was a Jeep - Meet_n_Greet, held at Hundred Acres Manor (Haunted House). I had a guy come up to me and ask if I would like buy his NIB RC Long Arm kit. At that time, I said, maybe. But once I got home, I bounced the idea off of a far more experienced, 4x4 guru. His reply was, no way... forget that. His explanation is as follows: New they are around $700 and they are radius arms, not a true long arm. They cause mad antidive and other problems! In a radius arm you have one point on the drivers side and one on the passenger side, where each link arm ties the axle into the frame (er... Unibody  ) and the link arm travels in a fixed radius (hence the name) in relation to the body. It's basically zero resistance and no binding (within the limits of the coil spring travel). Which can be both a good and a bad thing. When your tire is spinning and trying to grab traction it is trying to rotate the axle housing in the opposite direction. (Every action has an equal and opposite reaction, physics). Your radius arm does its job at keeping the housing from rotating and power is applied in a forward motion. However not all the power goes towards rotating the tires, because of the zero resistance and binding of travel in a radius arm, some of the power easily transfers as lifting the front of the jeeps body. (Think when you are at a red light and gun it, the weight transfers towards the back, and the rear sags and the front lifts). In a radius arm, this is extremely noticeable because the geometry does not apply any anti-squat, or "the good part or link binding) With a proper 4 link or the like, (with vertical separation, proper instant-centers and link lengths and all that jazz) you create some "good binding" as your axle housing tries to rotate again it is pushing on your upper link and actually pulling a bit on your lower link. With the right geometry this makes it so no power is applied in lifting your jeeps body. It all makes sense to me I hope it may to you. Same principles (but reversed) apply to anti-dive or the anti-squat of braking. Like when you see a newer ford (with a factory radius arm front suspension) slam on the brakes his front end dives down. This can be avoided with a multi-link setup. Also applies to roll-axis when you bring in link triangulation. You can fight body roll and unloading with proper geometry. With all of that said, ironically I see this little puddle jumper with a Rough Country decal on the back of it... I was like, oh boy how PERFECT is that... lol!

840 pounds of wood pellets. Sure not near the 1,400 pound payload max, but still a healthy load. My Comanche just laughed at it... lol!

Tony, told me on FB that he would make more of these corner climbers in our Comanches a few days ago and he would then tag me, to notify me, that he was good on his promise. I saw these on Etsy originally, but it was only what I call a 'feeler' to see if anyone would want them for their trucks.

As far as I discovered [when I had that knee panel removed, months ago] I did not see that so called 'little black box'

Yes, the ground has been done and it did nothing. I replaced to motor, it did nothing. I did not replace the arm bushings yet. And yes, I have intermittent speeds on my stalk lever.

Since replacing my windshield, the one and only speed of my wipers NOW Seem to function properly! I wonder if this new windshield is slightly flatter than the previous one? Also, likely slicker!

That's pretty cool and useful!

Once again, Rusty's sells them, but they are pricey. If I fail at fabbing my own, I will pay to get some from them. But not until I try this on my own.

Here you go... https://www.etsy.com/listing/743638779/jeep-comanche-84-96-97-01-mj-windsheild

Tony Reiss, owner of Skull Daddy Graphics, just created these Corner Climbers, especially for me, because of my requests. I ordered a pair of them at 5:45am... yes!

There are many choices out there for additional side lighting, I have thought about this too. Maybe a strip of red LED's will suffice. We shall see!

No body work needed, the enclosure will match to body lines (that is what fabrication is). No paint, as this truck will be getting a Monstaliner coating. If I get creative, this truck will NOT be a simple monotone coated scheme. You wait and see, how it turns out like. This truck will be done like no other! No I will not share, my vision until it is well on it's way of completion. Pete M. has so far agreed , to my modification and I for one, have a lot of respect for this man!

I really don't care about resale. I am 59.5 years of age. When I sell it, it will likely be sold to a Gen Z and most youngins love modified vehicles. Plus, like before I am not a purist. I like modifying my vehicles. Some folks say, your ruining it and still others say, I am upgrading it. All I say is, I am updating/upgrading it. Not one of my 30+ vehicles, in my 43.5 years of driving, remained stock for very long.

I am very much thinking about building my own tail light enclosures, similar to what Rusty's sells for IMHO, astronomical pricing and then inserting these into it. I have access to a metal shop, at my workplace, so why not try?!? Side note: Stock tail lights keep getting harder to find, are very hazed over and are usually very pricey. Additionally, if you wheel your Comanche, there is always a chance of damaging your prized tails. By using something like this, the availability of replacement is only a click away.

Good golly, fugly!