eaglescout526

But were pretty damn close. I'm idle by watching the results Comanche Math kids!

Now solve for (X). Lol.

Sounds like what you needed to get away from this mess. If the block is still disconnected, I would try to find the orange wire and probe it for voltage just to see if the drop is between there and the relay. You do the same!

When I got a leaf spring from generalspring, the alignment pin was way too thick to fit in the hole, so I had to use the old pin to get it to line up correctly. That was the problem I had.

Well vinyl can chip like paint too, just gotta give it 30+ years and more than eight hours in the sun. I know my original Pioneer decals were chipped in spots. But hey it looks good so I can't wait to see the final product!

Looks really good. I am willing to bet that was more of a two tone option than a vinyl kit.

You could have wired the brighter filament to the wire that is for the marker lights. Have you turned on your turn signal to see if the blinking filament is dim?

No worries. No time rush here.

Its held on by a small bolt probably around 1/4" or so. It is not an easy one to separate, but supposedly it is full of tar like the C101

Yes that should be it. Close to the infamous C101(which 86 never got) but this is where most if not all the wiring for the front end comes to meet for fuses and such. A pink W/tracer wire comes out of that block on the interior side and follows the inside rocker panel to the floor plug that pops out of the bottom of the floor pan to the fuel tank.

Well the wiring for the fuel pump from the relay goes right through the bulk head under the booster and clutch master. So unless the tar in there is creating resistance, then the FP or splice "N" is also causing an issue.

Makes me wonder if we wiggled something. But yes the voltage at the FP is still odd. Thankfully you don't have to adjust the pressure regulator. Not fun nor easy to remove the throttle body. I mean bad things can still show good resistance, my guess is resistance was the common sign of a bad injector. Well we can keep trying to see if we can get better voltage to the FP and then go from there. But I am happy to see the engine wants to fire without fuel down the TB.

Unless the injector is dirty. Not sure how much of a difference but the more grounds the better.

Question is. Do we suspect the fuel pump at fault? Or the injector?

I will say this. We are hell of a lot farther than what we were. Almost seems like the injector is trying to spray.

Timing test should help with that too, if the injector is spraying at all. I have a spare injector but am unsure if it works or not. I think Ωhm might know more about the injector timing light test than I would.

Not looking for anything specifically, just parts or pieces to assemble some kits for those who want to add cruise control to their trucks.

Ok so I went a did a little test of my own with the injector harness. I used a test light and tried a couple things. I attached the clip to power of the battery and found one is ground and remains lit until the engine cranks. I tried the other prong of the injector harness and got nothing, not even a dim light. Switched the clip to ground post and got nothing on the prong that lit up and nothing during crank. Moved to the next one and got nothing during crank, course its so bright outside that even if the test lamp did dimly light, I didn't see it. But if I recall, your test noid remained lit constantly, I'm still waiting on my noid light to test it better than using a test light.

I missed that. Brain is kinda burned from the ECU thread.

Usually that is a culprit for a no start condition. The aftermarket CPS's are a hit or miss and can fail right out of the box.

Alright once you get a reading, lets get back at it tomorrow. Also ive been studying the 86, 87 and 88 electrical schematics. Everything connected to the ECU connector is the same for all years, so I would imagine the 87-90 years could be an upgrade over the 86 ECU.

Yeah but with key on we won't see any voltage run down the line for start up phase. Power will be present for one second and them gone. It won't be until the engine is running(or relay jumped) when we will see constant power at the splice and else where in that line.

But weren't we seeing 10V earlier today at those splices? Wait did you get the 10V with the relay or the jumper?

We could test for resistance and voltage, Supposedly the wiring shows it is apart of that FP relay splice "K" so it should have either the 10V(from earlier) or battery voltage and I would guess that the ECU controls the ground for the pulse. I can try to do a test light tomorrow and see if I can get that dim pulse and rewatch your video to see.

Correct, we have ruled out just about every damn thing except two things. Is the ECU switching the injector? Or is the injector faulty and not pulsing fuel like it should? We have kinda ruled out the fuel pump but not exactly.