coolwind57

Apparently, the F-350 sway bar end link upgrade that guys are doing for our MJs may start to become harder and harder to accomplish. No local parts store can seem to get their hands on them as I called around yesterday. Found out that Bumper to Bumper here in New Albany, Indiana is directly associated with Moog as an official direct distributer, as I understand it. Anyhow, I called Bumper to Bumper and the dude was completely shocked that he could not get me part Moog K80035. Said he couldn't understand that there is actually a Moog part here on planet Earth that he could not get. The Moog warehouse is just 10-minutes across the Ohio river in Louisville, Kentucky. So, I found that Rock Auto has them. But check this out: They're on "wholeseller closeout" for $6.42 each. I'm thinking that that means that they may be a limited-quantity and/or soon to be discontinued item. Amazon doesn't seem to have them but a few E bay Sellers have them at about $20 each. I placed my first order from Rock Auto yesterday and expect shipment to arrive on Friday. I also found a bunch of other "closeout' deals too that I just couldn't pass up. Nailed a set of Belden Lifetime Pro 700404 spark plug wires for $5.96 (they run $26.99 at Napa). I've got several items coming and paid 10-bucks for shipping. I still came out well ahead despite the shipping charge. Set up a "Wholesale Closeout Feed" on their website based upon your year and model. You'll be surprised at the hundreds of closeout items that pop up for your MJ. Anxious to see how Rock Auto does for me on this first shopping experience, as I've heard mixed reviews here.

I'll go ahead and throw my two cents in, FWIW. My 89 had the sheet metal-mounted "flag" mirrors on it when I bought this truck last Month. I did not like them. Maybe someone else really likes them so they're available if anyone wants them. Just send me a message. They're in great condition. One of my first mods last Month was the mirror upgrade that I did from a 98 model XJ. I think the 1998 XJ (as well as other 97+ models) looked fine with its mirrors and don't believe that the overall cab design is much different from my 89 MJ cab design. I therefore, think that my 98XJ mirrors look normal on my MJ and are not atrocious as others have expressed. To each his own but I ain't seeing it as looking terrible, man. I'm happy with the looks. But I am even more happy with the performance. I now have usable mirrors that greatly enhance my overall driving experience. I once saw here where a guy promptly removed his 97+ upgraded mirrors because of the window channel of the older style windows blocked a bit of his view. He claimed that he just couldn't get over the partial blockage of this window channel. Again, I didn't have this experience and quickly got used to it within minutes behind the wheel. I can understand some people not being able to deal with this, but in my experience it was easily overcome and overshadowed by my new ability to see around me better. I didn't wire my 98 mirrors either. This is my truck and I drive it 98% of the time and I've made only one initial adjustment simply by using my booger jabber.

Thanks for the diagnosis and confirming my addiction. Here in Southern Indiana, we got jipped on snow last year so I'm hoping for at least a moderate Winter this year. Wife is new to the country so she's seen only a cold days when she arrived late last season. There is a wonderful feeling of satisfaction in plowing through weather that strands others along side the road. Even better if you go out rescuing and pulling people out. Last night, I ordered a new pair of LCAs from a WJ for $45 bucks. I think I'll start there and then next will be an adjustable track bar and sway bar end links. Then I'll have an alignment shop look her over if I am still not happy. I sure appreciate the help, fellas.

How do you suppose the PO lifted that front end? There are no coil spacers. Coil spring swap from a different vehicle? What is a common coil spring swap that gives 2-1/2"? What kinda gets me is that the coils are painted the same silver color as the original body. Maybe its a just a coincidence.

My axle measurements earlier were made exactly as I had described in an earlier measurement: Yes appears to be factory wheels and flares. So here's what I got with your method: I got: Front --20" Rear -- 21" My tires are 31 X10.5 R15 Well now. I'm confused at this point.

Should this be concerning?

Yep, got me thinking, indeed. Still trying to wrap my head around what exactly happens to the springs once the truck is taken down off jacks and under the weight of the vehicle after this incomplete lift is performed. Agreed. Makes sense that dialing in with an adjustable track bar would likely fix it regardless of the dynamics going on there. I'm with you.

Ok, I've got pics, and I've performed the lift measurements and here's what I came up with: Front measurement, from top of axle tube to underside of frame rail (inboard of LCA Mount) = 9" Rear measurement, from top of axle tube to tuen underside of frame rail (inboard of bump stop) = 10-1/4" So it appears that my lift is very minimal. This would make it 1-1/4" lift for front and 1" lift for rear. I am really a bit surprised, as the height appears much higher than most standard mid-sized trucks. Must be the tires throwing me off. Pics are of the truck and her stance, my rear spring setup, the front coils showing contact with track bar bracket, and my sway bar link rubbing coils (driver's side only with the coil rubbing, by the way) What do you guys think: The slight front lift come from junkyard-swapped front coil springs, maybe? Did they just add a leaf or two to bring the rear up an inch (Its a D35 rear diff....I think this is suppose to have only 3 or 4 leafs, right?). How ever the means of lift, it appears to be enough to cause the track bar to pull my axle over to passenger side too much. Unless any of you stop me, I think I'll get: 1. taller sway bar links to get the driver's side out of the coil springs 2. an adjustable track bar to correct alignment of the front axle...and thus get that track bar bracket out of my coil springs 3. I may go ahead with some LCA from a WJ. My wife hates the steering. Turns way easy with that 80s overkill power steering compared to modern cars, no doubt. I live with it just fine but I do notice that it does take a little more effort to keep her doing straight down the road. Perhaps WJ LCAs with new bushing may help for a less intense feel. I dig the 3/8" washer trick steering stop technique, but I may try this after the upgraded LCAs, if needed. 4. Perhaps I'll have an alignment shop look things over after all of the above is done. As always, I appreciate your input, fellas. Ticked to death to be here!

1. Just as soon as it stops raining. I'll hit it tomorrow at work and let you guys know. Rain is suppose to stop overnight. All I know at the moment is that the bottom of the door is level with my knees. I'm 5'11". 2. Rear is still SUA, yes. There are 5 leafs total, with one at the bottom I think arching up (helper I assume). As for track bar, well it seems to be pulling the axle to the passenger side because driver's spring is rubbing track bar upper end housing bracket. I suppose the track bar is now a bit too short and does not allow for true centering of the axle. The passenger side spring has more open space around it, so no contact there. 3. Certainly the sway bar bushings aren't new looking. I recall no terrible damage or disintegration, but they are aged for sure. I'll get a set of new ones when I figure out and do all of this work ahead of me. 4. Wow. Seems pretty dang simple. This sounds like a good plan! My first thought is that this may really effect turn radius. If correct, will this be pretty significant? I've been reading more about WJ lower control arms (providing I'm 3" or under--by the way, thanks Pete M. I'll try 3/8 washer technique first. 5. Roger that. And I'm off the bed and will have to search to find out how to post pics later. I'm too dang tired tonight. Thank you, DesertRat1991. I appreciate all of the help I'm getting from you fellas.

I'll tell you what I did about 3-weeks ago, fellas: Home Depot flat weatherstripping. I'll see if I can get a pic or something as soon as I have time to figure out how to post pics here. This stuff worked WONDERFULLY for me. The size I bought fit perfectly inside the three walls of the channel and made a huge difference in wind noise. I replace only the channel above the window line....that going inside the door cavity was not brittle and held up well. I did this after also pulling the outside glass "sweeps" and replacing from the updated ones of a 98 XJ. That too was a great upgrade from the brittle, crumbling ones put originally on our MJs. The Home Depot stripping was self adhesive and flat with ribbing on the contacting surfaces. I bought the brown because I couldn't find black, but I'm happy because it does kinda go with my camo painted truck. Totally sealed up my window glass and does not restrict. That little line of adhesive has held up well too.

The thought of stripping out (or breaking) that worm gear of the window crank makes me cringe. I replaced both crank assemblies on my truck two weeks ago and it was not a very fun project. Hope you find a solution, bro. I don't wish a window crank replacement on anybody.

Thanks Pete and 87Warrior. Hey 87Warrior, on #3: Hey wait a second...Why would I need a sway bar disconnect for my type of use? I thought this was for rock climbing-type guys so that they could get max flex when they face a challenge on the trail. They hop out and temporarily disconnect the end links. Is there another reason that this will be my best bet? I'm anxious to get out and measure my lift but its raining all day today...I am now reading that a drop pitman arm may also be in store for me. Another dang expense it seems. I'll check brake lines. Man, I wish the PO would had at least done the lift correctly instead of just buying those awesome tires and doing minimal infrastructure to support the lifted look.

Ok fellas, learning as I new owner so bear with me. My new 89 lwb 4x4/4.0 has obviously been lifted by the first owner. Second owner just basically bought and rarely drove it for about a year and I'm the third owner, 97K original miles. This is not a Metric ton, as I have a D35 in rear with four regular springs and what appears to be a curved-up helper spring back there. Rear spring brackets appear stock, only because they're rusty as hell. Anyhow, I have no idea how much of a lift this thing has, but I'd guess maybe 3", but that's just a guess. How the heck do I tell for sure? Truck is sporting 31s, but the front tires do make contact on tight turns. Looks like they're hitting lower control arms (LCAs) because of paint-worn shiny steel. Based upon searching and reading prior posts, these are likely stock LCAs--they are not tubular and appear to be stamped-like, Jeep factory manufactured steel. Another issue is that the thing is noisy as the front end dips and moves around. Upon inspection, the front swaybar end link on the driver's side is making contact with the coil spring...and so is the big mounting bracket of the track bar. There is very slight contact on both, but it is making quite the racket regardless. Entire sway bar appears to be stock as does the non-adjustable track bar I'm looking at. Passenger side sway bar end link clears the coil just fine, as does the wheel well frame. Steering wheel orientation slightly off center. Ok, based upon this newby's research on this helpful site, I'm going to take a gander at a hypothesis: After adding a rear spring lift, Some dude bought new front coils to lift her up. Looks like he slapped them in there, lowered the truck off his lift and then just started driving. So I guess I'm asking you guys to correct my hypothesis as needed and perhaps add anything that I might be missing, please: 1. With no manufacturer markings on front or rear springs that I can see and with 31 tires (and with no other stock Comanche in my area for height comparisons), how can I determine the amount of lift? I'm thinking I'm really really going to need to know this. 2. Do I for sure need to upgrade to an adjustable track bar to accommodate this lift? How about Rough Country - 7572 - Front Adjustable Track Bar from Amazon for $129.95? I'm poor, so maybe an appropriate junkyard re-purpose from a different model will work? JKS Manufacturing OGS128 Front HD Adjustable Trackbar seems cool but one will need to double the price of the Rough Country to snag it. Kinda hurts a guy on a tight budget. 3. Are lengthened sway bar end links in order (assuming #2 above doesn't solve all of my problems)? 4. Wheel spacers or aftermarket LCAs to address tire rubbing (I am assuming that an adjustible track bar isn't going to do anything for the LCA rubbing)? 5. What am I missing as far as what I would need to buy or do? Look fellas, I'll be honest with you. I wasn't necessarily looking for a lifted Comanche. I'm not into rock crawling and mudding on weekends. I occasionally go out into the woods to collect firewood and I live on a big ol hill that gets snow and ice in the Winters. My 4x4 time is rare and it is for work, not play. I'm a big, burly 48-year-old country boy that loved the idea of a great, durable Jeep workhorse multipurpose truck (driving to work & occasional weekend hauling). I'd really be fine with a non-lift Comanche. But it does look pretty dang sweet sitting up on these nearly brand new 31s. But, if cost to complete this lift properly is going to kill me, then I need to know if dropping her back down to stock height will be SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper. Would love your input and advice.

Don't know if this is the right place to second this request, but I'm looking for one too, but I'm in Southern Indiana. Mine is a long wheel base.

Nope. Found out this doesn't work on my 1989 MJ. Instead, on these old-style caps one should consider just running to Napa for the $3.29 replacement = BK 7031366.

I"m on it!

FIXED! Thank you friends for your help. It came down to a bad temperature sending unit. I popped a new one in and we're doing great now.

Same issue here. Tried prying up on my old cap's seal and it snapped. Swinging by Autozone to try the 4310 cap. Thank you, Sir.

Will do.

Quick update: Burping the closed system (decline front end, unscrewing Temperature sending unit) didn't work. An air pocket did escape, but it didn't fix my idiot light issue. I noticed that what this thing does is glow brightest upon initially reaching temperature. Then it tapers off a bit to a medium, then very light glow. So light that it is hardly visible when the sun is out brightly. I'll unplug the sending unit for the ride home today, as cruiser54 advised. I have to swing by O'Reilly's later this morning anyhow, and I'm going to go ahead and pick up a new temperature sending unit. Not typically a "throw-money-at-it kind of guy", but hey they're only 11-bucks. I just need some more piece of mind that I'm not melting my engine. Thanks fellas. I'll update.

Sounds good. Dang 97+ XJ heater hoses cost more than the radiator and recovery bottle! I may consider finding the newest heater hoses from pull-a-part.

Yep, blessed with dashing good looks, but cursed with meager endowment of funds. Initially I thought that Macs was the cheaper route, but as I just checked pull-a-part pricing & eBay, I've found that you're correct. Check this out: **$139 for the Mac's bottle, $23.92 shipping (Yikes!) and a junkyard recovery bottle for $13.95.** TOTAL=$176.87 **$78 new eBay radiator and eBay $17.20 recovery bottle, both free shipping** TOTAL-$95.20 **$39.95 junkyard radiator and a junkyard recovery bottle, $13.95** TOTAL=$53.90 I'll put this on the back burner for now unless the current closed system gives me fits--and then its on like Donkey Kong.

Well, I hadn't tried that. I'll give her a shot and unplug at the sending unit today on my way home from work. What are you thinking here: if its unplugged and still glows that I may have some electrical circuit issues going on? BTW, It doesn't start off glowing. I watched it intently on the drive in this morning. Began glowing as temperature climbed, about 3-4 minutes upon starting and driving down the road. It glowed brightest around 5-6 minutes (driving at 50mph for the next 10 minutes and decreased to a very light glow, pretty-much the remaining 30 minutes of my commute. This "brightest" still looked as if it wasn't a full-on illumination in my opinion. I'm poor, so I'd like to try to figure this out before dropping $15-20 bucks on a new temp sending unit. And of course I want to ensure that nothing damaging is going on too. I am about 25% finished with your connections/grounding-refresh advise. You're a good man, cruiser54. This morning, the interior heat seemed improved after my heater core back flush last night. I'll do the "burp" procedure on my lunch hour. I am beginning to dig the idea of the open-system via Mac's aluminum pressure bottle (with added overflow bottle) upgrade. This current closed system is aggravating to a guy who's not used to seeing this. Seems illogical and over-complicated to me.

Ok, I haven't figured this out yet. I've driven my new Comanche for 4-days now since I bought it. Been doing lots of upgrades and I've been having a blast. Here's an issue that I haven't yet figured out and I'd like to run this past you guys. 97K original miles, pretty much all stock engine compartment. Base model, I have idiot lights--no gauges. My water temperature idiot light has been slowly coming on....and I mean a light glow at first then gradually coming on moderately but seemingly not full on. Doesn't look like a full glow to me. The first time, I pulled over worried that I was in trouble. But the engine did not appear to be overheating. No spillage from pressure bottle (I have that nutty closed system that I am trying to better understand), no smells, etc. All appears to be in order with no apparent over heating. Last night I removed the HCV and back flushed the heater core. Cabin heat didn't seem up to par. In doing the flush, I had pinched off the heater hoses going back to engine as to minimizing air pockets throughout the rest of the system. I ran out of light in "burping" the system by raising rear end and loosening that temp sensor, but otherwise refill went ok. I'll burb at work today. What's up with that idiot light? I am only guessing, but did she need a "burping" all along (even before my HCV delete) or did maybe a previous owner install the wrong temperature sending unit (one made for gauges instead of idiot light)? This is all I can come up with in my limited knowledge of this strange closed system. Any ideas, fellas?

oooh, good point. Perhaps he "limped it" back home or something. If I got the story correct, then I suppose he lucked out getting that thing home safely.