M1A1TankerTom

So I drove my truck yesterday and it ran fine. Went out this morning to start it and it wouldnt start. Just turned over and over and over but would not fire up. Checked and I was getting spark, checked and sounded like the fuel pump was coming on, but it just wouldnt fire up. So I poured a little bit of gas down the intake and I expected it to fire up and then die but instead it fired up and just kept running. I let it run for about 10 minutes and then took it for a drive around the block....ran fine. So I got home and turned the truck off and re-started it about 5 times and it started fine every time. Then I waited about 4 hourse went back outside and it fired up just fine three more time. What the hell do you guys think was up? Why wouldnt this thing start the first time and why the hell would it keep starting and acting fine once I poured some gas down the intake? The only thing I can think is maybe the fuel pump is on its way out?

so all my buddies are telling me that I should not worry about upgrading the axle shafts in the D44 because my truck on 32's will not break them. Is this true? What do you guys think about this? If its truely not needed I'm all about saving the money...but if I'm gonna do something I'm all about doing it right the first time as well.

well I know its gonna be more money than I originally planned but I have decided to go with OX lockers in both front and rear. So OX lockers, 4.56 gears...now I just have to decide on axle shafts, U Joints and all the other little things.

any other suggestions?

the truck is used as a daily driver and a weekend warrior for off-roading

alright guys so I got my axles dropped off at my buddies shop and now I just got to let him know what I want him to do to them. Thats where you guys come in, I need some help pointing me in the right direction of a good set up. So I got a dana 44 rear out of a comanche that currently has 3.07 gears and a dana 30 front out of a 93 cherokee with 3.55's. I know that I want to run 4.56 gears and some kind of locker in both front and rear but I don't know what kind of locker exactly. I was thinking about running an Aussie locker in both front and rear but then I'm gonna have to change carriers because of the 4.56's. The other option is to run detroits in both front and rear which then I won't have to find new carriers but the price is a bit more. Selectable lockers a more than I want to spend. also is there anything else that I should look into? I don't think that I really need to upgrade the axles...the truck is only running 32's and will only see mild to medium wheeling conditions, nothing super crazy (mostly hillsides, steep inclines, creek beds....no rocks climbing). Also I am planning to have a rebuild kit installed in both front and rear so they should be fresh axles. So feel free to throw out your suggestions. What locker would you run? Am I missing anything? Would you add something else? I'm a newbie so any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I got ahold of TmanHollister last night via email (i bought the truck from him) and he told me that he did it, which makes me not worry. If he would have told me that he did not do it then I would have definatley torn that thing open and checked out what was going on.

hey guys I was working on the manche today and while crawling around under her I noticed that the vacume line to the CAD was cut short and not hooked up. It is a clean cut and looks as though it was done on purpose. So I started wondering if the previouse owner locked the CAD engaged. I tried turning the front driveshaft and it would not move and seemed engaged. What exactly is the benefits of this?

went to my local junkyard today and they just got an 88 MJ in. One thing that caught my eye is it has bucket seats (as where my truck has a bench). Was thinking about grabbing them but the seats themselves are crap (ripped to hell, headrest bent, drivers side won't fold down forward, etc). So I am wondering is it worth it to grab the brackets off the bottom of the seats? Guy said he would sell me the lower bracket assemblies for 20 bucks. I am kinda thinking if I grab the brackets I could mount them to some cheap racing style seats or maybe some seats from an XJ. What you guys think?

i contacted jeepsticker.com about making a header sticker over a month ago. He said he would put them on his web page soon....but like I said that was over a month ago.

sorry to bring this back from the dead but I need to tag this...planning on a major interior over haul as my next job and these are on the list of things to do.

sorry to bring this back from the dead but I need to tag this...planning on a major interior over haul as my next job and these are on the list of things to do.

no I never did the HO header, I ended up just throwing a new stock replacement manifold on. I found a new stocker on ebay for only 70 bucks or so and figured it was the easiest route. I figured the extra money and extra work it would take to get the HO header to work was probably not worth the minimal HP gain I would recieve.

sooooo....the last few weeks my truck has been idling high as hell. I'm talking so high it sounds like I'm starting a jet when I fire it up and when I drove the thing it would just cruise at about 45 mph without my foot on the gas. So I jumped on good old comancheclub and used the search function and found out that I it could be the IAC or the TPS. So today I had some time so I drive to Napa Auto Parts and spent over 100 bucks on a new IAC and TPS and hoped this would fix my problem. When I get home I pop the hood and remember reading on here that a couple guys said to check your exhaust manifold bolts because if they are loose it can cause a high idle problem. So right before I throw the new parts on I figure what the hell and check the bolts...I could turn all of them by hand! So I crank them down and fire it up and my truck runs like a dream now! Idles perfect and runs great! Lesson learned....check the easy crap first, and check it before you drop 100 bones on parts you don't need. Good thing I called Napa and they said I can turn the parts back in and get my money back. Thanks for the help guys....the search function is my friend :)

SWEET! I love you guys! PM Sent

I was trying to remove the seals that are attatched to the cab of the truck on the windshield pillars located inside the upper front door jam area. After some research I think they are called secondary seals? So when I removed them I totally ruined them...the seals fell apart and the push in screw things that held them in place all broke. So I need some new ones...I found these on Team Cherokee http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/cgi-bi ... y&catid=95 but the picture of them looks different then the ones I took off my truck. The ones I took off my truck have 5 holes for mounting screws and the ones in the team cherokee pic only have three? Does anyone know if these are the right ones or does anybody know where I can get the right ones? Also does anybody know where to get the mounting screws? They are not your average screw, more like a plastic push in screw with a piece of metal in the tip...team cherokee does not appear to sell them? Any help would be appreciated.

hmmm....after working as a LEO for a couple years now I am gonna have to say this guy was in no way an officer of anything and was lyin his @$$ off. Just another punk carrying a gun and after flashing it to you realized he could get in trouble so threw the badge thing out there hoping you would just leave.

well if anybody in the california area has a SWB roll bar they want to trade for my LWB roll bar let me know!

ya i checked it out...it looks pretty simple. Instead of mounting to the front of the wheel tub if you cut it down and change the angle of the cut it should easily mount to the top of the wheel tub.

the roll bar is for a LWB....my truck is a SWB. So I am either gonna cut it down to make it fit my SWB or either sell or trade it. I could not pass it up for the price, I already checked it out and I don't think it would be hard at all to cut it down to make it fit my SWB. Oh and this thing is in perfect shape...not a single dent or scratch.

haha...just scored a OEM Comanche roll bar off of craigslist for 50 bucks! Just got home with it...I don't have it installed yet but will get some pics up soon. I love craigslist, between my 50 dollar comanche roll bar and my 100 dollar MJ Dana 44 I think I'm on a roll!

installed a new exhaust manifold (old one had a big crack in it) and bled my brake lines.

I'm running a tapco stock on one of my SKS's. I really like it and it totally improves the ergonomics of the rifle. I will warn you though a lot of internet commandos will poke fun at the tapco stock saying that you are ruining the rifle and sks's are best if kept in their original configuration. But who cares what others think, its your rifle right? I don't have a forward pistol grip on mine but if that is your cup of tea throw one on, I am running a forward pistol grip on one of my AR15 and I like it. oh and if your sks has a bayonet on it then you definatley want to get the tapco stock cut for the bayo, otherwise you will not be able to close your bayonet. check out this forum....loads of info on SKS's and tapco stocks. http://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php

I don't think my trans power button works. The light does not come on and I don't feel crap when I flip the switch back and forth :fs1:

even governemnt jobs are not the best...I work as a sheriff and last january I was told the county budget went to hell and I had to go. Lucky for me I foundy another county hiring deputies and got picked up quick, I did have to sit on un employment for a month before it was all official though.