driggity

I discovered the same thing with mine after the November storm we had. The center axle disconnect wasn't engaging so I just locked it in place. Pretty simple and free fix.

I think some of the aftermarket steering setups utilize the 91 and newer tie rod ends. That's probably what is on your truck.

This is what I've been thinking about and will probably end up doing. Before I spent time on it (and probably have at least one attempt where I screw something up I figured I'd see if there where other options. Sounds like there aren't.

From what I've read you have to cut away some of the sheetmetal before you install them. I think they're made of the same material as the regular bushwacker flares so they'd be just as susceptible to breaking. I think they'd look good on an MJ but I really like the look of flat fenders in general.

I recently bought a Bac Pac canopy for my Comanche and it fits pretty well with one problem. My truck has the bed light over the rear window and the canopy doesn't have a cutout for this. Because of the lack of cutout I can't slide the canopy quite as far forward as I would like. The canopy is usable as is but I'd like to be able to move it closer to the cab. There there a piece available anywhere that would cover the opening if the light is removed? I could probably poorly make something myself or get something made but if there's already an option out there I'll take it. Thanks.

So I was having some issues with my truck starting and tracked it down to the starter relay. It ended up being a bad ground but the starter relay had a fair amount of corrosion so I went ahead and replaced it. Now I have two questions. 1. Is there a problem with connecting the ground from the starter relay straight to the negative terminal of the battery? Everything seems to work fine when I do this and from checking the wiring diagram the only thing I can see is that it would allow the truck to start in gear instead of Park or Neutral (its an automatic). 2. The second issue is that the replacement starter relay that I got has one fewer terminal on it. On the original relay this was marked with an "F" (labeled as "Fuel Pump Ballast Resistor Terminal" in the Fuel System section of the Service Manual) and had an orange wire connected to it. It seems like everything works when this wire is disconnected so I'm not sure what it's prupose is. From the wiring diagram it looks like it eventually goes to the A/C Clutch Relay (I don't have an A/C so no problem there), the EGR canister solenoid (not sure what purpose that serves), and one of the pins on the fuel pump. Like I said everything seems to work and the truck runs as well as it did before but if this is important I'd like to know and I'll get a new relay to use. Thanks

Recently my Comanche hasn't wanted to start back up after a short drive (I haven't driven it very far since this started happening). When I try to start it it back up the warning lights on the dash go out but nothing happens. No noise at all. I'm assuming the starter is bad but is there some other problem it could be? I did change the sensor in the radiator that controls the aux cooling fan and had the refill the anti-freeze but I don't know if that could have anything to do with it. It seems to run fine and no warning lights are coming on. Thanks.

My truck has a leak from the gas tank when full so this weekend I started the process of removing the old tank. Once I got the plastic "tank protector" off I realized that everything down there was in bad shape in terms of surface rust. I've gotten two of the three nuts loose that hold the staps on the inboard side of the tank and think I'll be able to get the third loose so I'm not too concerned about that. I'm worried about the condition of the straps themselves though and want to replace them. However I can't tell how the straps connect on the outboard side. It almost looks like there are straps attached to the frame that then hook onto the straps that go under the tank and connect to the bolts on the inboard side but I can't tell because of all the rust and gunk that is built up. If I get replacement straps do they attach directly to the frame and if so how? If not how do they attach? Thanks.

When I bought my 1993 V-8 ZJ swaybar from a junk yard it came with links that were longer than the stock ones on my Comanche. Just another option.

No A/C no E-Fan :smart: I have no A/C and i have an electric fan so i don't now if thats true My truck also has an electric fan but no A/C.

Are the S-10 dimensions listed on that picture the outer dimensions of the bed? I assume so but just want to be sure. Thanks.

Completely gone on my truck. Nice place to stick magnets though. And the paint there is the best looking paint on the entire truck. Which isn't too difficult I suppose.

http://www.automotivetouchup.com/ seems to have all the colors too. Although I had to look up my truck as an 88 American Motors in order to get the right paint code to show up (BD aka Grenadine Metallic). I haven't used them but just wanted to give a heads up as its another site that I've found.

I could be wrong but I thought that Hellcreek had 3 inch lift full spring packs that were rated to the same load capacity as the factory Metric ton springs.

I think this thread is what you were looking for. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17171 Page 2 has the part number for the dual terminal group 34 Duralast Gold. 34DT-DLG

Thanks guys. I didn't know what would happen with a bad CPS so that was just my first thought. Like I said I'm new to jeeps. I'll start with the battery cables and terminals and go from there as it does seem that it's not even trying to turn over. Hopefully it is something that simple and the starter didn't magically choose this time to die.

I recently picked up a swaybar from a 93 Grand Cherokee V8 and the links are longer than what are on my 88 Comanche. They seem to be the same shape. When I take the old swaybar off the Comanche I'll take a picture of the links side by side. Not sure when I'll be able to get to it though.

I'm new to Jeeps so this is probably a useless question but you guys seem tolerant of the noobs so here goes. :cheers: As a bit of background I bought an 88 Comanche a few weeks ago and it has always been a bit reluctant to start but then ran pretty well after it fired up. Since I've had it I've removed, cleaned, and reinstalled the valve cover gasket, replaced all the CCV vacuum lines, changed the plugs, and changed the oil/filter. None of these did anything noticeable to how it ran. Anyways I read something (can't remember who posted it) about using brake cleaner to clean around the CPS in the What is "the most important tip you'd share with MJ owners?" thread so I tried this over the weekend. The only other things I tried to was spraying PB blaster on some suspension components in preparation of replacing them and on the battery hold downs and battery terminals so I can actually get the cables off and replace them so I don't think that will have effected anything. When I tried to start the truck up after doing all of this it completely failed to start. Now it just makes an evenly timed repetitive clicking sound. It sounds louder than just a solenoid. I haven't had time to have my wife try to start the car while I try and pinpoint the noise. I also haven't picked up a spark plug test light yet so I can't confirm that I'm not getting spark. I assume I did something to the CPS so I tried to disconnect the sensor and the truck acts the same way. Does this sound like a CPS problem? I figure it couldn't hurt to replace the CPS so I'll do that but I was wondering if anyone had any other suggestions for things to try so I can just pick them up at the parts store while I'm there. Thanks.

Newbie to Jeeps here and I have a simple question on this subject. I'm looking at running 31x10.50s on my Comanche once I get it sorted and at least at first would like to run with no lift. I've seen the posts stating that the WJ lower control arms will eliminate rubbing but what about aftermarket lower control arms? It seems like these are all straight and would therefore have the same issue as the stock arms. Are these arms just narrower than the stock arms? If not it seems like even lifting the truck wouldn't fix this issue. Can anyone explain this for me?

The light is mounted on the outside of the cab above the rear window and lights up the bed. Pretty convenient. For what it's worth I think my 88 is a Pioneer and it has this switch and light. It also has the foglight switch but doesn't have any foglights. I haven't figured out if it used to have the foglights and a previous owner removed them.

I know you were looking for an electrical fix but I know that some people have been able to get away with a mechanical fix. The cheapest and easiest version was to use two spark plug anti-foulers to move the sensor out of the airstream. You take the first anti fouler and screw it into the exhaust where the O2 sensor would go. Then take the second anti fouler and drill it out so that the O2 sensor can screw into it. If you don't drill it out the O2 sensor will be too long to fit. Once it's drilled out you screw it into the first anti fouler and then screw the O2 sensor into second anti fouler. As long as you have enough clearance to fit the anti foulers (and some exhaust setups don't) and enough slack in the O2 sensor wiring this seems to work pretty well.