Rymanrph

I do have some vibes, but they could be for a couple reasons. The first is completely un-related to the drive line. My exhaust has always sat a little low (even with a new trans mount) and it rattles against the trans cross member. My other issue is that the drive shaft is really too short. There isn't much contact of splines between the output shaft and the slip yoke. Its possible that having a slightly longer drive shaft might solve my problem. I'm going to take some measurements this weekend and see if I can come up with a standard length in another vehicle that might suffice (lwb 4x4 shaft?) The reason for the shims is because I had a separate axle set up for the SOA. The shop that welded them on wasn't able to put it up under the truck to accurately measure the angle. Essentially, they just guessed and got it as close as they could.

I like the old pioneer decals too, especially on the white. Welcome!

Does anyone have a part number for the drop shackles, or at least a year that I can give the parts counter?

I got the truck aligned yesterday and they pretty much confirmed what I was afraid of. I really need a SYE and CV shaft. I have two options, the first being a full tail shaft replacement and shaft from Tom Woods for $500. I can also do a hack and tap for $100 plus the cost of the shaft. What do most people do, lengthen a front XJ shaft? The drive shaft shop I spoke with told me to stay away from the hack and tap because its just a temporary solution. I obviously don't want to spend more than I have to, but I don't want to spend money twice either. I'm not sure which direction to go.

Can you not change the mileage yourself? When I swapped in a new cluster, I was able to disassemble the odometer and spin the wheels to the right mileage.

Welcome! You have a very nice looking truck that appears to be in great condition. Since its a '92, everyone will want to know the build date.

Yesterday, I felt pretty stupid (actually, I still feel pretty stupid today). As I mentioned, I was hearing a terrible clacking sound coming from the AC compressor. I purchased a new compressor and accumulator and proceeded to install it yesterday (after paying someone to evacuate my system). The install went fine, but after starting the truck back up, the clacking was still there. It turns out that my compressor was fine; somehow my fan shroud had shifted slightly and the fan was contacting it :oops: . So I was a little embarrassed, but glad I could return the $260 worth of new equipment. I would only be out the cost of evacuating and charging the system right? Not so fast. As I was removing the new parts to reinstall the old parts, the tube coming from the evaporator that attaches to the accumulator decided to break off :headpop: . I was able to order a new one for about $70 shipped from Rock Auto which isn't that bad. I just don't look forward to removing the dash to replace it. I just got the long arms done and I was looking forward to just driving it for a while without having to work on it. I'm praying for cooler weather since I won't have AC the rest of the week. The lesson here is make sure you check all the easy simple solutions before jumping to something a lot more complicated. :doh:

Looks like we'll be able to hit up Uwharrie together a little sooner than planned. Let me know when you're finished and we'll take a trip up there.

The rear end right now is about 1.25" lower than the front. I actually like a rack to a truck; I think it looks right, so I'm not worried about it being taller than the front and if it ends up being too much, I've got the ACOS to make up as much room as I need. The rear shims are in and while its not 100% ideal, its close. I'm sitting maybe 1/2° below parallel (should be 2°, but 8° shims were the biggest I could find). If I end up doing the SYE and CV shaft, I should be able to get it exactly where I need it. My NP242 has a fixed shaft on the end, so the slip yoke doesn't slide into the case, but onto the shaft. There is engagement there, but not enough to be satisfied with.

The one thing I noticed is the spacing of the rear wheels within the flares. I centered the flares when I was on the old 3" lift springs, now they are closer to the rear. The back end needs to come up just a bit, so if swap in some stock 4wd leafs or some longer shackles, it should bring them a little closer to center. I put about 35 miles on it today. It has some vibrations, but I can't tell if its because it needs an alignment or because of the drive shaft(s). We'll see.

Well, its pretty much done I suppose. I'm pretty sure both drive shafts are too short now, but I think they'll be OK until I go offroad. It still needs an alignment and a couple other little things. My biggest problem is my AC compressor (clutch?) is clacking like crazy now. It happens whether the ac is on or not. I'll have to fix that because its incredibly annoying. Here are a couple pictures as of today:

Ok, so those bolts weren't exactly what I thought they might be. Turns out there was nothing mysterious or wrong. The bushings were just new and very very stiff. A little heat, a lot of lube and a lot of pressure and I was finally able to get the sleeves in. The bar pins on the front were tough, but not quite as bad.

OK, well I feel a little stupid. It was getting late last night after having worked on this truck for quite a while. Below is the kit that I purchased: The bolts in the lower left look like they are for securing the shocks to the mount on the axle side. I haven't really examined them yet, but I totally forgot I had them :doh: . I'll have to give them a whirl; hopefully I won't have the same issue with the RE sleeves that came with the shocks. I'm still not sure how to get the bushing over the stud on the frame side though. Hopefully I'll have a positive update this evening. I need to stop working on the truck when its late and I'm tired.

Yeah I didn't try to use the sleeve up top. The shocks are Rubicon Express branded Bilstein 5100 series.

I guess I could, but I still can't get the shock to mount up top either.

I'm not trying to put the sleeve on the top, but even without it, I can't get it over the stud/bolt. The bushing on the bottom (and the top) is meant for a 1/2" bolt, but the holes on my shock mounts aren't that big, so the sleeve is to make up the slack that would be present if I don't use it. I took some pictures for reference. Here is the bolt through the shock mount: Here is the bolt through the shock: And here is the bolt through the sleeve:

I'm finishing up my SOA conversion in the rear and tonight I was ready to bolt on my new shocks, but for the life of me I couldn't get the bushing to slip over the mounted stud/bolt on the frame nor could I slide the sleeve in the lower bushing. I sprayed grease on them and tried to warm them up with a hair dryer, but I couldn't even get them started. Am I missing something? I didn't have this issue with the shocks I just took off (when I installed them two years ago). With everything else I've done, this made me feel pretty stupid. :wall:

As of today, I have owned my Comanche longer than any of the 8 Jeeps I've owned - 956 days. It doesn't sound like much, but I've had eight Jeeps since I bought my first five years ago.

For some reason, I had it in my mind that your grill and headlight buckets were going to be body color. It would be awesome if you could get them in the same hyper black to match you wheels. Regular chrome would look good too I guess. They really did an awesome job with your paint. It looks fantastic.

Somehow this post from last Saturday didn't make it past a draft. Any how, I got the hitch installed. It wasn't the easy thing to install by myself. Once I was done I realized that I have a big gap on the passenger side and hardly one at all on the driver's side.

Just hit this yesterday:

That looks more like Jeep Dozer Orange than Toxic Orange. I don't dislike it, but the front end is missing something. Maybe if the grill inserts were black or something. I think I could handle either the red or the green, but both on the orange is just a little much. As much as I love custom colors on different vehicles, I could not have painted that truck anything but the original green. It was pretty sharp looking. Dozer: Toxic Orange:

First we need to get some finished drivable pictures on here (wheeling pictures to follow). My shocks came in yesterday, but I didn't have time to install them because I was messing with the brakes. I bleed the system, but the pedal still feels a little spongy. The rear brakes need adjusting pretty badly and then the emergency brakes needs adjustment. I had forgotten that I used my original Dana 35 e-brake cables on the other 8.25. The 8.25 cables are really long. I have my control arms left and right set at the same lengths, but my wheel base is about 3/4" longer on the driver side. I'm not really sure how that is possible, but I'm going to pull out the passenger side a bit to compensate and then hope the alignment shop can dial it in. The shims for the rear axle came Monday, so I'm going to try and get those installed tonight. I hope to have the truck driving this weekend.

When I did the 4wd conversion on my '90, the old 2wd calipers wouldn't work on my '97 Dana 30. I believe the 4wd calipers are a little bigger.

Old lift kit and wheels and tires are for sale. Click below. Lift Kit: viewtopic.php?f=24&t=36653 Wheels and Tires: viewtopic.php?f=24&t=36652