Jaime

But do you think that the CPS is bad, with the results I got and should I change the O2 sensor?

I checked the CPS and got a reading of .47 volts AC using a Fluke multimeter. I also had 2 cheap meters that I used and they gave me a reading of .3 volts AC. I used the cheap meters because the Fluke has so many settings that I sometimes wonder if I have it on the correct setting. What do you think is the CPS bad? The O2 sensor is about 2 years old. Is their a way to test the O2 sensor or is it time to change it? I checked Cruiser's tips and could not find a test for it.

Thanks for the response. I thought that when the CPS goes bad it just won't let the engine run. Or least that what happened when it went out before.

Hello everyone, Here I am again with another problem with my 88, 4.0, 5 speed. This is the third day in a row that my truck shuts off on the way to work. I happens while I am accelerating. Not heavy acceleration, just normal stop and go traffic. The first two days I was in third gear when it shut off, tack went to zero. I put in second popped the clutch and away I went. Today I was in fourth when it happened I put it in third popped the clutch only this time it didn't start wright away. It took longer to start and when it did it back fired. Three loud pops and a good amount of dark smoke. Then away it went as if nothing happened. It only happens in the morning about 2 miles into the drive. Before and after it happens it runs smooth and does not happen on the way home. I appreciate any help anyone can give me as this my only ride. Thanks

Thanks That is the info I was looking for.

Hello everyone, I am looking to buy a Cherokee so I can fit the grand kids when we go to the lake fishing. I was hoping you guys could guide me as to what years, engine, transmissions, transfer case etc. to stay away from or which are desirable in a Cherokee. I want to get one with 4 wheel drive, automatic, AC and 4 doors. I am looking for one under $1500. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I'll give it a shot. Thanks again.

The heater valve has a tee that goes to the top of the bottle. Do I cut the metal part of the heater valve or do I just look for a metal/brass tee to make the appropriate connections.

Seems simple enough. Thanks I don't know how I managed to post this twice. Can someone please delete the other post.

Hello, I'm trying to get my cooling system together and have a question on the hose that goes to the pressure bottle. It seems that both of the hoses that go to pressure bottle have a very small leak. Both of them seem to be fitted hoses. NAPA shows the heater valve, which I can then put regular hoses with clamps. I can't seem to find the other hose that goes to the pressure bottle. My question is can I some how pry the hose off the metal pipe and put regular heater hoses on it or is this something that I have purchase as a unit. It's a 88, 4.0, 5 speed 4x4. Thanks

Thank you everyone. It looks like ultra black for the water pump, thermostat, and Loctite for the RMS. I may go to the dealer for the thermostat because the one I got from napa does not have the hole. Next I need to collect a few more funds to get a two core radiator and I'll be set. Thanks again

I just seem to remember from my high school shop days that you had to remove the distributor and insert a screwdriver looking thing. Then you hooked it up to a drill for about a minute and we were told now the pump is primed. Did you use sealant on your rms?

Thanks for the responses. Can I use it on the rms and if I can only on the tabs correct? What about the little ball bearing in the thermostat. Was I correct in this? I have an additional question. I also bought an oil pump since I have such high mileage and was going to have access to the pump I figured I'd change it. But the instructions say to prime it using a priming tool. Can anybody tell me the procedure for priming the pump?

Hello I just about got everything together to replace my rear main seal, water pump, thermostat, and radiator. The guy at Napa said to use Permatex Ultra Black for the oil pan, thermostat, and the water pump. For some reason it just doesn't seem right to me. The package says rtv silicone gasket maker. What do you think? I also remember seeing a post somewhere about the thermostat having a ball bearing in it and making sure that it was to the top. But the thermostat I got from Napa does not have it. Am I correct in this, and if I am, do I need it or can I use the one I bought without the bearing. It's an 88 4.0 4x4. Also I got the one piece felt pro oil pan gasket. Does it use sealant? Because when I did the valve cover gasket, I didn't use any sealant, and this gasket looks just like it.

This may come a little late or even if you are intrested but you can also change the background of the gages to white if you want. If you go to http://jeep-xj.info/ and scroll down to White Gauges shows how to change the blacks gauges to white backgrounds for $10. you can order the background and even change the illumination color. I was thinking of doing this to my cluster but I kind of like the original color.

About a year ago I had a similar problem and replaced a lot of parts unnecessarily. It ended up being the rubber hose at the fuel filter. When cold it ran fine but once the day warmed up the road, the hose would collapse and make the truck run like crap. The odd thing about it was that the hose was solid except for one spot that was against the frame. I don't know if this is your problem but worth a try. Also check the hose that goes from steel pipe to the fuel rail.

Thank you. I reset the new odometer to my original milage. Not hard at all. Thanks again.

I am leaning towards the 2 row all metal. I asume that I have a 1 row in it now. It works fine even with a pin hole. At first I was going to have the original radiator fixed but now I want a new radiator. Just have to save up.

I never thought about that. This gives me more reason to ask if it would hurt the new cluster if I put a drill on the pigtail coming out of the speedometer and ran it backwards until I hit the milage on my original cluster.

Thanks for the quick response. I was at the junk yard and had my son post this for me. I was able to snag the instrument cluster and a rear view mirror for $15.00 Is there any way to move the mileage back? It shows about 100,000 miles more than mine. Thanks again

Will the instrument panel off a automatic cherokee work on my 5 speed MJ?

That's it. The shop here in vegas wants $252 for a 2 row all metal. The radiator barn wants $276 for a 3 row all metal. I think I'll keep saving until I can afford a the three row to deal with the vegas heat. I know I said three row at fist but a closer look at the price they quoted was for a 2 row. Thank You!

Hello everyone, I am planning on buying a new radiator soon. I was going to have my old one repaired but was told $80.00 or a new 3 core for $240.00. I remember see a post on here for a new one on line but for the life of me I just can't find it. I did a search and went back a few months and nothing. Also if my funds allow I plan on replacing the water pump. There is one at NAPA for $41.00 or should I just leave it alone until it stops working

Sorry I was'nt able to get back sooner but here is what I have so far. The mileage is 132,000, it is not lifted and the tire size is goodyear 235-70-16. The tires are not hitting on anything that we can see. He tells me that the turn stops are OK only one per side. He has also taken it to the alignmet shop three times and was told everything is within spec. He is also plans to take it to another shop just in case the first one is wrong. Thanks again

Hello everyone. I know this isn't an mj but close. My son-in-law has a 2001 xj 4.0 2 wheel drive he plans on giving to my granddaughter for graduation. The problem is that when the steering wheel is turned all the way to the left it feels like it hops almost as if was a 4x4 but it's not. Not as bad to the right. He also says that you can see that one wheel is turned more than the other but when the tires are pointing straight they look even . It kind of seems like that to me too or I may have just convinced myself that it is. He has taken it to the alignment shop 3 times and they say it is fine We have also gotten underneath it while the other one moves the steering wheel back and forth and nothing looks loose. What do you think? Thanks in advance.