Jaime

This is the result using the Pioneer #CA3068. I have a small bounce of about 1/8 to 1/4 inch, from 0 to about 35 mph. It gradually gets smaller. After 35 mph no bounce. The cable is 20 inches longer and the tip is slightly smaller but hey it works. The hardest part is trying to get the grommet to go on. I still can't get on. If I get the opportunity to get another speedometer I'll swap it because I still think that it might be part of the bouncing problem. Thanks everyone for the input.

Hey I found it. It's on the Napa site called Cable Lubricant Graphite Lubricant to Penetrate Cables. I'll pick some up tomorrow.

Thanks I'll try the Mystery oil.

What did you use to grease it with? I thought your not supposed to use regular wheel grease because it'll gum up.

No I didn't lube it! What can I use? Stopped at the parts stores they all said I don't know. I kind of remember from my younger days about using transmission fluid. I checked the routing and it's about as straight as it can get except for the extra length, 20", that the new cable has. But it's not kinked. It has a fairly smooth bend.

Well I got the cable and installed it. I think my speedometer may also be bad. The speedometer works but the needle bounces a bit then settles down and doesn't bounce as much. The cable is 20" longer than the original and does not have the plastic tip. It is square cable just like the other end. The best that I could tell it is just the slightest bit smaller than the plastic tip which is why I installed it. I can only load 1 picture at a time so I'll have to send the other pictures one at a time.

Will do. I went to Auto Zone and ordered pioneer #ca3068. It won't come in until later this week. I'll let you know.

Here they are. I just don't want pay for something and it not be the correct one.

It's an 88,4,0, lwb, 5 speed, not cruise control.

Hello, My speedometer cable broke, well the plastic tip that goes on the end. I have tried Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, Napa, and Car Quest. They all, except O'Reilly's, have the one that screws on both ends. O'Reilly's can't bring up a picture and when I did a search here somebody said that it was the wrong one. It was also mentioned that they lost the shipping cost. I also tried the build your own cable but the tip is too small and just spins in the speedometer hole. Can anyone point me in the right direction part number, brand, who to purchase it from etc.. Thank you.

Thanks for the reply. I just didn't know if there was a special trick to feed the wire thru.

Hello, It seems that I need to replace my turn signal switch on my 88 5 speed. When I push the handle, up or down, it might work sometimes but mostly not. I can make it work sometimes if I wiggle the handle and then hold it when it works. I've searched here without any luck. I got some luck on YouTube. My question is there a trick on getting the wires down the column . The videos I've seen show them cutting the old wires and then taping the new connector to the old wires. But it only goes so far then stops. After that they just ran the wires on the outside of the column. Is this the way to do it or is there some trick? Oh by the way I haven't taken it apart yet. Just want to get some info before I do.

Hello , I've wondered if somebody can help me out? I am looking at a 2002 Jeep grand Cherokee. Is somebody able to look up a Carfax report for me.? The vin number is 1j4gw48s22c109503. Thank you!

Hello, Well I finished the upgrade and everything seems to be working fine. I ended up hitting the plate with a hammer but that revealed another area that rubbed. The part that the sheet metal screws onto was also rubbing. So I just took a file to it and that solved that problem. Thanks everyone for the help. It is very much appreciated.

Hello, I finished the upgrade on my 88 4x4. I installed WJ booster and master cylinder and eliminated the load sensing valve. Replaced the pads, shoes, drums and rotors. It was a quite a chore, especially in this 100 plus degree weather out here. I have one big problem. The new front passenger rotor rubs on the metal sheet metal plate behind the rotor. I asked the Autozone clerk if there was a left and right rotor. The answer was no. If I put the old driver side rotor on the passenger side it rubs but the old passenger side rotor does not. The part number of the Autozone rotor is 5108. Can anyone tell me if there is a left and right rotor do I need to find a new vendor and what part number do I use. Thanks again.

Hello, It is time for me to do the brakes on my 88 4x4 long bed. I wanted to do the WJ Master Cylinder and Booster upgrade along with eliminating the load sensing valve, if needed, and pads and shoes. I'm pretty sure I have the booster and master cylinder figured out but I need some guidance on the load sensing valve. How do I connect the lines to the Proportioning block? What kind of connectors are needed at the wheel cylinders and what T junction do I use? Do I use the Proportioning block from the donor WJ, my truck, or do I use an after market block ( and which one)? How can I test my load sensing valve to test if I even need to eliminate it? I am using the examples in the DIY section but I can't find anything on these questions. I have also done a search but can't find a answer to my questions. I do remember Pete posting a diagram of how to route the lines and someone else using an adjustable proportioning block for the back brakes. But I can't seem to find them and get any feedback on the adjustable one. How is it working after time in use. I am going to the pick a part this weekend to pull what I can and hopefully complete this project this weekend as this is my daily driver. So any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank You Jaime

I checked the connector to the ignition switch and the switch itself. I found the connector to be a little dirty but not melted. Cleaned it up the best I could. It made no difference. I had to put it back together for work. Also the switch is about 2 years old. And the problem was present before the new switch. Eagle the way you explained makes a lot more sense to me. I don't know what else to try. Thanks everyone for the help. If you can think of anything else I can try please let me know. Jaime

Hello, Well I removed the bottom panel of the dash and lowered the steering column in order to reach the ignition switch. I then probed every wire and fuses I could. I got about 13 volts without the blower on and about 12 with it on. I haven't put it back together. I was hopping that I could get some more info on what else to check before I have to put it together tomorrow before work. I read that when it on hi power comes from the battery itself but not what wire to check. Also if the wire from the ignition switch is getting hot enough to damage the connector do you know of a fix? Thanks again. Jaime

Hello, Thanks for the great response. You have definitely given me a solid starting point. I plan on tackling the system this weekend. I wish I could do it tonight but it's dark and cold out. There is only two of us in our department and my partner is out for the next few weeks. So that means a lot of 12 to 14 hour shifts. Thanks again for all the great info. Jaime

But it doesn't explain why the blinkers and the wipers run very slow when the blower is on high. Also I don't have AC but it acts like a vehicle with AC when it is turned on. The engine bogs down.

Hello, So I put the volt meter on the battery posts and I got these results with the engine running: nothing on 14.3 volts lights only 14.1 fan on low 14.1 fan on medium low 14.0 fan on medium high 13.9 fan on high 13.8 with the fan on high, lights on, blinkers on, and wipers on 13.7 - 13.8. What do you think? Jaime

So if it's not the resistor what else can it be?