AMC86Kid

Needs this and lots of love

Bottom of the gauge goes to Batt. + Top of gauge goes to the O.P.-Sender and the last prong (silver) goes to Batt. -

I applied an air compressor to the sensor to fool it into thinking it’s on the engine and I finally got it on too took forever

I figured it out Engine off Engine on

The cluster is the stock one that came with the truck (so whatever they had in 86) ok I got the part now I’m gonna bench test it and see if I can figure out how it’s suppose to be wired to the gauge

I have removed all the stock wiring in my truck since it was to messy and dirty the best thing for me was to start over with new wiring, so far I have everything wired in the gauge cluster and working but the oil gauge is the only one I haven’t finished yet

Oh so I need one of the big fat gauges like this

ok than i will just go buy a new sensor https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/standard-ignition-5753/lighting---electrical-16777/sensors-16480/engine-sensors-25049/oil-pressure-sensor-switch-12875/9a4df8f34742/standard-ignition-1-terminal-oil-pressure-switch/ps15/5815754?q=PS15&pos=0 i will see if this operates between 0 - 88 ohms and if it does than i just gotta figure out how to connect it to the gauge

Ok so I found this so it opperates between 0 - 80 psi and from 1 ohm - 88 ohms so as the pressure goes up the resistance does too and it looks like one pin on the back of the gauge gets positive another gets negative and the third gets signal from the sender now i need to figure out which pin it is that the sender goes to

i see that but I'm trying to figure out what the other two sensors are for and even if i go buy a new 2.8 oil pressure sender how do i wire it to the gauge?

Ok I took a look around and here what it’s got these on top of the engine that look like there water temp related The oil oil filter is just capped off with a plug And I found these two that look like they might work this is on the oil pan on the right side of the engine (driver side) This one is in the middle of the engine on the passenger side Does anyone know know if I can use these to connect to the oil pressure gauge ?

i will look at my rebuilt engine and see if one of the sensors on it can be used for the gauge

ok i looked up how the oil pressure sender that you showed in the pic works it has 3 pins and the middle one is basically a variable resistor my question now is how should i wire it to the gauge what pin behind the gauge gets power and which one gets signal from the sender

ok so how does the oil pressure sender work does it have to be touching the oil ? does it run off of resistance?

Can anyone tell me how to wire the Oil Pressure Gauge ? I’m doing it from scratch, what type of sensor do I have to connect it to , and when wiring it where should you put the fuse ?

Well the oring swap stopped the leak after I monkeyed around with getting it on and fixing the timing for hours it runs now I gotta clean up all the oil, and re top it off with new oil also I’m gonna look up how to hook up an oil pressure gauge

The old oring (left) does appear to be thicker then the new oring (right)

And here’s the old ones stock oring maybe this is just a better oring

Ok I will swap out the orings then here’s the new ones stock oring

Could I use this to seal the threads on the tie down bolt

Oh ok good point I will look at the old one and see if there’s any difference

Ok show how do you guys recommend on sealing this leak and I’m assuming I need to do it on both the distributor and the tow down bolt

And here is the oil party when the engine is running 52C2F258-CD10-489A-8564-31B9D07E73A0.MOV

Well it appears that somehow oil is just splurging from the distributor lock down bolt or the distributor, when the engine is running I will upload a video so you guys can take a look for yourself and confirm if I’m right Here’s a video of it before I run the engine 4EA58EA7-9FEC-4141-839B-E7D61845984F.MOV

Your right eagle it’s not all metal like the original one but I have no clue where to even buy an original one so I just got this one and it works just fine, plus it’s a little longer than the old one so you have more wire to work with behind the cluster