Green Mesa XJ

Sorry went to get a picture of what I was talking about and the app posted the previous post. Anyhow four parts are different between the two distributors. The casing is different with no place to mount the vacuum advance. Ignition module is deferent. Vacuum advance Centrifugal advance Last picture (upside down distributor)has the rotor still on it but underneath is a glimpse of the centrifugal advance This picture is the kind of distributor you have now not a good pic but you can see some of the differences. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

No, you need two piece besides the vacuum. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

True. Almost perfect for this situation. Although i have a feeling the ecu is jacking the electronic advance around in this jeep since the last owners have had trouble with “tuning”. More people use vacuum reading to help set the mixture but in this case as long as the mixture wasn’t touched it ought to be set The vacuum trick for setting timing is a good one I didn’t even remember. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

It hard for me to say cause it’s your money. I’d hate to cause you waste it. I believe I’m correct about the part based on my experience working in auto parts and that rock autos counter jockey aren’t familiar with the parts they are selling or the at intricacies of these old carbureted setups. I think it’s worth a punt, but it could be causing you a hassle retiring if it’s completely wrong, only thing I really hate about rock auto is the bloody return policy and cost to ship wrong crap back to them. Sometimes if the ship cost out weighs the benefit of return I keep the part which I didn’t need and was wrong. Entropy of life I guess. BTW that vacuum timing might be worth a go. I’ve never done it but know of people who have. If you can get it running right without a new distributor you might be better off. Again I wouldn’t touch the mixture, Weber & Holley carbs I’ve helped set up were good to go out of the box for sea level. Unless your real high altitude it shouldn’t be a problem. I know for sure on the 2.8 it was perfect out of the box. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Nah they (rockauto) are wrong. If it looks like the picture it comes with the vacuum advance. They got it in their catalogue wrong thinking it is without vacuum which is totally different. If it’s federal emissions “ except California “ it has to have the vacuum advance and centrifugal advance. The other designs for that description is what you have now. They generally don’t come rebuilt without the vacuum advance if they are the vacuum advance design. It’s just one of those parts that needs to be to spec and that’ll get the distributor warranted out ever DIY screw up. The rarest part of that distributor is the wire from ignition control module to the ignition coil. Here is the website for that manufacture http://www.autoline.ca/distributors.htm This is their parts catalog http://www.showmetheparts.com/autoline/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

What, rockauto said that distributor was not vacuum advance? I looked it up with the suppliers the part # was for vacuum advance. In this case for that part number I don’t think rockauto knows what the hell they are talking about. They’d have to put hands on it to be sure. Now if the timing tab bolts up to the 3.4 timing cover, I’d still get the TDC mark to line up with that tabs 0. Edit: I mean make sure that the timing tab 0 matches the engine 0 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

You shouldn’t have to really tune that carburetor. Aside from idle speed. The choke isn’t going to fully open up until it’s got power going to it. Did you replace the distributor with vacuum advance? For setting the timing you need a certain RPM (700?) which is not an engine on a fast cold idle. Since you have the 3.4 timing cover and no marks to work with, you can add something to mark timing like you were talking about earlier if the 3.4 has the bolt pattern for it, possibly find a tape the fits the circumference of the Harmonic balancer and get timing marks that way, or find TDC, Mark that then based on the picture I uploaded of 2.8 timing cover and marks take an educated guess at about where 10 degrees BTC is (or whatever you’re supposed to be set for) Once you’re in the timing neighborhood it’ll be easier to tweak it as you drive and get a feel for it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Butterfly valves? The electric choke has no power so I doubt it’ll open all the way. How did you rig timing marks? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Freeze plugs, heater core and radiator can be sources as well. If the pump weeping it’s dying. Still I wouldn’t t rule our other sources yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

If the AX15 you’re using is out of a XJ or MJ the clicking is fine. Jeep used the transmission tale housing to clock the transfer cases. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

The top one without the altered tail shaft is the one I’d try, if it’s 23 spline. It looks normal, although I don’t know why it has vacuum switches. Thought jeep did away with those 92-93. The one with the altered tail shaft looks Frankensteined, I don’t get why is has a front housing with a switch and a rear housing with a vacuum switch near the speedometer gear. I have a couple np231 for the renix era and early HO none of them look like that. It may be ok functionally, I do know the later late 90s np231 changed their tail shafts to look like that but unless you have time to experiment I’d try the top np231 again if it’s 23 spline. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

On the same 2.8? I wouldn’t bother. It’s convoluted routing through vacuum switches, you can probably trace some of it from the pictures in the other thread but.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I’ve had the lose bolts on the torque converter it sounds like hell. I’ve listen to a video of a cracked flex plate and it sounds a little worse. But harder to spot the damage . Now there are differ kinds of noises where a lifter is stuck and then the normal 4.0 Diesel-ish sound. Since the sound does not go away with when pulling the spark plug wires I’m going to guess it’s not a rod knocking. Could still be a cracked flexplate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Or lose torque converter bolts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I don’t know about MJ fuel senders on XJ the 86 to 90 senders have the same plug and read the same. The 86 carbureted is missing the wire for power in its plug, but the three prong plug stays the same until the mid nineties. However the 91-95 senders read backwards on the 84-90 jeeps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

this guy did the Weber upgrade on a 86 MJ with automatic, in some of the pictures you can barely see how his throttle set up is. www.thomashardman.com/tech/comanche/comanche-weber/

Dunno about adding one, they sell all sorts of chevy tabs. But what does the 3.4 timing cover you're using have for placement? I bought a new aftermarket 2.8 timing cover however it comes without the tab, I didn't use it since the chevy 2.8 tabs are offset and use those special torx head bolts

I can’t tell from the pictures but the should be three mounting points on the throttle, outer most is for the spring that attaches to the valve cover, top inner is throttle, below that is kickdown cable. Basically the only way all that will line up with a factory valve cover brackets. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

No mine is a 5 speed. Is there a kick down cable for the 904? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I'll look at mine tomorrow afternoon and see how it goes, I think it only fits one way if trying to do it OEM, but you ought to have a lot of options if you get creative.

holy crap there's still a supplier for that part! Far as where it goes this diagram of the lines should help, you can see there's is a lot of crap you don't need really. There is a way to make you own canister too. I'll post the link if I find it. I'm also going to try to attach the PDF of the Weber k490 instructions, I think you must be missing them from your kit. The instructions are available freely online from the manufacture so I hope it is not problem adding it. If it is I'll delete it immediately. . Page 3 described the location of the lines and purpose for the original carburetor. Page 4 has the step by step on which lines to use and how to attach them to the Weber 38, page 7 & 8 have images of Weber carburetors Weber WK490.pdf

My Weber 38 does not have that port in the rear. According to the instructions it’s pcv, the fuel bowl vent in the front on mine does link up to the pcv but also has other lines going to the purge canister in the front. It’s had to show because it a mess of lines and there is are metal lines there running along side the cylinder head and intake manifold. If you have the factory lines still you might have the oem fuel bowl vent line still there, however I don’t think I saw the canister in the photos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

You need a power source that only comes on when the engine is supposed to be running so the choke adjusts only when the engine is on otherwise can drain the battery. If you can find the original plug for the factory choke you could use that since it should power up at the right time. Just splice the wire with the one included in the kit and run it over to the new choke. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

You have a point. The electronics do not have to be the problem, I've had plenty of them be trouble best were the Japanese cars, worst was that Chrysler 318. I stand by saying factory carb on the 2.8 is complete garbage. The history of the MJ is a bit of a mess from what I understand and I don't know I actually understand it. Apparently the previous owner had problems with "tuning the engine" started the conversion from California emission and computer but never finished it, bought a rebuilt 3.4 motor to put in it but never did it. AMCKid did, from the pictures I've seen he is missing a lot of the factory vacuum lines and a few other things the 2.8 motor should have, I'm not sure there is any going back to the factory setup for this jeep, but I'm just a guy trying look at information online long distance, I'm sure a local mechanic who knows his basic could get it up and running correctly.

this picture is from lunghd on his 2.8 to 3.4 swap http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Project_XJ/Project_XJ.htm Yellow arrow is the factory plug for the electric choke, if you can find it and verify it is power one with ignition use it, or find another wire that is hot only with ignition on. Green arrow is the factory vent tube.