Ωhm

When this relay is picked, power from Pin_4 is routed to Pin_1 and the AC clutch/Rad Fan is activated. When AC clutch/Rad Fan is deactivated, the winding of the wires within the coil/motor can cause a large voltage spike unto the circuit. Note Pin_1 is routed to Pin_3 and to ground. This configuration will tie both ends of the AC clutch/Rad Fan to ground. I believe this is added protection for the clutch diode.

Don't forget the Closed Throttle Switch (CTS). Tip of the plunger. Make sure that's functional.

Does it have a CHOKE?

Welcome to the Club.

A good starting point is Cruiser Tips 1-5. http://cruiser54.com/

Yr, Eng???? Add that information to your signature.

You found it.

I'm using the 88 electrical manual and I now notice different wiring between 2.5L and 4.0L for the O2 sensor. Try looking for the 6 ohms between pin_A and pin_B. Any one else notice this different wiring before?

Static test. No Key ON, No engine running. Your're just testing the component (O2 sensor only).

One test on O2 is to disconnect O2 sensor and on the O2 sensor side measure ohms between pin_A and pin_C. Your looking for ≈6ohms. This would be the O2 heater element.

Suggest renting/borrowing known good oil pressure gauge.

Disconnect wire at sending unit and connect ohmmeter from sending unit to ground. Start vehicle, check to see if sending unit is reading ohms between 0Ω and 88Ω's.

Hang tough buddy, hope everything goes your way.

Hose to MAP sensor.

Don't recall when it happen, but WOT was replaced with Power Steering Pressure Switch (PSPS).

With fuel line connected, bypass relay and see if engine will start and run.

When you jumper the relay, try starting the vehicle to see if it will run.

Went off grid with my visit to The Sunshine State. Voltmeter could still be fooling you (voltage, no current flow). Use a testlight for voltage measurements.

I'm in.

You should start a new thread under 'MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs' for REM issues. More eyes on the subject.

Since you've lost your courtesy lamps, I think your dropping voltage at the fuse (Dome 10A), IP splice C or the wire in between. 88 Electrical Manual Dome lamp fuse/IP splice C: page 63 IP splice C location (C with a circle around it): page 91

Voltmeters can show good voltage, but they can't determine if current will flow (voltage drop). Can you test the red (12vdc) wire with a test lamp? This will show current (thru the test lamp) can flow to ground. G102. Bottom of dash, near the steering column, when in the ON position. When in the SW position, ground is provided by each door switch. Also when the headlamp switch is turned to ON will provide a path to ground.

Isn't something suppose to be in that groove on the caliper?

So both L/R courtesy lamps don't work either?

CW57, just curious here, is your brake warning switch connector just hanging there? If you jumper the connector or leave the BWS connected, you could at least get bulb check (BRAKE) during CRANK and your parking brakes to light the BRAKE bulb. This is no big deal here, only if your interested.