BabySpinach

This is what the issue was. Remembered after taking it off that i was able to remove the screws for the ignition switch with my fingers. Slid bolt forward as much as it could, rebolted, and it turns on normally now. This was after following FSM testing for the switch and checking all wires for shorts or connectivity issues. Thanks for the help, everyone!

Sat a few months but drove fine. Got it inspected and everything. Zero issues until a day after inspection. No mods to engine. My only other guess here is the power wire on the ignition is loose or shorts.

Wouldn't i still be able to slide the slider all the way over and have the engine crank?

UPDATE: I pulled the ignition switch and REPLACED it and it's still not starting... HOWEVER.. If I jump 12v to the green wire on the ignition switch, the vehicle starts right up normally. (Even on the old switch) This was tested with the ignition switch in the on position. There is no damage to the old switch. No signs of corrosion or burning or discoloration on any terminal. I must be misunderstanding all of the inputs to that switch. One of the other wires must be the culprit.

Thank you! I will attempt tomorrow. Interesting to know this part goes bad. Makes me confident nothing else blew up given the testing I've performed.

I don't have any of the lower plastic on and I can see the area with the four bolts. Do I need to remove these four bolts shown in the second to last picture?

Starter relay has 12v on the power node. it SHOULD work as expected. Only thing I can see wrong is its not getting 12v from the ignition. By top do you mean I can remove the Gauge cluster and it will be accessible? I am confused by what you mean by lowering the column.

Getting no crank and no start when I turn the key. NSS bypassed. Still nothing. Tested Relay and I'm getting 0v from the ignition key to the relay, thus the relay isn't firing. I should be getting 12v when key is in the cranking position. I am able to start vehicle normally by shorting positive to solenoid on starter. I cannot seem to find ANY wiring diagram on where the wire for the ignition start runs from the actual steering wheel/inside the vehicle. 1990 year if it makes a dif. Any help is much appreciated! Thanks in advance!

The measurement from the center of the perch (the eye) to the backplate face on the axle (not the disk brake shield [i did a disk brake conversion]) is 6.25 inches on the left side and 6.25 inches on the right side.

They are 6.25 inches from the base plate to the perch eye. Exactly the same spacing as the D35. The Dana 35 uses 1-3/4" brakes, the Chryco 8-1/4 uses 2-1/2" brakes ... but the wheel-mating-surface to wheel-mating-surface dimension is the same. That means the 8-1/4" backing plates are farther inboard than those on the D35. If you measure the center-to-center distance of your perches, I'll bet it isn't the same on the "new" axle as on the old D35. Just took measurements. Dana 35 is exactly 42" spacings. 21" to center on each side from perch mount eye. Chrysler 8.25 is exactly 42". 21" to center on each side from perch mount eye. My measurements are identical.. I'd have to guess if I put the D35 back in, it would also be off by an inch.

Everything I saw showed the swap was identical. I'll go measure when I get a min. They're already welded in and completely bolted up. :(

They are 6.25 inches from the base plate to the perch eye. Exactly the same spacing as the D35.

Measured perch mounts from the center spring retaining hole eye to the backplate for the brakes on the axle.

Here are pics of the driver's side and passengers side: Driver's Side looking back: Passenger's Side looking back:

Hello, I just finished swapping a 1999 Chrysler 8.25 from an XJ into my Comanche rear. I cut off the shock mounts and perches. Welded the perches in exactly the same spacing as the Dana 35 that was removed (6.25 in eye-to-eye). The driveline is centered, but when checking the spacing on either side of the vehicle, the tire sticks out 1 inch further past the frame on the drivers side. Everything is torqued to spec.. Not sure what to do? Can I run a 1 inch spacer on the passenger side? Is this a common issue? I've read about some Cherokees having this issue from the factory.

Hello, I have a 1990 Renix with a mechanical speedometer cable. I'm looking for the longer, 4x4, cable for my 4WD conversion. Looks like the 2wd cable is a hair too short. :(

I was able to rig up some grade 8 bolts from lowes with some nuts screwed on and it's working fine for the moment. Although, I haven't driven it yet..

I actually was inspired by yours.. :D It was an all day trip to get it, but I think it's worth it in the long run. I'll be cutting the outer legs a bit and resizing it to fit the wheel wells. On an unrelated note, it looks like my transfer case is missing a stud... Those @#$%ers seem to be IMPOSSIBLE to find.. If anyone has a replacement solution, it would be appreciated.

Got a ton done this past weekend. Here is the SYE installation album I've hosted on Imgur. This is for the 1999 XJ NP231 transfer case that will be going into the Comanche! http://imgur.com/a/POy8J

No love for Zone????

This is pretty easy to fix with a few basic tools. You'll need some gear marking compound, locktite, a 25 dollar dial indicator, and several half inch extensions and a socket nut that will fit into the adjuster hole. Here's the extension tool I made, along with the dial indicator:

Yep, it's definitely offset.. I've got an 8.8 under my XJ. Each shaft is a different length.. Not by much, but enough to throw you off.

Thanks, everyone! So I took a little road trip (271 mile round trip) to pick this bad boy up... BEHOLD! Light bar off of an '88 Dodge Power RAM something or other.. It comes with two large rectuangular lights and front lights too. Really nice kit. It's about 2 inches too short to clear the top, so I'll be making spacers to go underneath it.

What are you trying to do with the 4x2 trans? I'm envious that you have space for a donor and can find one. Also envious of the trailer.. :D

Time for extreme rust removal, part 3. Got to work on the D30 some more. Every single component was completely shot. I had to remove and replace all of it. Here's some rust removal prep. I didn't get many pictures during the process as I kept my phone far away from the cloud. Here's after the 3+ hours of grinding with wire brushes on drills. Don't worry, I had eye protection on too: Got the axle about as good as it was going to get, washed it with degreaser, dried it, and began the painting process. I used some rust stopper/resistor/primer/paint from advanced auto. Seems to be pretty decent quality. NEXT DAY: INTERMISSION! You know when your radiator EXPLODES as soon as you park at work and you have to buy a new one at lunch and install it before you drive it home? Only took a few hours with surprise downpours. You can actually see where the lower hose mount on the radiator cracked around the entire length. Looks like someone had tried to weld it previously and it had enough.. The timing on this component fail is remarkable.. The SECOND I parked.. BACK TO AXLE: I pressed out the ball joints and removed the knuckle. Installed new spicer ball joints.. Driver's side joint hole was too big and just fell into the socket.. I found a really neat way to shim it using some copper audio power wire. Basically, just took some (not as much as shown) and was able to shim the ball joint with it and press it in. SECOND INTERMISSION: Went to get some chinese food and found a long lost brother! Some 2WD Offroading! Lots of work done the following day! Got the ball joints finished, knuckles painted and dried from the day before, ujoints done in the shafts, shafts painted, brakes installed with new rotors and dust shields: Oh, and here's my workspace for this in the background! First U-joint was nice and easy.... Broke the second one and had to get a different, non-spicer, u-joint.. :( My OCD is through the roof.. Cleaned and painted shafts with u-joints installed! Outside part of the shafts was pretty rusted and needed a ton of grinding. EDIT: Here is a side by side of the axle, before and after: