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spike36

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Everything posted by spike36

  1. I put together these Comanche keychains. They're cut from stainless steel and measure about 3" x 1-1/4". I've got my keys for scale in one of the photos. The J has the little indent so it can open beer bottles too. Prices: $20CAD/ea within Canada, includes shipping via letter mail. $15CAD/ea for any more added to the order. $25USD/ea to USA, includes shipping via standard parcel mail. Tariffs make it so I can't really offer a volume discount.
  2. Texasjack can you post a pic of your fix? I have a broken brake release that I need to fix. The little ball on the tip was hanging on by a few strands and finally snapped. I was thinking about drilling and tapping the end with something small like a #4 or #6 and drill a through hole in the bolt head and run safety wire from the bolt to the release lever.
  3. New hitch is in, can't wait to install it this weekend! The build quality is amazing! Thanks Krusty!
  4. I'm sold, thanks for the help!
  5. It says that it's unrated, but I'm guessing he based his hitch off the class 3 hitch right? I couldn't find any info in the thread. Have you had any success towing with it? I plan on having this truck be my workhorse so I'd need it to be able to pull a 3000 lb trailer reliably.
  6. Well, I don't know what the difference is between my '90 LB and mkbruin's '88 LB, but I just bought the Reese 37042 and there's no way it's going to bolt on (reference earlier posts on pg 1, this thread). Rails on the truck are around 45" apart, and the only way to extend the 37042 that far (very last mounting holes on center piece) is to use the extra side brackets, turned out, as in "side bracket location 4" (pg 3, installation manual) and bolt it to the underside of the rail. None of the holes line up with the one and only hole with a welded-on nut and the other hole, which doesn't have any threads, meaning I'd have to drill, but would have to do so right next to the unthreaded hole (weak) and I'd still only have two bolts holding the whole thing up. Could drill one more hole in the middle, maybe, but that's still two strong points and one weak one, and that last hole on the bracket definitely sits well off and behind the frame rail. Like I said, I don't know what gives, but I'm a little bummed. Price is down to $114 at Wally World, if anyone else wants to try. I'm heading back to town to get my money back. It looks like this thread is dead but I'm hoping you all can help me out. I've got a '90 LB and I need to get a hitch since the bumper is banged up (PO must have backed into a tree or something). Can anybody comment on how the Reese 37042 or 37152 fit on the '90 LB. The 37042 is $260 and the 37152 is $190 up in Canada so I'm hoping one or the other will fit since they're both available. I don't mind drilling a few holes to make them work as long as I'm not compromising any structural integrity.
  7. There wasn't enough room between the frame and the sheet metal above it to put a nutsert in so what I did was put a bolt through the hole with threads pointed up and put a nut on to clamp the sheet metal down. I used a double nut at the tip to keep the bolt from turning since I couldn't get a wrench underneath. Just reassembled the interior and it seems to be working. Here's hoping I don't need to verify in a crash :P
  8. Awesome idea!! I'll pop the new bolt in tomorrow then!
  9. Hey everyone, I pulled the carpet out of my MJ so I could find out what the rust situation was on the floor pans. When I was getting the bench out, the front left nut on the driver's side was seized and was just spinning the bolt so I was able to pry it out. Now I'm left with a hole and trying to figure out how I'll secure the bench down again. I want to put the carpet back in so this fix can't require me to fit a wrench in the little hole to hold the bolt down as I spin the nut off, unless I make carpet modifications to do so. The bolt that was in there before looked like a stud with a tight fitting washer on it that secured it to the floor and must have kept the stud from spinning. Have any of you had this happen to you and how did you fix it? I'm considering finding an actual stud and pressing it into place. Spike
  10. I ended up buying a Comanche for pretty cheap. My first one so I had no idea what I was getting into. I hauled it home and found out it was a 90 MJ Metric Ton, dana 44, working 4x4 and all. The PO had it sitting in his back yard for 6 years and wanted it to go to a good home. Hopefully I can deliver. It needs work but mechanically it's sound. Fired right up after doing an oil change and the frame is rust free. SCORE!! Other than a minor electrical issue and the engine liking to overheat, I've driven this truck around and it's a solid ride. This weekend I'm going to fix the remaining issues and hopefully turn it into my daily. I've got some pictures of when it was sitting at the PO's house and how the rear looks now with a not-so-rusty tailgate. I'm starting to like the blue!
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