JACKED88

OK, took the XJ out for another test drive, Got on the freeway, went down several exits, made a u-turn and repeated that back and forth about 10 times. Each time I'd make the u-turn I'd be sure to come to a complete stop to insure it was downshifting into first. 1-2 shift seems fine. 2-3 shift seems fine. Beyond that its hard to tell what its doing. I do git one more shift and or drop in rpm's but I can't tell if its converter lock or if its goiing into 4th gear. Thats the last shift or drop in rpm's I git. Instead of running the gears up to highway speeds I decided to see how it would shift in 4x4 low. Got on a straight pc of road and slowly excellerated. Naturally the shifts come pretty quickly in 4x4 low but I did git 3 shifts. (1-2, 2-3, 3-4) The 3-4 shift comes immediately after the 2-3 shift. When I say immediately I mean it only stays in 3rd for about a second before it shifts into 4th. Tried it several times excellerating at different rates. Each time had about the same results. Knowing I was only getting up to about 25 mph I'm assuming I never reached enough speed to achieve converter lock since its not supposed to lock till you reach 50+ mph. Considering this thing sat in tha p/o's back yard and wasnt driven on tha streets for about 10 years, there's no telling how long it been since its last trans service. I figure what tha hell. Doing a service on it now, it'll do one of three things. Make it shift better. Stay tha same. Or start slipping. As it is I'm not sure if I wanna put it in my truck. My only other option is to buy a j/y trans that I'll know nothing about. Although a j/y trans will have at least a 30 day warranty. :hmm: Maybe I aughta git tha motor running right before I make my decision. Trans will probably act different once its running properly. Still think it has a collapsed lifter or a stuck valve. Gonna pull the valve cover and find out which it is. Hopefully its just a stuck valve and I can free it with a few quick taps of a hammer.

I can tell you from experience that some of these kids working in tire shops don't know how to use the equipment to properly balance a tire. First time mine were balanced they came out of tha shop with damn near a pound of weights wrapped a quarter of tha way around my wheels. Not exceptable!!! Made um do um again but this time they come out with less than 3 ounces. Tha kid was using the wrong boss to align tha wheels on tha machine making um run out of round.

Balance, Balance, Balance!!! don't just assume its fine. Unless you've already had um checked/rebalanced then git it done.

Apparently I've been misinformed on how O/D and the converter actually work. I won't go into how I thought it worked :hmm: but will tell you I really appreciate your explanation and setting me straight. :thumbsup: I didnt git a chance to test drive tha XJ today due to taking my truck up to tha shop where my son works. We finally got tha front end adjusted properly and did tha front end alignment. Using an angle finder on top of the upper ball joint as suggested, I set it at 5*. I was shootin for 6 but figured by tha time everything settles I'll likely gain a degree or so. I'll check it again in a couple of days. We rebalanced all tha tires too. What a difference everything we did today made. I can actually drive down tha highway without being in fear of tha dreaded death wobble or having little old ladies passing me up. :rotf: All tha front end need now is some longer shocks. I think tha ones that came on tha truck when I bought it were intended for a 3-4 inch lift. I have 6.5" lift. Going to tha lake tomorrow so I'll git back on tha XJ trans issue next week. Till then, Thanks for yalls help!!! BTW .... In the end all I'm trying to figure out about this XJ's trans and t/c is if their working well enough to be worth tha trouble of installing them into my MJ. I can't afford a rebuild tight now so If their not I'll sell the XJ as is and buy another trans and t/c for it.

Pretty sure mine does. Starting out in "3" I git 3 shifts. 1-2, 2-3, and I presume 3-4. Then if I shift up into "D"/OD it shifts again. The 3-4 shift happens almost immediately after the 2-3 shift. Under normal excelleration Its like; 1...........2...............3..4.................. Starting out in 3, you do get three shifts: 1-2, 2-3, then the torque converter locking. Then if you shift into D, it shifts 3-4 with the torque converter already locked. If thats true then your saying there's no way to tow anything down the highway without the converter being locked. So what about all auto manufacturers warning you not to tow with the converter locked? Claiming it'll build up to much heat and burn up tha trans due to tha lack of fluid circulation through the locked converter.

Pretty sure mine does. Starting out in "3" I git 3 shifts. 1-2, 2-3, and I presume 3-4. Then if I shift up into "D"/OD it shifts again. The 3-4 shift happens almost immediately after the 2-3 shift. Under normal excelleration Its like; 1...........2...............3..4.................. I've never run it hard enough in 1st gear to see if it'll shift at 4500+ or not. Actually I take that back. One day while in some mud with pretty much slick tires, I know I had the engine running over 4500 rpm's just to keep moving a little. Even at that it never shifted into 2nd. I'm gonna go on test ride in a few minutes. I'll try to make it shift in as many different ways as I can.

OK, I'm sure most of you know what an older AW4 shifter bezel looks like but just in case here's a pic of one. Would somebody please explain how tha shift pattern is supposed to work on this thing? I mean we have a 4 speed transmission plus O/D converter lockup yet only 3 possible shift positions. (aughta have 5 / 1,2,3,4,O/D) From what I can tell, we have no control over 2nd and 3rd gears. "1-2" position only gives us 1st gear and no ability to select between tha two. "3" position gives us 3rd and 4th yet again no ability to select between tha two and O/D position gives us converter lock up. What tha hell were they thinkin when they came up with this sh-t???

OK, but I don't get that converter locking fifth gear feel. While excellerating and watching the tachometer I only git a drop in rpm when it shifts from 1-2, 2-3 and 3-? Its either not shifting into 4th or the converter isnt locking.

OUCH!!! Gotta admit you picked a goodun, :drool: But DAMN!!! $$$$.00 Gittin into 4 digits for a set of tires is definitely out of my "wifes" price range. :thwak: :no: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: I'm sure you'll enjoy um for many miles to come.

I bleed mine by removing the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing. Then start the engine with a water hose stuck in the loose upper hose end. (water hose turned on about half) Once the thermostat opens and starts pumping water out of the therm housing let it run till tha thermostat closes again. Quickly stick tha hose back on the housing and turn off tha motor. (easier with two people) Then tighten tha hose clamp and top off tha bottle. Although you end up with water everywhere, it does tha trick.

Buy 3 git one free only applies if you let them mount and balance um plus I think they want you to buy a front end alignment. All said and done you can buy 4 tires with road hazard through their commercial sales for about tha same $$$ if not a little less. If you talk to tha commercial sales guy right he might be able to put um on somebodies business account so you don't have to pay any taxes. Thats what they did for me. Even if these tires wear kinda fast I still think you can git as many if not more miles out of two sets of these verses 1 set of high dollar tires. As for tha two ply side wall, I don't think for my style of offroading it'll be a problem. No, their probably not tha best choice for rock crawling or hard offroading but on my daily driver their doing just fine.

Update on this XJ Limited I bought to for parts or for repair. Finally got around to replacing tha fuel pump and gittin it running. It either has a stuck valve or collapsed lifter. Makes quite a bit of top end noise, doesnt idle right and doent have much git up and go down tha road. Tha trans, (in which is what I mostly wanted out of it) does work however its either not going into 4th or overdrive. I only git 3 shifts. 1-2 / 2-3 / 3-? With tha shifter in O/D position, when I down shift to "3" position, it does downshift however I'm not sure if its downshifting out of O/D or 4th gear. I think O/D. ????? If its going into O/D then I never feel a 4th gear shift. Gonna do a service on it and driving it around some more. Tha way I see it it'll go one of three ways. (no change at all .... helps tha shifting and works fine ..... or it'll start slipping having not had the slightly burnt smelling fluid changed before now. While tha pan is off I'll pull tha valve body and check for any stuck valves. Might even do a couple of shift improvements tricks while I'm at it.

:agree: So far I love my 285/75/16 Dakota MT's. Awesome tire for tha money. I paid $550 out tha door including road hazard and had my son mount um at tha dealership he works at. Tha way I see it I can buy two sets of um for less than 1 set of those high dollar name brand tires. Plus I git to have that new tire feeling twice and still not have spent $1200 bucks. $1200-$1500 bucks for a set of tires is :nuts: They have a pretty nice lookin A/T too. I came close to buying some instead of the M/T's but wanted something more aggressive. Again, two sets for less than tha price of one ....... its a no brainer for me.

We didnt exactly hammer on tha tank but my son did lay on tha ground and kick it a few times. I'll try it again using a rubber mallet. I'd hate to just start throwin money at it but at this point I'm thinkin tha hell with it and go ahead and order a pump off ebay. We're only talkin $33 bucks. But do you really want to cheap out on an item in which you might have to drop the tank again if it fails? Rob L. :hmm: No!!! But then who's to say one from tha local auto parts store that cost 4 times as much ($121) will be any better? :dunno: Now days their all comin from across an ocean with who ever's name on um. I know what your saying and thanks for pointing that out. But when your as broke as my son is ya gotta do what ya gotta do. I did find an AC Delco for about $65 shipped. Maybe we'll go with that one instead of some no name. $65 is stll better than $120+. Oh, and that $120+ doesnt include a new screen. The AC Delco for $65 does. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACDelco- ... ccessories

We didnt exactly hammer on tha tank but my son did lay on tha ground and kick it a few times. I'll try it again using a rubber mallet. I'd hate to just start throwin money at it but at this point I'm thinkin tha hell with it and go ahead and order a pump off ebay. We're only talkin $33 bucks.

We hooked up tha scanner today but it didnt read any codes. Checked to make sure all the injectors were firing and they are. Checked to see if there was exhaust coming out of the tail pipe. It seems to be flowing normally. (compared it to both my MJ's 4.0 and my other sons XJ's 4.0) How can we do an open line test on an erratic problem? Won't we need to do the test while its not running right? I mean what good would it do to test it while it is running right? Take today for example. Although it took some cranking we started the engine and drove around tha block for about 10 minutes before it started bogging, idling rough and finally dying. Limped it back to tha house and checked for codes again. Notta. After we scratched our heads for a few minutes we decided to start the engine again. Cranked up and ran fine for several minutes before it started idling rough and bogging again. We could do an open line test for volume right out of the tank while we're exchanging that defective filter/regulator but again since the prob is erratic how will we know which "mode" tha pump is in at tha time? (running right mode or bogging mode) Hope that makes since. 87Warrior .... Thanks for tha TB tip. Even if that turns out not to be tha problem it couldnt hurt to clean it. I won't be tha one doin tha cleaning anyway. :chillin:

:agree: I'm thinkin thats some kind of fuel filter and or water separator. Cool find. If you don't figure out anything to do with it, I'm sure some antique car collectors would like to have/buy it.

I'll definitely check it. THANKS!!! I'll be sure to check tha sensor too. I think we had one left over from doing his engine swap several months ago. Sorry but I'm not sure what your talking about. Please explain. To be honest we havent pulled tha plugs. They were replaced about 3 months ago so we didnt think they'd have anything to do with this particular problem. Apparently the fuel filter is also a pressure regulator. We didnt check the pressure on the old filter/reg before replacing it. At tha time I though his problem sounded like an all too common clogged filter so we replaced it. Wrong!!! Still runs tha same. Although I agree the pressure is too high I don't think thats tha problem. We'll exchange whats apparently a defective filter/reg for another one and see if that solves tha high pressure issue. Talked to my son with tha scanner and he's gonna bring it home tomorrow. We'll hook it up and go for a drive around tha block and see if it reads any failed sensors or anything else thats malfunctioning. Thanks for all yalls help. Hopefully by this time tomorrow I'll have some good news. Meanwhile, let me know if you think of anything else. Robert

Thanks for tha help. Can't say I've checked the exhaust but I will. One of my other sons has a scanner and he's supposed to bring it home from work within tha next couple of days. Hopefully it'll have some codes stored that'll tell us what its doing. (or not doing) :dunno:

My sons 99 4.0 4x4 WJ has a bogging problem. When he starts it it'll idle and run fine for about a block or so and then start bogging out and running rough at idle. If he turns it off and waits a few minutes sometimes it will and sometimes it won't idle and run right for another block or so. We've replaced tha fuel filter/pressure regulator and checked tha fuel pressure at tha rail. His pressure is higher than what they say its supposed to be at about 65 psi. We've checked his coil packs to be sure they didnt have any corrosion and were on properly. Also checked the air filter and inlet for any blockage. No service engine lights come on when its running bad so no, we havent run it for codes. I don't really think its a hot or cold issue since it starts bogging within a block or two of cold starting the engine. Hot or cold once you get it started again it'll run about the same distance each time before it bogs and won't idle again. The problem seems to have a mind of its own. At no time will it run for any more tha a few blocks but when it come to restarting it, its 50/50 on how its runs. Here tha routine; Cold start --- runs OK for a couple of blocks and then starts bogging and won't idle. Dies. Try to restart --- runs rough and will not excelerate. Dies. Let sit for 5-10 minutes and restart --- about 50% of tha time this works however it'll start bogging again within a couple of blocks. The other 50% of tha time you have to let it sit longer. Just to make things more confusing --- Sometimes when you restart it and its running rough, if you turn it off and restart it again it'll run right. (but only for a couple of more blocks) We'd appreciate any suggestions on what may be causing his problem.

She came pretty close to buying this 02 4.7 SelectTrac Laredo. It has all tha bells and whistles including an ele sunroof except no leather. :shake: (Who buys a vehicle with every optoin available but with cloth seats???) We have a pretty good hook-up at an upholstery shop so its cloth seats arent really a deal killer. Got um down to $5900 for it. Thats not bad but not great either. http://www.nexcarauto.com/inventory.php We're supposed to go look at this one today. http://houston.craigslist.org/ctd/1779389662.html "no need to negotiate" my @$$. Although thats not a bad retail price its a little over what we wanna pay for an 02. I'm thinkin more like $6200-$6400 tops.

:agree: Exactly. I was seduced by the then-new Quadra-Drive system. That was also a disaster, and Chrysler changed over to a completely different system (also called Quadra-Drive) after two years (three,maybe?). To repeat: DO NOT BUY A 1999 WJ WITH THE 4.7 So is that completely different system what their now calling Quadra-Drive II? If so, how is it any better than tha first? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_four_ ... ve_systems I don't think I'm gonna let her buy a Quadra-Drive. Tha way I see it it's just that much more $#!& that she doesnt need to break down on her. Again all she needs is 2x4. (although if we find a nice SelectTrac we won't turn it down)

Thanks for yalls replies on tha 4.7 She wants a WJ but it doesnt have to have a 4.7 in it. Problem is most of the Limited models we've looked at all had 4.7's in um. In fact, I'm having a hard time remembering one that didnt. The opposite seems to be true in the Laredo's. I can't remember seeing a Laredo with a 4.7 They all had 4.0's. (she doesnt want a Laredo) Now that she has a baby and car seat to deal with she wants/needs a dependable 4 door SUV. For whatever reason her and her husband have their minds set on a 99-04 WJ. don't care much for tha changes they made in tha 05's and up. That and they can't afford one anyway. We'll do as suggested and stay away from tha 99 model. I'll try to find her a clean 02-04. What this about??? "I'm more worried about 42RFE trans in it..." Whats wrong with um? While we're at it ...... QuadraTrac/Drive II ........ OK or stay away???

Best place to start is to ask if their worth a crap??? Been out lookin for a 99 or newer Grand Cherokee for my daughter. (an 02-03 is about the newest she can afford) Anyway, we've come across several with the 4.7 engines. Out of probably 5 we saw at least 3 of those ran like crap. Rough idle, throttle hesitation and just not tha git up and go I'd expect out of a v-8. One 4x4 we drove that did idle and responded pretty well to throttle still didnt seem to have much git up and go. Another 4x4 we drove ran really good having both great response and exceleration. Are there any known common problems these engines are prone to? Most of what we've seen have in the neighborhood of 80-100k miles . Not gonna buy anything with more than that and would prefer less like a couple we saw in the 70k mile range. We're looking for a Limited model having the exterior colors matched instead of ugly faded out gray plastics like on a Larado. Two or four wheel drive doesnt really matter so long as it's not a full time QuadraTrac/Drive. She doesnt need 4x4 but if we find a nice SelectTrac we won't pass it up. In fact, we're looking real hard at an 02 with a 4.7 and SelectTrac. I'm not new to tha used car game nore am I new to Cherokee's with 4.0's but any advise on what to watch out for on the 4.7 would be appreciated.

You sure you have a 242? A 242 should have 5 selectable positions including neutral. Other t/c's jeep used have 4 including neutral.