wildman4x4

The other reason I was always told for the double cardan joint is because then you can run the transfer case and pinion at different angles. You have to set the output angle and pinion angle have to be the same with a single joint shaft. But if you have a double cardan joint the transfer case doesn't have to be tilted downward pointing at the pinion. Or do I have all my driveshaft knowledge wrong?

Nice build so keep it going as you are giving me ideas for my daughters rig. I'd also like to have one of those Scout's in your pictures. I've always had a thing for the older models of the Scout's.

Sorry I know someone will tell me to search. My daughters MJ has a bench seat in it right now. As we all know finding stock bucket seat brackets are like pulling hens teeth. Will the XJ brackets work in the MJ? If not are there any write-ups on how to modify them to work or some other brackets that can be used that can be made to fit? Her truck is an 89 if that matters. I'm going to start picking up parts for her truck so once spring gets here we can work on it and have it ready for when she gets her permit. I've already got a high pinion axle for the truck. Plans are to get Tru Trac lockers front and rear, 4.88 gears, swap in a AX-15 tranny, SYE to transfer case and of course a new clutch when I do the tranny. Truck already had an 8.8 rear axle so I'm good there.

So because they are beefier I don't need the reinforcement brackets?

I had been looking for a deal on some new front control arms for my daughters truck. Well one day on FB I ran across a guy who had just put the Rough Country long arm upgrade on his XJ. So he was selling his Rubicon Express short arms plus a track bar. But he didn't have a price was looking for offers. I waited a few days to see if anyone else jumped on them and when no one else did I offered him $300 for everything. He came back with $350 for all of it plus he would throw in Rubicon Express drop brackets missing the spacers and bolts. So I said yes. So I got upper and lower short arms adjustable plus the heavy duty track bar. I have to buy the frame side bracket. And I have the Rubicon Express drop brackets plus the reinforcement brackets(Not sure what they are called) all for $350. These are the better arms with rebuildable joints and are adjustable. Plus the heavy duty track bar. So I saved about half the cost for new parts maybe a little more. Going to contact RE soon about the missing parts and hopefully I can get the parts from them. Then I can fix the suspension on her truck. I got a pair of RE3715 arms I got a pair of RE3780 arms I got a track bar RE1660 Control Arm Drop Bracket RE9900 missing the spacers & bolts. Bracket kit RE9905 Does anyone know why you can't use the RE9905 Brace Kit on a Comanche? This is for the RE9900 Control Arm Drop Bracket kit I haven't crawled under the truck to see why it won't work yet so I thought I would ask and see if anyone knew. Thanks

You mentioned how lucky the Toy guys are. There is a write-up on pirate about how to adapt a Toy t-case to AX-15 because they are the same as a (something)-151 transmission from Toyota. Just another idea for you.

This is the 4 link kit I have been looking at from Rusty's. http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-suspension/jeep-suspension-lift-kits/xj-cherokee-84-01-jeep-suspension-lift-kits/rusty-s-xj-competition-4-link-suspension-system.html And then here is a kit from Synergy that is awesome but a little more than what I want to spend. If I was building the truck into a total all out wheeling/rock rig I would get this kit. http://www.polyperformance.com/Synergy-Jeep-XJ-4-Link-Long-Travel-System

I'm running 5 on 5.5 on my TJ. Rear axle is a Tera Low CRD HP60 and is 60" wms. That was also the other reason I went to 61.5" width on my front axle. Having it waggy width makes it easier to get shafts too. Yes I totally agree with you on the Yukon hubs. I plan on trying them out and see how they hold up to my 408 engine and 38" SX tires. I am running 4.5" back spacing on my rims and have zero issues with turning and I don't have my steering stops turned out. I haven't touched them they are stock. I didn't want the size/weight of a D60 up front. I am looking at getting a new housing built with 60 outers & HP44 center and then use Jantz Engineering Jana 54 to get a stronger ring and pinion. Then run RCV axle shafts and I'll have a front axle that will run my 38/39" tires no problem. Here's my TJ. This was when I was running 35" tires. And this is with 38" tires. Playing around back when I had 35" tires.

MJDriver, Yes the older model Waggy and Cherokee's did have an offset axle to the right both front and rear. Just like older CJ models. DirtyComanche, Yes I agree there really aren't any hubs other than Yukon's that are worth a darn. I ended up just running slugs in front. I have a HP44 narrowed to Waggy width under my TJ. Why do you not like the width of Waggy axles for running larger tires? To try and keep my TJ as street legal as I could I went narrow to keep the tires under the flares somewhat. I run 38" SX tires and haven't had any issues other than one blown stock u-joint.

Look at my thread about what arms. I bought the truck like this but I have about 6"-61/2" lift on the front which I am guessing the PO did after doing the rear. If you want any measurements just ask and I'll try to get them for you. I posted a bunch of pictures of the truck when I first joined.

If I am going to go long arm lift can you guys give me what you feel is the best kit out there? Yes I know what opinions are like but I'm still asking. I have looked at 1) Rough Country 2) Rusty 3) Full Traction 4) Iron Rock 5) Synergy 6) I'm sure there are more. The order I listed them in is not how I see them in good to bad or any such thing I was just listing the companies I knew of. So I am just looking for a long arm upgrade kit since I already have the springs. I do want something with skid plates if possible and I put 4 link over radius any day. This is going to be a road driven rig that is wheeled some of the time. So it needs to have good road manners but work off-road too.

Hey all, I've been trying to fix all the little things on my truck and am about ready to attack the front suspension. So here is the deal, when the PO did the 8.8 swap and did it spring over I think he realized that he had to do something with the front end. So now I have to fix the messed up lift that he did. I have 4.5" springs and 2" spacers right now under the front. The bad part is that the OP just left the stock arms under it. So I am wanting to get rid of the stock arms of course and either do a short arm lift or a long arm lift. So help me out here with your suggestions. I'm trying to do this on some what of a budget. That gives you an idea what I'm dealing with.

I don't know why folks are trying to talk you out of using a 8.8 as they are great axles for this swap. If you look around you can find a 8.8 that has 4.10 gears already, most times has a limited slip in it and has disc brakes. A 8.8 is stronger than a D44 and about the only short coming on the 8.8 is that the tubes need to be welded to the center section as they can spin on you under heavy torque. And for some people the other short coming is that a 8.8 is a "C" clip axle like the D35. There is a kit offered to eliminate the "C" clips. But at least you would have 4.10 gears already in your rear axle then all you need to do is regear your D30 or find one out of a 4cyl TJ as it comes with 4.10 gears. As said your D30 is good up to 35" tires and with the 32" tires you're running now you'd be fine for light to medium wheeling with stock shafts and joints. If you were to go to 35" tires you would want to get cromo shafts, 297 joints, a full case locker and truss the axle. I have seen many people run 37" tires on a D30 before for many years with little to no problems. Part of how long it is before you break parts is how you wheel. If you have a heavy foot then you will break more parts but if you drive smart you can wheel for a long time with no problems.

Because of the funky Rough Country bumper the reservoir blimp is up on the wheel well now. I know for sure the line going into the blimp is not leaking. No I do not hear a vacuum leak under the dash any where. I guess I'll have to get my vacuum tester out and test all the diaphragms to make sure they all work and all the doors work. I'll keep everyone posted on what I come up with.

So I am working on the daughters manche and have an issue that has me going huh? I fixed the aftermarket stereo not working right. The PO had the constant 12V wire wired to switched power also so you'd lose all your settings every time it was turned off. So now I am on to fixing the HVAC. I checked the vacuum line coming into the cabin and it has vacuum but I only get air out of the defrost. Doesn't matter what position it is in it still only blows out defrost. So where do I go from here? Looking for any advice.

I'd love to have this but I know they will never offer it. Now this is it.......................I'll take it with a diesel engine please. Or if they would offer it 6.2 Hemi, D60's front & rear and I'd take it. I love the look of a M715 and really like the crew cab.

If my truck was a color that I could find easy then I would. Plus I need both doors and I don't want to have to try and paint the doors to match.

Oops, my bad the regulators are $110 each. I tried searching as many ways as I could but manual window regulators just seem to be hard to find. You can buy power regulators for $60-90 but no manual. I guess I'm just going to spring for the ones from Mopar Parts Overstock.

I did a search for MJ and XJ manual window regulators and the only ones I found were $200+ each. Now I know I could just find some Cherokee doors but most of them have the same problem as I do. I roll my window down past about the 50% mark and then the window won't roll back up. Something inside the regulator is stripped out. Please tell me I can get new regulators for less than $200. Buying two of them is just crazy at that price. Thanks for your help.

Ok so then I guess the next question would be is it even worth it to go thru all the trouble to try and change the wiring and such? I know I can just install the HO head and then put all the stock equipment back on it. Is that worth doing?

Hi all, Well since the weather is warming up I can start thinking about working on the Comanche finally. I have a 92 4.0 HO head with the wiring harness and computer that I'd like to swap onto my 89 4.0 engine. I know the head will just bolt on but can I just use the stock wiring and just plug the 92 computer into it? The only thing I don't have anymore is the exhaust manifold as we used it on my sons Cherokee. So I plan on getting a good aftermarket header for it. What kind of performance gains would I get by adding the head? Thanks for any help.

Yes that new Lincoln is a great welder and I'm glad I bought it. I do wish it had A/C tig but I need to learn how to use the D/C side first. Once I get good at that I'll look at getting a A/C D/C machine.

Rear driveline, got to love the welds on it too. Image Not Found Front driveline Peugot tranny I think Going to HATE it when it comes time to remove this exhaust. Thank goodness for a plasma cutter. My other toys. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found New welder, welding cart and plasma cutter. Image Not Found

Took these pictures for you. Image Not Found Passenger side Image Not Found Drivers side

Pete, Who makes drop brackets for the Comanche? The only ones I have found so far that say they are for our trucks is from Rocky Road Outfitters. Well I finally got the truck off the trailer today. Had planned on doing it yesterday but we had a major snow storm come thru and it was just too nasty out. After I unloaded it off the trailer I got my little girl (she is 13 so not so little) to come out to the truck for a drive. I gave her her first lesson on driving a clutch. We stalled a few times but she was getting how to let the clutch out and not stall the truck by the time we got back to the house.