Francesco

I know they will fix it all, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't making a stupid mistake!! Thanks everyone, they said they will be calling me today.

To all who for some reason hate my shackle, Deaver springs require a longer shackle because of the amount of arch in most packs. With the stock shackle, it would invert on flex.

These were custom made Deaver Springs, specially made for my Comanche for a 1 inch lift. Not an off the shelf part.

My shackles give me a 2" lift, and my springs give me a 8 right now, after measuring. there is no possible way a 3" lift sits like this. I think I was given incorrect springs. A spring would settle an inch or so not seven!!! The leaves at RIDE height are longer than they should be at FULL droop, there is definitely an issue here.

Well my front is 3" with coils, and it had a slight take still, so it seems that should be 3" roughly. I don't think stock leaves sagged seven inches. This is a bit extreme. I can't even bolt on my shocks. This is sitting at least 5" too high before settling I'd think. You don't get driveline vibes at 3", and shocks should be able to bolt in.

So it's normal for ONE inch lift springs to give you SEVEN inches of lift?? I'm not running revolver shackles, just an extended shackle. I can't run stock shackles with deavers, I need a longer one and these work for my needs.

What is wrong about the shackles? I am running SUA. with my stock leafs these shackles fave me no problems what so ever. These springs were meant to give me a 1" lift, so if you imagine them flattening and moving up 7 inches, my shackle angle would be vastly improved. At this height, this would be farther than my shocks would allow the suspension to move down, and thus a poor shackle angle

Also, I realize my shackle angle is almost vertical, but remember that this is what seven inches of down travel would make my shackle angle look like if I were at the correct height, not what it should look like at ride height.

Hello all, I ordered some deavers a few months ago, ten pack with military wrap, and a whole inch of lift. Now that I finally picked them up, and put them in, I'm sitting on what looks like a ten inch lift (roughly two inches from shackles). I will include pictures. The suspension is not tightened down at all, and flexes just fine when i jump on it, so I don't feel like it is binding at all. Its so high to the point where I can't even bolt my shocks down. Is it really going to settle seven inches back to my ride height of about 3 inches? Thanks, Francesco

This is a bit related, but there's a man selling multiple diesel engines, and a bunch of odds and ends all new disassembled near me for 1400$. May be worth getting as a spare parts collection if you end up picking this up. PM me if you do.

I believe if the steering is not loose or worn, wandering is a symptom of too little toe in.

That would work except the whole point of this upgrade was broken stock parts(too old, just extremely worn)

Picking up new parts tomorrow. Anything before then?

What do you mean by turbulence? I can see fluid pumping if that's what you mean, but when I try and crank it, I'm struggling, but I do not hear the pump making any noises whatsoever. Even at full lock if I pull on it, nothing, which makes me assume bad pump. But I also find it very difficult to steer even when moving, when power steering isn't doing as much, which makes me think bad box?

Hey guys, I have a 1990 MJ 4x4, with a durango box and WJ pump swap, however it's not working. I've been through 2 boxes and 3 pumps, and I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, or if I just keep getting bad reman parts. I have a reman Napa pump and box, and each time I follow the bleeding procedure (jack up, turn wheels side to side a million times until fluid doesn't drop, then start car for a second, add fluid, repeat), i end up WITHOUT power steering?? Once bled, I do see the pump pumping fluid, but after about a half turn in each direction, I have no power steering. What's weird to me is it does NOT get easier to steer when moving, when merging on the freeway, it still takes both hands to turn. I will highlight my symptoms in order to make the read easier: Highlight: No P/S steering after half turn in each direction - car drives the same with no pump Steering does NOT get easier when moving, like typical manual steering New lines new pump new box No air bubbles in fluid, can see fluid pumping at idle slowly does NOT get easier when revving motor no leaks anywhere, new o rings each time, etc. In order to make things easier, this is the procedure I followed EXACTLY in order to install new WJ pump: http://www.bsfab.net/?p=152 Someone save me, I miss driving my Jeep!!! Thanks, Francesco

I know when I did my 703 Injector Swap on my '90, it ran like complete @$$, whenever I would give it gas, it would stumble, etc. Ended up being the tube that everyone is talking about here.

Hi everyone, First of all, thank you for all the responses. When I long arm, I plan on doing Froehlich 3 link long arm. He uses solid hex links, and he said that it can be run much lower than most LA setups because of the links being smaller, and solid, rather than tubular. I want to stay 3.5" with the long arm, with a max of 4.5", but the more I think, the more I'm against that. I want to be LCOG. Eventually I would like to go to OTK steering, but for now, I am completely content with UTK. Eventually I would like to go to the WJ setup, however that will be much in the future. For now, a 30/44 is PLENTY for what I will do/need. I will look at Doetsch shocks. Only reason I didn't look at the GC lowers is because of so many people telling me that the CA will hit the axle end at droop, so I was looking for bent ones. The GC ones are bent for wider tires, not for clearance.

Yes, I plan on staying at 3.5" of lift when I long arm. I was planning to go adjustable, but I can hardly justify spending another 50-100$ on control arms I'll be done with in a couple months, if fixed work just fine. Reason for lifting ASAP is after 200K miles, all of my steering and bushings are worn, so I can either lift now, and replace everything then, or replace everything now and stay stock, and then again a couple months down the road.

What I've read is most Dana 44s are going to need fabrication to fit, but the '07+ Rubicon Dana 44 axles are much stronger than other front Dana 44s. Good luck!

Well, its been a while and I suck at taking pictures, so I'll take some later today. Finally sourced another Dana 44 with 3.55, and began my 4wd swap. All in all it went well, and I ran into a few things I didn't expect, however I'll get into more detail later today. This is what I ended up with: Dana 30/44 3.55 Gears AX-15 Exo Slave/ NP231 Novak Cable Shifter Will be taking pictures and talking about the process. Next is my lift, which I posted here for help on some questions I had: http://comancheclub.com/topic/49415-suspension-setup-critiquing/

Hello, Planning on a 3.5" lift on my Jeep Comanche. I want to run this by others who have actually tried out these parts in the field, and know how they work. Here is what I am planning on short term (eventually want to upgrade to a long arm): SPRINGS: Metal Cloak 3.5" Dual Rate Springs LINKS: Rough Country Fixed Lowers (just useable and cheap until I can afford a long arm) TB: Synergy Track Bar Brace & Track Bar SWAY: Antirock Swaybar STEERING: JCR UTK 1-ton steering SHOCKS: Rough Country Shocks (until I can afford nicer shocks) My main question is on the track bar brace. I have not heard much about it, however I think with the unibodies a little extra bracing won't hurt. Any comments? Thanks for the help. I do have a build thread on here, but sadly I suck at taking pictures and keeping it updated. Coming soon! Just finished a 4WD conversion on my 1990 MJ, exo slave AX-15/231 with a cable shifter and a Dana 30/44.

Are you saying I should run 4.56? or 3.73?

Well, I suck at remembering to take pictures, but here's what I've done. Picked up a Dana 44 with Chromoly axle shafts, replaced the injectors with 746 EV1 injectors, new coil and o2 sensor, and getting ready to replace the axles! Here are some pictures: I will try and take more pictures, but I'll describe what's going on so far. Axles will be cleaned and painted, and all bushings will be replaced. New ball joints and u joints too. Hunting down a NP231, and an AX15(external slave), and going to get a JB SYE kit for it while it's out most likely. As of now, the axles are 3.55, but the rear is CHEWED. Found a used set I'm going to pick up this weekend, and have at doing gears myself! Eventually will be 4.10s on 33s, just didn't want to fork over the cash for new gears and a new carrier.

Hey everyone, The other day the truck started idling funky, and low. It all pointed to the IAC, so I took off the TB and IAC, and cleaned them both. Now it is idling a lot better, and I put in an order for Volvo 746 injectors, and a tune up kit(plugs cap wires rotor). Fuel pump makes a slight whine, but I don't think I need to worry just yet. Does take a while to start at cranking, either bad injector leaking, or the FPR is leaking. Not worried about either, because I'm replacing the injectors, and the FPR is part of the fuel filter(correct?) and that will get replaced soon. Took an engine de-greaser can to the old oil leak I fixed, and cleaned up the engine bay. Forgot to take pictures before, I always do that. Here are some after pictures. I'll get better as I go along. Idle is now smooth, and the response is stronger as well. Also, when I use the heater at a stop light, I get a faint smell of gas. Not sure if I get it without it? I'll have to double check. Any suggestions?

:rotf: :doh: Thanks for that one! I was excited when I found this one. May be picking up a Dana 44 (3.55 gears, for now), and a tcase/tranny (external slave) soon. Will drive as stock 4WD for a bit, and iron out all the kinks I find! Stay tuned.