86customanche

Easy for you to say, I have enough trouble just crawling under the manche, thank goodness it's lifted a few inches. Fortunately my use is solely on the property to fetch firewood and check out the multiple beaver dams, so I can survive for awhile with being limited to 4wd. Many thanks for the guidance; this group again has proven quite useful.

Progress made so far... I removed the linkage and can shift from 4L to 4H, but NOT to 2wd. I also confirmed this by lifting the rear again and wheels don't rotate and I can see both drive shafts are engaged. So the issue is within the t-case? (BTW, 15mm) Image before disconnecting linkage.

With the rear wheels lifted, and in neutral, I can only rotate the wheels about 1-2 inches. I see both drive shafts moving. I am able to get it to 4 high from 4 low, but not out of 4wd. I'll try to take a look at the transfer case later today. Thanks.

Disclaimer.... rookie mechanic, running son's Manche monthly while he is out of state. '92 4.0L 4WD. It is stuck in 4 low and I can't move the shifter to 4 high or 2WD. But it does run, so I exercise it in 4 low, shifting from first to 2nd to 3rd. Thanks.

Old topic but seems appropriate to my issue. I've been baby sitting my son's '92 while he is out of state. 4wd standard, 4.0L. I run it every 3-4 weeks for 10-15 minutes, driving on some trails in the back woods, due to it not being street legal and missing the driver's door (hinges rusted and door fell off). Anyway, 2 months ago it wouldn't start, but cranked strongly. I added 2.5 gallons and it started and ran ok. 1 month ago I ran it for a few miles. Yesterday it started but stalled after a few minutes and then would not start. Only 6 miles on the 2.5 gallons I added 2 months ago. The other gas in the tank is probably from last summer. Fuel gauge doesn't work so not sure how much exists. Tank was emptied and fuel pump and filter replaced in 2015. So how should I handle the fuel in this situation? Running it briefly every month. Use a fuel stabilizer? Fill the tank? Only add fuel when running it? Thanks for the advice.

Hello again. I've got a wire that has been disconnected for awhile, originating from engine block behind distributor. It's almost 2 feet long and ends with a dual plug. I'm not sure where it goes nor it's purpose. It originates at the arrow in the photo and is terminates with the plug that is circled. I initially noticed it while standing in front; it was hanging below the front axle. '92 MJ 4.0 The Jeep runs ok every couple of weeks for a brief outing in the woods. I'm keeping it running while the owner is out of state. Thanks for the help.

She's running again, new fuel pump and strainer and hoses inside tank. It's been an adventure, thanks CC for all the input.

Also, the fuel strainer is loose and I fear it'll fall off when I'm reinstalling the assembly. Ok to very slightly glue it on? Just a spot or two?

Thanks for the ideas. The tank was replaced a couple of years ago and I think the nipple was lost then, and never existed in the current tank. I've not found a replacement so am wondering if my hose idea is ok or should I just reinstall the assembly without the nipple.

I'm getting ready to install a new fuel pump, Bosch, into my '92. The assembly is missing the nipple on the bottom of the fuel return line. Would it be ok to install a piece of fuel hose on the return line? See picture with piece of fuel hose next to line. What is the purpose of the nipple? For resting on the bottom of the tank, reduce vibration and noise? Thanks. (especially to Knucklehead97 for tips on installation) http://comancheclub.com/topic/45860-bosch-aftermarket-fuel-pump-installation/

I've got a Bosch pump now and am getting ready to install, with a new fuel strainer as well. The strainer is a little loose on the bottom of the pump and I'm afraid it's going to fall off while installing the assembly. Couple of questions: Ok to glue with a drop or so to keep the strainer in place? Does the strainer rest on the bottom of the tank, so once there it should stay in place? Thanks.

Does the fuel screen/strainer on the bottom of the pump rest on the bottom the tank? My new strainer on my new pump, yet to be installed, is not a snug fit. I worry it'll fall off, but shouldn't be an issue if it rests on the bottom. Can I put a touch of glue on it to keep in place while working the assembly back into the tank?

I've bought the Bosch in this write up and it looks like it'll fit after I grind the top metal ring a little more round. The strainer screen I mentioned loosely fits on the Bosch pump, and not all the way. I think I'll take the pump to auto parts store and try to find better fitting screen. Does the screen/strainer rest on the tank bottom? Does that help keep it in place?

Great write up and should prove very helpful this weekend. I especially appreciate the pics. What keeps the fuel screen from sliding off? Or do I have the wrong one? Airtex FS104

Thanks, I'll return the Carter and get a Bosch. BTW, the Autozone link product indicated it would fit the Comanche, not surprised to find another error in my Jeep shopping experience. I find it quite amazing that many many auto parts sites list the Delphi assembly as a direct fit for a 1992 Comanche 4.0.

Ok, so I've bought a Carter pump, P74155. Sigh, naturally it doesn't fit the existing hanger assembly. The rubber mounting rings are crumbling; the new rings don't fit snugly in the assembly. Should I replace the entire assembly and pump? Delphi unit? http://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/fuel-tank-sending-unit/delphi-fuel-tank-sending-unit/jeep/comanche-4wd/1992/6-cylinders-s-4-0l-mfi/342630_923754_0/

I'm fairly certain I've found the problem. The 3 inch hose from the fuel pump is crumbling, and wasn't tight on the metal fuel line. Clearly this would allow fuel to drain back into the tank and result in very little or no pressure at the rail. The pump itself seems to run fine, but I'll probably replace the entire unit now that the tank has been removed. The fuel strainer was loose and rattling around in the bottom of the tank.

I thought I had it. Replaced the fuel pressure regulator and it started, after a minute I stopped it. Then it wouldn't start. I disconnected the fuel filter and cranked it, lots of fuel getting pumped on the ground so it seems the pump works well. I don't see any leaks of fuel. If I prime it, and cut it off, I can hear fuel returning to tank. Others have said "check valve", is that part of the fuel pump?

So I'll look for a fuel leak, although I haven't smelled any gas. I'm assuming a pressure leak in the fuel system would leak fuel, unless it's the pump which would leak into the tank and not be noticeable. Thanks Comanche Club for the ideas, gladly accepted by this novice mechanic. (standard disclaimer... Dad borrowing son's Comanche Club account, while charged with running the Comanche every few weeks while son is out of state)

I installed a new fuel filter. I swapped the auto shutdown and starter relays. I got it started again, idled for a minute or so, then it cut off. Immediately checked fuel valve and very little pressure. My local Advance doesn't have pressure testers so will try to get to AutoZone.

The 13 Map code went away with the reset. It probably existed when I disconnected the MAP vacuum line last week when I got it started. I'll do the fuel filter.

I'm still trying to start the engine and figure this out. After a lengthy cranking, I immediately checked the fuel rail valve and there was no pressure. (I've yet to get a gauge to check the actual value). I do hear a brief pump sound when turning the key on. I swapped fuel pump relay with another, seems to be ok. I removed the fuel regulator and reinstalled, how is it checked? Is the fuel regulator the last picture? I found the fuel filter and it appears old? See picture. Then I noticed a hose hanging down, which comes from the top of the fuel tank. There are numerous metal fuel lines, one appears to have a broken hose piece, is this related to the broken hose hanging from the top of the tank?

I cleared the codes yet the only code now not shown is the "13 MAP". I checked and cleaned most grounds, although I couldn't remove the firewall bolt. It felt like the firewall was going to bend before the bolt would turn. I was able to start it after a lengthy cranking session, and it idled nicely for a few minutes. I was able to rev up to 2500 briefly then it stalled and couldn't be started again. When turning the key to check the codes I can hear a brief hum behind and below, fuel pump? I've got some Seafoam, where does it go? More later......

Does the fuel pressure test need to be done with a special tool or can any pressure guage work (knowing it might get fuel in it and be damaged)? Got these codes: 12 <<< new battery installed months ago. Battery disconnected. 13 <<< this appeared after I disconnected MAP vacuum hose while engine running, causing it to stall. MAP Sensor. 33 Air conditioning clutch relay. 35 Cooling fan relay. 36 Air switch solenoid circuit.

Is the fuel rail pressure test only possible with engine running? Or can it be done while attempting to start?