88mjblue

I'm interested to see what you come up with. If you get some from the junkyard, let me know how you plan to attach them, what kind of glue will hold them in place? I have my molding intact, but some are beginning to peel off, has anybody glued theirs back on?

It's actually not a big deal right now in the winter here in colorado, lots of roads are all snow packed, so I've been in 4 hi for the most part. The only problem now is when the snow starts to melt, that's when I like being able to shift in and out depending on the road conditions and what's been plowed.

I had a specialist look at it, they said the problem was that the syncros in the t-case are worn out. He said it will be an expensive repair and would involve essentially rebuilding the transfer case. Other than that, nothing else is wrong with it. So, for the meantime, I will be stopping to shift into 4wd. Just for kicks, what makes a transfer case go bad? Excessive shifting? Too much sharp turning?

I returned the OEM Mopar slush mats I ordered because they didn't fit well. Problems with the driver's side mat: 1) clutch pedal gets caught on the bumps of the mat 2) does not line up well like the above post shows: does not follow contour of tunnel (the mopar mats are made for both xj's and zj's, so that may be why) I thought these would be best because they're oem, but no... I'm going to try those rugged ridge ones after all now, and hopefully they fit better.

^^^ This. Should have done this while I was at it, but I had already ordered the replacement o-ring set and made the repair and everything before I read this... Here are my pancaked o-rings btw, and the kit found here:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYNK58Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 the right sized o-rings for renix oil filter adapters. But again, if you are going to go through the trouble to replace these o rings, you might as well just go and replace the whole adapter with the larger capacity filter.

Thanks for that link, it really helped. I think I might go with these now: http://www.justforjeeps.com/floormatsslush5.html They're cheaper and from what hornbred was saying, they fit better too.

Does anybody know if these will fit comanches properly? I have the bench seat if that changes anything... http://www.ruggedridge.com/all-terrain-front-floor-liners-jeep-logo-84-01-jeep-xj-cherokee.html

Seeing as there are very few comanches to be found in the JYs, I thought I'd post here to see if anybody has a mini console for the tan interior. Mine was trashed and held together with duct tape and wire. I'm looking for one in good condition, with the plastic clips for the shifter bezel still intact. Maybe somebody who upgraded to bucket seats still has their mini console lying around... Here's a pic of my interior:

Perpendicular cross is bad, right? I see hot rods running long stretches of parallel wires all the time...

That sounds like a good idea, I think I'll do that instead.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYNK58Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Has anyone ever purchased this kit? Will this fit my renix mj? I know that on the newer 4.0s, these changed size, but this matches a factory part number, just wondering if anybody has had any experience with this kit.

I have heard that before, but these are OEM looms designed to prevent crossfire. I have another idea: what about getting cut-to-length ignition wires and cutting them as short as possible from distributor to spark plug?

Would you recommend this product for lubricating the mechanical speedometer cable? Mine's a bit wiggly, and I was hopping to kill two birds with one stone with this lube.

On my other 4.0L's I've had these built-in spark plug wire looms (see below). On my new renix MJ, I don't have these and don't see any sign of there ever being any. I know there are aftermarket spark plug wire looms, has anybody had success with them? How do you mount them, to the valve cover bolts? Thanks, I want my wires to be nice and organized.

I'm not sure about that because I let off the accelerator and put in neutral just to be safe. Like I said, I've driven several NP231's for years and never had this problem - I have noticed in the past that the T case usually doesn't like shifting on the fly when under too much power like climbing a hill, so I have always gotten in the habit of shifting not under load. I think you might be on to something with the cable... I checked out the Novak cable here: http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/shifters/sk2xc.htm But it's ~$150 so I think I'll try to look into adjusting my existing shifting mechanism because something must be wrong here. But I like what they're talking about, I always felt the shifting was clunky on these jeep t-cases. Thanks guys, I really wanted to confirm firstly that there wasn't an older version of the NP231 with a different shifting mechanism.

Yeah I do that too sometimes, either way is fine for 4Lo, but it's the 4Hi that I should not have to stop for.

That's what I thought. But when I do shift to 4Hi, it works fine, so does 4Lo. I also need to come to a stop to shift out of 4Lo (can't do the rolling 2-3mph change)

I have an 88 mj with the np231 t case and ba 10/5. Coming from two previous jeeps with the np231 (99TJ, 95 XJ) I always have been able to shift on the fly into 4hi, but with my new mj I can't do this - I need to come to a complete stop in order to shift into 4hi. Is this normal?

In what year were the Jeep keys changed? I saw some cool older AMC/Jeep keys that I wanted to buy, was wondering if these would fit my 88?

I'm looking for new blank keys for my 88 comanche. Are they the RA4 or the RA5 keys? (sometimes listed as B46). I know the door keys are the RA3 type, but I have read conflicting info on the square ignition key. Some say RA4 is compatible through 86, some say only through 84 (but they still list an "84 comanche"). If it works on an 86 comanche, wouldn't it work on an 88? I know in 91 they changed cylinders and adopted the one-key system, but I don't know of any other changes since the first 86 comanches.