88mjblue

Manual. What other sensor is there for auto? I already removed the unplugged TPS thing for auto that is by the throttle body.

Back by the firewall. CPS is connected. Coolant temp for gauge is connected Intake temp is connected. What else is back there?

So here's what's been done: - x2 new idler pulleys (no a/c) - new water pump - PS fluid - new fan clutch - new serpentine belt So this leaves: - harmonic balancer - alternator Did I miss something? Btw, the repairs made above did not affect the sound, stayed the same before and after those new parts were put on.

Update: I had some time tonight to work on the mj, here is the result: Belt off = sound gone Belt on = sound present I don't think it's the PS pump - fluid is topped off and is clean, steering seems fine. I did try to pinpoint the sound a bit better, and it sounds like it's coming from the alternator - is that possible for an alternator to sound like that??? I don't have any charging issues, my battery reads 14 V when engine is on. (but then again, I don't have any high powered accessories, all stock here) I tried the screwdriver method, but was afraid I might get electrocuted touching the alternator to my ear, is that safe to do? Any tips? -Thanks.

Here's where my idle is at now: (I'm assuming this is 500rpm, hard to tell with this scale skipping) A little background: In an attempt to correct my hunting idle, I did the following: - completely removed and thoroughly cleaned throttle body - adjusted butterfly stop screw - removed, cleaned, & re-installed IAC (Q: Is there meant to be a gasket - in addition to the o-ring??) - cleaned mating surfaces and installed new throttle body gasket - adjusted TPS according to Cruiser's tip for engine TPS adjustment (0.83 Volts) Interesting part is when I first start it up, it goes to (what I think is normal) 750 rpm idle, and stays there for a while. Then after driving it a bit, it goes down to the ~500 mark. The idle is still hunting around, acting the same as before these adjustments, but just at a lower rpm.

Waiting for a 89/90 to show up at the junkyard, but I did some reading on the internets and read somewhere that the manual transmission ECU's have a slightly faster timing advance curve, is that true? That the ignition curves come in faster (no additional total timing) For auto trans, it needs to compensate for stall speed - it lets the rpms climb a bit more. I'm not sure what this all means, but has anyone compared auto/manual ECU's on manual transmission?

Does the tachometer's 0-1000 increments go from 0-500, 500-750, 750-1000? It's weird because it's missing the 0-250 like the other 1000s... I'm assuming its scaled properly from 500-1000, but then the 0-500 is compressed for some reason.

Thanks, I kind of freaked out a bit when I got to this stage and realized the wires weren't matching up: I know Cruiser specifically says to go one-by-one to prevent this, but I was originally trying to do this: http://comancheclub.com/topic/43187-addendum-to-cruzer54s-c101-elimination-deletes-connectors-but-retains-connector-housing-for-orginal-look/ and after checking about 10 wires in a row all matched up before I cut, I decided it was going to be easier to cut them all out first and then solder them up back into the connector. But, that plan failed because my C101 was so "tarred-up" and I didn't have the tools to properly hollow out the connector. In the end it was for the better because I got rid of the x3 auto trans TPS wires (and that mystery wire) and knew exactly which wires I was connecting and where they all came from throughout the engine compartment.

I tried looking this up but found more info on this relating to the AW4, where idle rpm can vary depending on if it's in drive/park/neutral. So what is the normal factory idle, at operating temperature/closed loop, stopped, manual transmission, neutral, no accessories/loads, Renix 4.0L?

I was forced to learn a few things in the process :). Overall, a great learning experience for me. I learned a lot about the wiring of the engine, as well as soldering, and using the multimeter. I'm still curious about that one wire though, I just taped it up and tucked it away.

Thanks, I got everything sorted out - I took the ECU down and checked the wires with my DMM on continuity, sorted out which tan wire was the fuel injector, then back tracked the tan wire that came from the #3 fuel injector. The other was the coolant temp sensor. Fired right up and running fine! One thing I did find was that the mysterious blue with white tracer wire was NOT the ac clutch relay, but instead came from D6 of the ECU, which is blank as you can see from Cruiser's picture I posted earlier... What do you make of that? Final product:

So I found this: What is the method for testing wires? I haven't done much electrical work, I do have a digital multimeter, but can't figure out how to do this...

Update: I have narrowed it down to 2 wires that I need to differentiate between. Both tan wires, one is the #3 fuel injector, the other is the coolant temp sensor. How can I tell which one is which that comes out of the ECU? Also, I have a remaining wire coming out of the firewall side that doesn't have a wire to connect to. It is blue with a white tracer, what could that be? Edit: According to a wiring diagram I have, that blue + tracer wire could be the "A/C Clutch relay" - and since I don't have AC, that could explain this last missing wire. Does that sound familiar to anyone who has ac, something going through the c101 connector for a/c? I checked the electrical manual, but it shows the ac clutch relay going through c104...

Ok, I'll take a look at that, do you know if it has a color legend? I'm so close, just a few wires that don't line up. Update: I removed 3 wires that went to an unplugged connection (for auto transmission) and just removed that, so I don't have to worry about those wires. That's okay to do, right?

So I lost track of the wires while doing Cruiser's c101 delete... and now there are some wires that don't match up. How do I check this? Are all years the same color scheme? Does anybody have a picture of the c101 that shows which wire goes where to which color? Also, how many wires/connections should there be? I already did the sensor grounds so that should be 1 less connection, right? Help! How would I check if I made all the right connections?

Yep, I've made my decision on the hydraulic line (unless somebody can convince me otherwise) and go with the direct replacement, it just seems easier. It has all the right fittings, has the hard steel lines with soft line in-between to allow for movement, and the turn it makes heading back to the slave cylinder, with high pressure crimped connections. It's a direct replacement for the Peugeot internal slave. It's Dorman H38935 if anyone's wondering and reading this later for reference. Cheapest I found was $21 shipped on eBay (new). NAPA has some good pictures and info: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Clutch-Hose/_/R-UBK38935_0480684306 I would like to do the braided stainless steel option that mjeff87 suggested, but I can't argue with the price and ease of this one. That, and the AX-15 swap I plan to do when my ba 10/5 dies, so don't really want to put too much money into it.

I see the Wearever hydraulic hose you're talking about, I might just go with that to make it easier, plug n play. That LUK MC is going for $32 shipped on eBay btw.

Any update on this? Does anybody have part #'s for a braided line and the fittings to go with? (I'm also working with an internal slave here)

I'm in the same boat, putting this repair off for a while now... I found this LUK MC: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/luk-automotive-systems-master-cylinder-lmc205/10649087-P?searchTerm=clutch+master+cylinder Is it good?

Sub'd. I too would like to know who makes a good clutch master cylinder, and that line to the slave. For 87-90 (if they're different from the external slave transmissions)

I had a similar problem when I replaced my radiator. I ended up having to cut the nut from the bolt, and then went to the junkyard to get a "new" isolator. Your idea would work, but it will be an annoyance in the future.

Wow, great videos! Thanks so much for sharing these! As a surfer, I loved the surfing, as a cinematographer, I loved the cinematography, and of course as an mj owner, I loved the mj – very clean. Does this guy have a build thread here on comanche club??

Yes, I would check the CPS too as others have said, but I would also check your fuel injectors. If they are leaking, then it will make it hard/impossible to start after you have reached operating temperature (at Lowe's) since there's too much fuel to ignite. After waiting for that extra fuel to evaporate, that's why you can then start right up and it runs normal. What's your gas mileage like?

Thanks for this reply, really good stuff. I will try the belt removal and see if the sound goes away then. What should I check for when removing the valve cover?

The sound doesn't change in terms of quality when the clutch is depressed or when driving/under load, but it does get rhythmically faster with increasing rpm. Does that change anything, or give anybody a clue to what it could be?